Editing Multi-pitch climbing

{{Short description|Type of climbing}}
[[File:Matteo Della Bordella Non è un paese per vecchi.jpg|thumb|{{ill|Matteo Della Bordella|it}} on [[pitch (climbing)|pitch]] two of ''Non è un paese per vecchi'' (430-metres, 9-[[Pitch (climbing)|pitches]], [[Grade (climbing)#French numerical grade|7c+]] max/ [[Grade (climbing)#French numerical grade|7b+]] obj), in Linescio, Switzerland.]]
{{Climbing sidebar}}
'''Multi-pitch climbing''' is a type of [[climbing]] that typically takes place on [[climbing routes|routes]] that are more than a single rope length (circa 50 to 70 metres) in height (or distance), and thus where the [[lead climber]] cannot complete the climb as a single [[pitch (climbing)|pitch]].  Where the number of pitches exceeds 6–10 (300–500 metres), it can become [[big wall climbing]], or where the pitches are in a mixed rock and ice mountain environment, it can become [[alpine climbing]]. Multi-pitch rock climbs can come in [[traditional climbing|traditional]], [[sport climbing|sport]], and [[aid climbing|aid]] formats. Some have [[free solo]]ed multi-pitch routes.

Multi-pitch climbing is more complex and riskier than single-pitch climbing as the climbers will remain exposed on the route (e.g. a [[rock climbing]] route, an [[ice climbing]],  or a [[mixed climbing]] route) for longer, and it will often involve the use of [[hanging belay]]s, long [[abseil]]s, and the creation of [[belay anchor]]s. Rescues from multi-pitch climbs are far more serious, and climbers will use additional protection to avoid this.  Multi-pitch climbing requires greater communication between climbers; advanced climbers can use the riskier—but faster— [[simul climbing]].

==Description==
{{See also|Lead climbing#Multi-pitch leading}}
[[File:Nachstieg Zeichnung.jpg|thumb|upright=0.5|left|Leader (top) belaying the second (below), an aspect of multi-pitch climbs]]
Multi-pitch [[lead climbing]] involves ascending [[climbing routes]] that cannot be completed in a single [[pitch (climbing)|pitch]] (which is typically a rope-length), usually due to their height but also due to routes that move in unusual directions (e.g. routes with a lot of [[Traverse (climbing)|traversing]]).  Multi-pitch routes are most commonly [[traditional climbing]] routes (i.e. the leader inserts the [[climbing protection]] as they ascend), but there are also multi-pitch [[sport climbing]]  routes (i.e. the climbing protection is pre-[[bolt (climbing)|bolted]] into the route, or at least where important belay anchors are pre-bolted such as on [[El Capitan]] in Yosemite).<ref name=FOH/><ref name=HTRC13>{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=[[Globe Pequot Press|Falcon Guides]] | date=August 2022|pages=335–369 | chapter=Chapter 13: Multi-pitch climbing}}</ref>

Multi-pitch climbs are usually done in teams of pairs, and the position of leader can alternate between pitches or after a group of pitches (called "block leading") as long as both climbers have the skill and competence to lead on the route. Alternatively, one climber can lead all of the pitches while the other climber constantly belays them, and is then belayed themselves from the top by the lead climber on each pitch (see image left).  Where both climbers are very comfortable on the terrain and want to move quickly, they can use [[simul climbing]], although this is a more complex and riskier technique.

In addition to climbing in pairs, multi-pitch climbs can be done as [[solo climbing|solo climbs]], either as [[free solo climbing]] (i.e. no protection used), or as [[rope solo climbing]] (i.e. a self-belaying system used).<ref name=FOH/><ref name=HTRC13/>

The boundary between multi-pitch climbing and [[big wall climbing]] or [[alpine climbing]] is not defined. Generally, multi-pitch routes that are ''at least'' 6–10 pitches or 300–500 metres in length, and mostly require [[hanging belay]]s (i.e. due to the sheer nature of the route) are considered "big wall routes". Long multi-pitch climbs on mountains whose route is not continually on a sheer "big wall" face, are sometimes referred to as alpine rock climbing. [[Ice climbing]] and [[mixed climbing]] can also be done as multi-pitch climbing, or as part of an alpine climbing route.<ref name=FOH/><ref name=HTRC13/>

==Equipment==
{{see also|Rock-climbing equipment}}
[[File:Oberreintalturm.jpg|thumb|[[Topo (climbing)|Topo]] of the famous 320-metre multi-pitch climbing route, ''Brych'' ([[Grade (climbing)#UIAA|VI+]], 9-pitches), in Germany.<ref>{{cite web | website=theCrag| url=https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/germany/oberbayern/route/3746338050 | title=Brych VI+ | date=2023 | accessdate=18 November 2023}}</ref>]]
Multi-pitch climbing requires all the equipment used in leading a single-pitch [[Sport climbing#Equipment|sport]], [[Traditional climbing#Equipment|traditional]] or [[ice climbing#Equipment|ice]] climbing route, but with a few specific additions:<ref name=FOH/><ref name=VDIFF/>

