Editing Nanda Devi

{{short description|Second-highest mountain in India}}
{{about|the main western summit|its twin summit to the east|Nanda Devi East}}
{{Use British English|date=October 2013}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2025}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Nanda Devi
| native_name = 
| photo = Mt. Nanda Devi.jpg
| elevation_m = 7817
| elevation_ref = <ref name="peaklist">{{cite web|url=http://peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/karakoram.html|title=High Asia I: The Karakoram, Pakistan Himalaya and India Himalaya (north of Nepal)|publisher  = Peaklist.org|access-date=2014-05-28}}</ref><br /><small>[[list of highest mountains|Ranked 23rd]]</small>
| prominence_m = 3139
| prominence_ref = <ref name="peaklist"/><br />{{small|[[list of peaks by prominence|Ranked 74th]]}}
| map_caption = Location in India
| map_size = 260
| map_image = {{OSM Himalaya|lat_d=30.4|long_d=80.0|zoom=7}}
| label_position = right
| listing = [[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]] <br/> [[List of Indian states and territories by highest point]]
| location = [[Chamoli]], [[Uttarakhand]], India
| range = [[Garhwal Himalaya]]
| coordinates = {{coord|30|22|33|N|79|58|15|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = <ref name="peaklist"/><ref name="him_index_latlong">The [http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ Himalayan Index] gives the coordinates of Nanda Devi as {{coord|30|22|12|N|79|58|12|E|type:mountain}}.</ref>
| topo = 
| type = 
| age = 
| first_ascent = 29 August 1936 by [[Noel Odell]] and [[Bill Tilman]]<ref name="world_mountaineering">[[Harish Kapadia]], "Nanda Devi", in ''World Mountaineering'', Audrey Salkeld, editor, Bulfinch Press, 1998, {{ISBN|0-8212-2502-2}}, pp. 254–257.</ref><ref name="him_alpine_style">Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, ''Himalaya Alpine-Style'', Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, {{ISBN|0-340-64931-3}}.</ref>
| easiest_route = south ridge: technical rock/snow/ice climb
}}

'''Nanda Devi''' is the second-highest mountain in India, after [[Kangchenjunga]], and the highest located entirely within the country. (Kangchenjunga is on the border of India and [[Nepal]].<ref name=britannica-kangchenjunga>{{citation|chapter=Kanchenjunga|title=Encyclopedia Britannica|date= 17 April 2023|url=https://www.britannica.com/place/Kanchenjunga|access-date= 13 May 2023|quote=Kanchenjunga, also spelled Kangchenjunga or Kinchinjunga, Nepali Kumbhkaran Lungur, world’s third highest mountain, with an elevation of 28,169 feet (8,586 metres). It is situated in the eastern Himalayas on the border between Sikkim state, northeastern India, and eastern Nepal, 46 miles (74 km) north-northwest of Darjiling}}</ref>) Nanda Devi is the [[List of highest mountains|23rd-highest]] peak in the world and ranked 74th by [[List of peaks by prominence|prominence]] 
.

Nanda Devi was considered [[List of past presumed highest mountains|the highest mountain in the world]] before computations in 1808 proved [[Dhaulagiri]] to be higher. It was also the highest mountain in India until 1975, when [[Sikkim]], an [[Kingdom of Sikkim|independent kingdom]] until 1948 and a protectorate of India thereafter, became a [[States and union territories of India|state of India]]. It is located in the [[Chamoli district|Chamoli]] district of [[Uttarakhand]], between the [[Rishiganga]] valley on the west and the [[Gori Ganga|Goriganga]] valley on the east.

The peak, whose name means "Bliss-Giving Goddess",<ref name="him_alpine_style"/> is regarded as the patron goddess of the [[Garhwal Himalaya|Garhwal]] and [[Kumaon Division|Kumaon]] Himalayas. In acknowledgment of its religious significance and for the protection of its fragile ecosystem, the Government of India declared the peak as well as the circle of high mountains surrounding it—the Nanda Devi sanctuary—off-limits to both locals and climbers in 1983. The surrounding [[Nanda Devi National Park]] was declared a [[UNESCO World Heritage Site]] in 1988.

==Description and notable features==
Nanda Devi is a [[two-peaked]] [[massif]], forming a {{Convert|2|km|mi|1|adj=mid|-long}} high ridge, oriented east–west. The western summit is higher than the eastern summit, which is called [[Nanda Devi East]], (locally known as ''Sunanda Devi''). The main summit stands guarded by a barrier ring comprising some of the highest mountains in the Indian Himalayas, twelve of which exceed {{convert|6400|m}} in height, further elevating its sacred status as the daughter of the Himalaya in Indian folklore. The interior of this almost insurmountable ring is known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, and is protected as the [[Nanda Devi National Park]]. Nanda Devi East lies on the eastern edge of the ring (and of the park), at the border of [[Chamoli]], [[Pithoragarh]] and [[Bageshwar]] districts in India's [[Uttarakhand]] state.

In addition to being the [[List of highest mountains|23rd highest mountain in the world]], Nanda Devi is also notable for its large, steep rise above local terrain. It rises over {{Convert|3300|m|ft|-2}} above its immediate southwestern base on the [[Dakkhini Nanda Devi Glacier|Dakshini Nanda Devi Glacier]] in about {{Convert|4.2|km|mi|1}}, and its rise above the glaciers to the north is similar. This makes it among the steepest peaks in the world at this scale, closely comparable, for example, to the local profile of [[K2]], in Pakistan. Nanda Devi is also impressive when considering terrain that is a bit further away, as it is surrounded by relatively deep valleys. For example, it rises over {{Convert|6500|m|ft|-2}} above the valley of the Goriganga in only {{Convert|50|km|mi|-1|abbr=on}}.<ref name="kumaoun-himalaya-ost">''Kumaoun''
-Himalaya-Ost'', 1:150,000 scale topographic map, prepared in 1992 by Ernst Huber for the [[Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research]], based on maps of the [[Survey of India]].''</ref>

On the northern side of the massif lies the [[Uttari Nanda Devi Glacier]], flowing into the Uttari Rishi Glacier. To the southwest, one finds the Dakkhini Nanda Devi Glacier, flowing into the Dakkhini Rishi Glacier. All of these glaciers are located within the Sanctuary, and drain west into the Rishiganga. To the east lies the Pachu Glacier, and to the southeast lie the Nandaghunti and Lawan Glaciers, feeding the Lawan Gad; all of these drain into the Milam Valley. To the south is the Pindari Glacier, draining into the Pindar River. Just to the south of Sunanda Devi, dividing the Lawan Gad drainage from the Dakkhini Nanda Devi Glacier, is Longstaff [[Mountain pass|Col]], {{Convert|5910|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}, one of the high passes that guard access to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.<ref name="garhwal-himalaya-ost">''Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost'', 1:150,000 scale topographic map, prepared in 1992 by Ernst Huber for the [[Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research]], based on maps of the [[Survey of India]].</ref> For a list of notable peaks of the Sanctuary and its environs, see [[Nanda Devi National Park]].