* Extra [[belaying]] equipment. Multi-pitch climbers need additional [[sling (climbing)|slings]], [[cord (climbing)|cord]], and [[Screw-gate carabiner|screwgate carabiners]] to create strong and secure belay anchors at the end of each pitch.  In addition, belaying from above usually requires additional self-locking devices (e.g. [[grigri]]s). For longer multi-pitch routes (i.e. closer to big wall climbing), [[ascender (climbing)|ascender]]s might be used by the second climber to speed progression.<ref name=FOH/><ref name=VDIFF/>
* [[Descender (climbing)|Abseiling equipment]]. Even where the multi-pitch climbers can exit upon completing the climb via a walking trail (versus having to abseil back down), the risk of a forced retreat during the climb means that sufficient equipment for safe abseiling is also always carried; this means having several abseil devices (e.g. the [[Figure 8 (climbing)|figure 8]]), additional [[Prusik knot|prusik cords]], and also extra coils of rope as a basic requirement.<ref name=FOH/><ref name=VDIFF/>
* [[Rock-climbing equipment#Clothing equipment|Protective clothing]]. A forced abseil retreat on a multi-pitch climb can be risky, however, abseiling an injured climber on a multi-pitch route is an even more serious undertaking.  Multi-pitch climbers will therefore tend to take additional precautions that they might not use on single-pitch routes such as wearing [[Climbing helmet|helmet]]s and [[Rock climbing equipment#Belay gloves|belay gloves]] or fingerless climbing gloves, to minimize the risk of retreat from any form of injury.  They will also bring additional food and water provisions and all-weather clothing as well.<ref name=FOH/><ref name=VDIFF/>

==Techniques==
[[File:Pou Anaiak el niño 8b - panoramio.jpg|thumb|Lead climber and Belayer (in a [[hanging belay]] position) on the multi-pitch ''El Niño'' {{climbing grade|8b}}, [[El Capitan]]]]
While many of the techniques of single-pitch lead climbing are common to multi-pitch climbing, there are specific techniques that are important to be able to execute well to safely ascend a multi-pitch climbing route:<ref name=FOH>{{cite book | date=October 2010 | title=[[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]] | edition=8th | isbn=978-1594851384 | publisher=Quiller Publishing | editor=Ronald C. Eng | chapter=Chapter 12: Leading in Rock | pages=255–276}}</ref><ref name=VDIFF>{{cite book | title=Sport Climbing Basics: Single and Multi-Pitch Bolted Routes | isbn=978-1796923278 | date=June 2019 | first=Neil | last=Chelton | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/sport-multipitch/ | accessdate=23 August 2023 | chapter=Summary Extract| publisher=Independently Published }}</ref>