==Exploration and climbing history==
{{main|Shipton–Tilman Nanda Devi expeditions}}
[[Image:Nanda-region-map-annotated.jpg|thumb|right|Shaded contour map of Nanda Devi region|276x276px]]
The ascent of Nanda Devi necessitated fifty years of arduous exploration in search of a passage into the Sanctuary. The outlet is the Rishi Gorge, a deep, narrow canyon which is very difficult to traverse safely, and is the biggest hindrance to entering the Sanctuary; any other route involves difficult [[mountain pass|passes]], the lowest of which is {{Convert|5180|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}. [[Hugh Ruttledge]] attempted to reach the peak three times in the 1930s and failed each time. In a letter to ''[[The Times]]'' he wrote that 'Nanda Devi imposes on her votaries an admission test as yet beyond their skill and endurance', adding that gaining entry to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary alone was more difficult than reaching the [[North Pole]].[http://books.guardian.co.uk/reviews/travel/0,6121,1201876,00.html]
In 1934, the British explorers [[Eric Shipton]] and [[Bill Tilman|H. W. Tilman]], with three [[Sherpa people|Sherpa]] companions, [[Angtharkay]], Pasang and Kusang, finally [[Shipton–Tilman Nanda Devi expeditions|discovered a way through the Rishi Gorge into the Sanctuary]].
[[File:Nanda Devi Peak from Ranikhet.jpg|thumb|355x355px|Nanda Devi (center) with [[Sunanda Devi]] (on the right), Shot from [[Ranikhet]], [[Almora]]]]
When the mountain was later climbed in 1936 by a British-American expedition, it became the [[World altitude record (mountaineering)|highest peak climbed by man]] until the [[1950 French Annapurna expedition|1950 ascent of Annapurna]], {{Convert|8091|m|ft|0}}. (However, higher non-summit elevations had already been reached by the British on [[Mount Everest]] in the 1920s, and it is possible that [[George Mallory]] [[1924 British Mount Everest expedition|reached Everest's summit in 1924]].) It also involved steeper and more sustained terrain than had been previously attempted at such a high altitude.<ref name="him_alpine_style"/> The expedition climbed the south ridge, also known as the Coxcomb Ridge, which leads relatively directly to the main summit.<ref name="world_mountaineering"/> The summit pair were [[Bill Tilman|H. W. Tilman]] and [[Noel Odell]]; [[Charles Snead Houston|Charles Houston]] was to be in place of Tilman, but he contracted severe food poisoning. Noted mountaineer and mountain writer [[H. Adams Carter]] was also on the expedition, which was notable for its small scale and lightweight ethic: it included only seven climbers, and used no [[fixed rope]]s, nor any [[Sherpa people|Sherpa]] support above {{Convert|6200|m|ft|-2|abbr=on}}. Eric Shipton, who was not involved in the climb itself, called it "the finest mountaineering achievement ever performed in the Himalaya."<ref name="him_alpine_style"/>

After abortive attempts by Indian expeditions in 1957 and 1961, the second ascent of Nanda Devi was accomplished by an Indian team led by N. Kumar in 1964, following the Coxcomb route.

===CIA mission===
From 1965 to 1968, attempts were made by the [[Central Intelligence Agency]] (CIA), in co-operation with the [[Intelligence Bureau (India)|Intelligence Bureau]] (IB), to place a nuclear-powered ([[Systems for Nuclear Auxiliary Power|SNAP-19C]] [[Radioisotope thermoelectric generator|RTG]]) telemetry relay listening device on the summit of Nanda Devi.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Desai |first=Shail |date=2017-05-07 |title=1965 Nanda Devi spy mission, the movie |url=https://www.livemint.com/Sundayapp/g1GCx9n5O83AqHI4ClJAZP/1965-Nanda-Devi-spy-mission-the-movie.html |archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20250418110552/https://www.livemint.com/Sundayapp/g1GCx9n5O83AqHI4ClJAZP/1965-Nanda-Devi-spy-mission-the-movie.html |archive-date=2025-04-18 |access-date=2025-05-23 |work=mint |language=en}}</ref><ref name=LiveHistoryIndia>{{cite web |url=https://www.livehistoryindia.com/story/eras/nanda-devi-nuclear-device |title=Nanda Devi's Nuclear Secret and a Botched CIA Operation |author=Ranvijay Singh Hada |date=18 September 2020 |access-date=22 February 2021}}</ref> This device was designed to intercept telemetry signals from missile test launches conducted in the [[Xinjiang]] Province, at a time of relative infancy in [[China's missile program]].<ref>{{cite news|first=Vinod K. |last=Jose |title=River Deep Mountain High |publisher=Caravan Magazine |date=1 December 2010 |access-date=20 May 2013 |url=http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reportage/river-deep-mountain-high}}</ref> The expedition retreated due to dangerous weather conditions, leaving the device near the summit of Nanda Devi. They returned the next spring to search for the device, which ended without success.<ref name=LiveHistoryIndia /> As a result of this activity by the CIA, the Sanctuary was closed to foreign expeditions throughout much of the 1960s. In 1974 the Sanctuary re-opened.

===Subsequent climbs===
[[File:Nanda Devi from Kausani.JPG|thumb|right|The southwest side of Nanda Devi photographed from [[Kausani]]]]
A difficult new route, the northwest buttress, was climbed by a 13-person team in 1976. Three Americans, [[John Roskelley]], Jim States and [[Louis Reichardt]], summited on 1 September. The expedition was co-led by Reichardt, [[H. Adams Carter]] (who was on the 1936 climb,) and [[Willi Unsoeld]], who climbed the West Ridge of Everest in 1963. Unsoeld's daughter, Nanda Devi Unsoeld, who was named after the peak, died on this expedition.<ref name="ndu">J. Roskelley, ''Nanda Devi: The Tragic Expedition'' (The Mountaineers Books, 2000) {{ISBN|0-89886-739-8}}</ref><ref name=AAJ1977>{{cite aaj|title=Nanda Devi from the North|article_id=12197700100|author1=Reichardt, Louis F.|author2=Unsoeld, William F.|year=1977|access-date=2025-01-02}}</ref> She had been suffering from "diarrhea and flare-up of an [[inguinal hernia]], which had shown up originally on the second day of the approach march", and had been at {{convert|7200|m|ft}} for nearly five days.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2013/04/darkness-at-noonthe-life-and-death-of.html|title=Darkness at Noon: The life and death of Nanda Devi Unsoeld |author=Unsoeld, Willie|work=THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL |date=1977}}</ref>

In 1980, the [[Indian Army Corps of Engineers]] made an unsuccessful attempt.{{citation needed|date=January 2025}}

This was followed in 1981 by another Indian Army expedition of the [[Parachute Regiment (India)|Parachute Regiment]], which attempted both main and eastern peaks simultaneously. The expedition had placed a memorial to Nanda Devi Unsoeld at the high altitude meadow of Sarson Patal prior to the attempt. The successful attempt lost all its summiteers.{{citation needed|date=January 2025}}

In 1993, a 40-member team of the Indian Army from the [[Indian Army Corps of Engineers|Corps of Engineers]] was given special permission. The aim of the expedition was multifold: to carry out an ecological survey, clean up the refuse left behind by previous expeditions, and scale the summit. The team led by Lt Col V.K. Bhatt included a number of wildlife scientists and ecologists from [[Wildlife Institute of India]], [[Sálim Ali Centre for Ornithology and Natural History|Salim Ali Centre for Ornithology]] and Natural History, [[World Wide Fund for Nature]] and Govind Ballabh Pant Institute for Himalayan Environment and Development amongst others. The expedition carried out a comprehensive ecological survey and removed from the park, by porter and helicopter, over 1,000 kilogrammes of litter. Additionally, five summiteers reached the summit: Amin Naik, Anand Swaroop, G. K. Sharma, Didar Singh and S. P. Bhatt.<ref name="sanan">Sanan, Deepak (1995) ''Nandadevi – Restoring Glory'' Sapper Adventure Foundation & Wiley Eastern Limited {{ISBN|81-224-0752-8}}</ref>