* [[Belay anchor]]s.  A key technique in multi-pitch climbing is the ability to create very robust belay anchors that can hold the strong downward and upward forces a belayer can experience on a multi-pitch route in any climber fall.  Some of these anchors may also need to be used later as [[abseil]] points in the event of a retreat or after summiting the route.<ref name=VDIFF/><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/master-the-quad-anchor/ | title=Master the Ultimate Multi-Pitch Anchor: The Quadalette | date=15 March 2022 | first2=Rob |last2=Coppoillo | first1=Marc | last1=Chauvins | accessdate=23 August 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/a-simpler-multi-pitch-anchors/ | title=A Simpler Way to Rig Multi-Pitch Anchors | date=13 January 2022 | first=Derek |last=Debruin | accessdate=23 August 2023}}</ref>    Popular multi-pitch routes can have permanent bolted belay anchors.<ref>{{cite web | website=[[British Mountaineering Council]] | url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/5-adventurous-multipitch-sport-crags-europe | date=4 April 2016 | accessdate=23 August 2023 | first=Sarah | last=Sterling | title=Five of the best adventurous multi-pitch sport crags in Europe}}</ref>
* [[Hanging belay]]s and belaying from above.  Some multi-pitch climbs will have belay points that have no ledge to stand on, and thus the belayer will be hanging from the rock face from the belay anchor.  In addition, belaying from above a climber can involve additional belay equipment (such as a [[grigri]]) and techniques to avoid forces being applied directly to the belayer's harness in the event of a climber fall.<ref name=VDIFF/><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/weekend-whipper-how-to-take-big-falls-multi-pitch/ | title=Weekend Whipper: 5.14 Multi-pitch route Never Looked So Uncomfortable | date=6 May 2022 | author=Climbing Desk | accessdate=23 August 2023}}</ref>
* Changing leads. Multi-pitch climbers sometimes need to be able to switch roles efficiently at the end of each pitch.  Where the pair alternate leads, the second climber can continue past the belay to lead the next pitch (e.g., the belayer keeps belaying).  However, where they need to swap roles at the belay anchor, there are a number of techniques required to ensure that the changeover is done safely and efficiently.<ref name=VDIFF/><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-multi-pitch-climb-efficiently/ | title=7 Tricks for Speedy Swaps at Multi-pitch Belays | date=20 May 2022 | first=Sarah | last=Garlick | accessdate=23 August 2023}}</ref>
* [[Communication]].  Because of the greater distances between climbers (the individual pitches of multi-pitch routes are often typically a full rope-length), and the need for the lead climber to have the time to set up a strong belay anchor, it is important that the pair understand the signals and commands that indicate when such tasks have been completed and the lead climber is ready to belay.<ref name=VDIFF/><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/10-tips-for-better-multi-pitch-rock-climbing/ | title=10 Tips for Better Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing | date=13 April 2023 | accessdate=23 August 2023 | first=Aaron | last=Pardy}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | title=Avoid Accidents With Better Multi-pitch Communication | date=23 August 2023 | accessdate=17 January 2023 | first=Kevin | last=Corrigan | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/effective-multipitch-communication/}}</ref>
* [[Fall factor]] management.  Multi-pitch climbers need to avoid the lead climber falling with no climbing protection in situ, so that they fall all the way down to the belayer and then the same distance again below the belayer.  Such a fall has a fall-factor of 2 and will create significant strains on both the belay anchors and the belayer. To avoid this, the lead will clip into protection just above the belay anchor.<ref name=VDIFF/><ref name="bmc">{{cite web|title=Top tips for your first multi-pitch adventure|url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/top-tips-for-your-first-multipitch-adventure|website=[[British Mountaineering Council]]|accessdate=23 August 2023 | first=Will | last=Harris | date=July 2014}}</ref>
* Rope management. Once the lead climber creates the new belay anchor to belay their partner below, they need to [[Glossary of climbing terms#take|take in]] the slack rope until there is a taut line between the pair.  As they will often be standing on a small platform (or even no platform in a hanging belay), they need to ensure that the rope they pull up does not get caught up equipment or get tangled, and will therefore use some manner of coiling technique.<ref name=VDIFF/><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | title=Streamline Your Next Multi-pitch With These Rope-management Tips | date=23 August 2023 | accessdate=13 January 2023 | first=Julie| last=Ellison| url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-manage-rope-multi-pitch-climbs/#_pay-wall}}</ref>
* Time and retreat management.  Retreat from a multi-pitch climb can be difficult, and at a minimum will require [[abseil]]s which are in themselves a risk factor.  Mult-pitch climbers, therefore, need to be aware of their time-keeping, and the specific points at which retreat becomes more difficult, and/or where abseil points are less plentiful (some popular multi-pitch routes have [[bolt (climbing)|bolted]] belay anchors that double as abseil points).<ref name=VDIFF/>

==Competition multi-pitch climbing==
In October 2022, the first [[competition climbing]] event in a multi-pitch format was hosted on an artificial [[climbing wall]] built on the [[Verzasca Dam]] in Switzerland as the 'Red Bull Dual Ascent'. Teams of climbing pairs faced off in head-to-head contests on identical side-by-side 6-pitch {{Convert|180|m|ft|adj=on}} routes, with the winning team finishing the route in the fastest time.  Unlimited falls were allowed as long as the lead climber returned to the base of the pitch (or penalty points were accepted instead).  The first event was won by [[Alberto Ginés López]] and [[Luka Potočar]].<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/competition/red-bull-dual-ascent/ | title=Yep: There was a 600-foot Multipitch Race up a Swiss Dam | first=Delaney | last=Miller | date=2 November 2022 | accessdate=9 March 2024}}</ref> The October 2023 event was held in a mixed team format, with [[Jernej Kruder]] and his sister Julija Kruder taking first prize.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/red-bull-dual-ascent-2023-event-recap/ | title=Red Bull's Dual Ascent—Equal Parts Impressive and Absurd—Returns for Second Year | first=Hannah | last=Mitchell | date=29 November 2022 | accessdate=9 March 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/news/brother-and-sister-win-epic-multi-pitch-red-bull-climbing-comp/ | date=9 November 2023 | accessdate=9 March 2023 | title=Brother and Sister Win Epic Multi-Pitch Red Bull Climbing Comp}}</ref>