==Recent history and conservation==
[[File:The folk characters of Latu and Lati during the mask dance festival in lata village, nanda devi national park in indian himalayas.jpg|alt=Mask Dance Festival in Lata village on the periphery of Nanda Devi National Park|thumb|Mask Dance in lata village, the gateway to Nanda Devi National Park]]
After the re-opening of the sanctuary in 1974 to foreign climbers, trekkers and locals, the fragile ecosystem was soon compromised by firewood cutting, littering and grazing. Serious environmental problems were noted as early as 1977, and the sanctuary was closed again in 1983.<ref name="world_mountaineering"/> Currently, Nanda Devi forms the core of the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve (which includes [[Nanda Devi National Park]]), declared by the Indian government in 1982. In 1988, Nanda Devi National Park was declared a UNESCO [[World Heritage Site]], "of outstanding [[cultural heritage|cultural]] or [[natural heritage|natural]] importance to the common heritage of [[humankind]]."<ref name="unesco">[https://whc.unesco.org/pg.cfm?cid=31&id_site=335 Nanda Devi and Valley of Flowers National Parks – UNESCO World Heritage Centre<!-- Bot generated title -->]</ref> The entire sanctuary, and hence the main summit (and interior approaches to the nearby peaks), are off-limits to locals and to climbing expeditions, although a one-time exception was made in 1993 for a 40-member team from the [[Indian Army Corps of Engineers]] to check the state of recovery and to remove garbage left by prior expeditions.<ref name="sanan"/> Sunanda Devi remains open from the east side, leading to the standard south ridge route. After a sustained campaign by the local community as reflected in the Nanda Devi Declaration<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://lib.icimod.org/record/20725/files/c_attachment_18_42.pdf|title=Nanda Devi Bio Diversity Conservation and Ecotourism Declaration|date=14 October 2001|website=icimod.org/|access-date=22 December 2018}}</ref> of 2001, the core zone of the Nanda Devi was opened for limited eco-tourism activity in 2003. In 2006, the campaign invited women trekkers from 4 countries during the inaugural trek inside the National Park. As a follow-up, the Campaign for Cultural Survival and Sustainable Livelihoods has now designed an Interpretive Trek to the Nanda Devi National Park.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.hindustantimes.com/india/nanda-devi-opens-door/story-4r9KOtcbw6tqQ6FNym0H4H.html|title=Nanda Devi opens door|last=Misra|first=Neelesh|date=15 September 2006|work=Hindustan Times|access-date=22 December 2018}}</ref> An Interpretation Centre on Bio Cultural Diversity of the Nanda Devi National Park is under development in the village of Lata, the gateway to the Nanda Devi National Park. A maximum number of 500 trekkers are now allowed to enter the core zone until Dharansi between May and October. The trek to Nanda Devi National Park starts from the village of Lata, located 25 kilometres upstream from the town of Joshimath on Niti-Malari highway.

== 2021 flood ==
{{Main|2021 Uttarakhand flood}}
On 7 February 2021 it was reported that a portion of the Nanda Devi glacier [[2021 Uttarakhand avalanche|broke away]], causing the Dhauliganga and the Rishiganga rivers to flood. One dam at the Dhauliganga hydropower project at [[Rini, Chamoli|Reni village]] was destroyed and another suffered a partial collapse. Initial reports said nine people were dead and 140 missing. Water levels on the Alaknanda also rose.<ref>{{Cite news|agency=PTI|date=2021-02-07|title=Uttarakhand glacier burst brings back memory of 2013 flash floods|language=en-IN|work=The Hindu|url=https://www.thehindu.com/news/national/other-states/uttarakhand-glacier-burst-brings-back-memory-of-2013-flash-floods/article33775009.ece|access-date=2021-02-08|issn=0971-751X}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|last=Ellis-Petersen|first=Hannah|date=2021-02-07|title=Scores feared dead as glacier causes dams to burst in north India|language=en-GB|work=The Guardian|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/feb/07/150-feared-dead-as-glacier-crashes-into-dam-in-northern-india|access-date=2021-02-08|issn=0261-3077}}</ref>

==Gallery==
<gallery>
File:Nanda Devi peak view from the west near Deodi camp in Rishi Ganga gorge Mon 2 Jun 1980.jpg|Nanda Devi peak view from the west near Deodi camp in Rishi Ganga gorge
File:Nanda Devi peak view from outer Sanctuary near Bujgara Jun 1980.jpg|Nanda Devi peak view from outer Sanctuary near Bujgara
File:Nanda Devi peak view from outer Sanctuary near Bujgara Jun 1980 closeup.jpg|Nanda Devi peak view from outer Sanctuary near Bujgara closeup
File:Nanda Devi peaks wide view SE from slopes of Kalanka in Changabang Gal Jun 1980.jpg|Nanda Devi peaks wide view SE from slopes of Kalanka in Changabang Gal
File:Nanda Devi peak N face view from slopes of Deo Damla Jun 1980.jpg|Nanda Devi peak N face view from slopes of Deo Damla
File:Nanda Devi north face viewed from Deo Damla approach valley June 1980.jpg|Nanda Devi north face viewed from Deo Damla approach valley
</gallery>

== See also ==
* [[Sacred mountains#India|Sacred mountains of India]]

==References==
{{Reflist}}

== Books ==
* {{aut|[[William McKay Aitken|Aitken, Bill]]}}. (reprinted 1994). ''The Nanda Devi Affair'', Penguin Books India. {{ISBN|0-14-024045-4}}.
* {{aut|[[M S Kohli|Kohli, M.S.]] & Conboy, K.}} (2003). ''Spies in the Himalayas: Secret Missions and Perilous Climbs'', University Press of Kansas. {{ISBN|0-7006-1223-8}}.
* {{aut|[[Vinod Jose|Jose, Vinod]]}} (2010). ''River Deep, Mountain High'', [http://www.caravanmagazine.in/reportage/river-deep-mountain-high The Caravan Magazine].
* {{aut|[[Malhotra, Ashok]]}} (2011) ''Nude Besides the Lake'', Createspace {{ISBN|978-1463529390}}
* {{aut|Roskelley, John}}. (2000).  ''Nanda Devi: The Tragic Expedition'', The Mountaineers Books. {{ISBN|0-89886-739-8}} .
* {{aut|Sanan, Deepak}}. (1995) ''Nandadevi – Restoring Glory'' – New Age International (Wiley Eastern Ltd), New Delhi. {{ISBN|81-224-0752-8}}.
* {{aut|[[Eric Shipton|Shipton, E.]], [[Bill Tilman|Tilman, H.W.]] & Houston, C.}} (Reprinted 2000). ''Nanda Devi:Exploration and Ascent'', The Mountaineers Books. {{ISBN|0-89886-721-5}}.
* {{aut|Sircar, J.}} (1979) ''Himalayan Handbook'', (private pub., Calcutta).
* {{aut|Takeda, Peter}}. (2006) ''An Eye at the Top of the World: The Terrifying Legacy of the Cold War's Most Daring C.I.A. Operation'', Thunder's Mouth Press. {{ISBN|1-56025-845-4}}.
* {{aut|Thomson, Hugh}} (2004) ''Nanda Devi: A Journey to the Last Sanctuary'', Weidenfeld & Nicolson {{ISBN|0-297-60753-7}}
* [[H. W. Tilman|Tilman, H. W.]], ''The Ascent of Nanda Devi'', Cambridge University Press. 1937.

==External links==
{{commons category}}
* [http://www.indianexpress.com/news/kargil-war-hero-missing-in-nanda-devi-snowst/224538/ "Kargil war hero missing in Nanda Devi snowstorm" Indianexpress.com]
* [http://www.nandadevi.org/ Nanda Devi Campaign] – web site of the local inhabitants
* {{cite peakware|id=190|name=Nanda Devi}} – photos
* [https://whc.unesco.org/pg.cfm?cid=31&id_site=335 Unesco World Heritage Site] on Nanda Devi
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20070310142638/http://www.gmvnl.com/newgmvn/nandadevi.aspx GMVN – Uttarakhand Tourism page on Nanda Devi National Park]
* [https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/asia/high-heaven-a-trek-to-the-top-of-the-world-559223.html 'High heaven: a trek to the top of the world' The Independent]- article describing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary

{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Sacred mountains of India]]
[[Category:Mountains of Uttarakhand]]
[[Category:Biosphere reserves of India]]
[[Category:Tourist attractions in Uttarakhand]]
[[Category:World Heritage Sites in India]]
[[Category:Geography of Chamoli district]]
[[Category:Highest points of Indian states and union territories]]
[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas]]
[[Category:National symbols of India]]
[[Category:Mountains in Hinduism]]