==Grading==
[[File:Josune Bereziartu 2012.jpg|thumb|[[Josune Bereziartu]] on the multi-pitch sport climb ''Yeah Man'' [[Grade (climbing)#French numerical grade|8b+]] (300-metres, 9-pitches: 7a, 7b+, 7b+, 7c, 8a+, 8a/+, 8a, 8b+, 7a), north face of Grand Pfad, Switzerland.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/josune-bereziartu-and-rikar-otegi-made-the-first-free-ascent-of-yeah-man.html | title=Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi made the first free ascent of "Yeah man" | date=11 August 2004 | accessdate=23 August 2023}}</ref>]] 
Multi-pitch climbing routes are generally graded in the same way as their equivalent single-pitch [[Sport climbing#Grading|sport route grading]], [[Traditional climbing#Grading|traditional route grading]], or [[Ice climbing#Grading|ice route grading]] routes.  Each pitch on a multi-pitch route will be separately graded so that, for example, a 3-pitch multi-sport climbing route might be graded as [[Grade (climbing)#French numerical grade|French sport]]: 7c, 7b, 8a; or a 5-pitch multi-traditional climbing route might be graded as [[Grade (climbing)#American YDS grade|American YDS]]: 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10a, 5.11c, 5.9. Harder or easier options on individual pitches will also be highlighted and separately graded, so that, for example, a pitch might be graded as [[Grade (climbing)#French numerical grade|French sport]]: 7c "avoidable" or "max" (you don't have to do the 7c part) / 7a "obligatory" or "obj" (you will have to do at least 7a graded climbing).<ref name=BK3/>

Sometimes an "overall" grade is quoted for a multi-pitch route (in addition to the grades of individual pitches), however, this is usually the grade of the hardest pitch on the route (e.g. see ''Yeah Man'' image opposite).<ref name=BK3/>

In common with [[Big wall climbing#Grading|big wall grading]], where there are very difficult sections of individual pitches that are well above the general level of difficulty of the overall route (i.e. a common feature of bigger walls as it is harder to find big routes of a consistent difficulty level), an [[aid climbing]] option might be highlighted, which will have an attached [[Aid climbing#Grading|aid climbing grade]], for example, an individual pitch on a multi-traditional climbing route might be graded as: 5.10a (with no aid) or 5.7 A2 (with aid), and the type of aid needed also explained.<ref name=BK3>{{cite book | title=Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique  | date=2005 | publisher=Mountaineers Books | edition=1st | isbn=978-0898867480 | first=Jared| last=Ogden | chapter=Chapter 2: Big Wall Climbing Procedures, Grades & Ratings| pages=56–60}}</ref>

==In film==
A number of notable films have been made focused on multi-pitch (and big wall climbing) including:<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]] | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/culture/books-media/best-climbing-mountaineering-films-of-all-time/?scope=anon | title=The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time | first=Andrew | last=Bisharat | date=6 September 2022 | accessdate=28 September 2023}}</ref> 
*[[El Capitan (film)|''El Capitan'']], a 1978 documentary film about an early ascent of ''[[The Nose (El Capitan)|The Nose]]'' (VI 5.9 C2) on [[El Capitan]].
*[[Meru (film)|''Meru'']], a 2015 documentary film about the ascent of a Himalayan big wall route called the ''Shark's Fin'',
*''[[Valley Uprising]]'', a 2014 Amazon Prime documentary film about rock climbing in Yosemite, that includes big wall climbing.
*''[[The Dawn Wall]]'', a 2017 Netflix documentary film about [[Tommy Caldwell]] and [[Kevin Jorgeson]]'s ascent of the [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed|first-ever]] big wall route at {{climbing grade|5.14d}}.
*''[[Free Solo]]'', a 2018 Netflix documentary film about [[Alex Honnold]]'s free solo climb of ''[[Freerider (climb)|Freerider]]'' {{climbing grade|5.13a}} on El Capitan.
* ''[[The Alpinist]]'', a 2021 documentary film about the late Canadian alpinist [[Marc-André Leclerc]], featuring his solo ascent of [[Torre Egger]] in [[Patagonia]]

==See also==
{{commons category}}
*[[Alpine climbing]]
*[[Big wall climbing]]
*[[List of grade milestones in rock climbing]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

===Further reading===
*{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=[[Globe Pequot Press|Falcon Guides]] | date=August 2022|pages=335–369 | chapter=Chapter 13: Multi-pitch climbing}}
*{{cite book | date=2018 | title=[[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]] | edition=9th | isbn=978-1846892622 | publisher=Quiller Publishing | author=[[The Mountaineers (club)|The Mountaineers]]}}
*{{cite book | date=May 2019| title=Climbing: From Single Pitch to Multipitch | edition=Illustrated| isbn= 978-1493027668 | publisher=[[Falcon Guides]] | author= Ron Funderburke}}

==External links==
*[https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/sport-multipitch/ Multi-Pitch Sport Climbing], by Neil Chelton of ''VDiff Climbing'' (2023)
*[https://www.99boulders.com/multi-pitch-climbing Multi-pitch Climbing 101: The Complete Guide], by Willis Kuelthau of ''99Boulders'' (2021)

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