Editing Poplin

{{short description|Strong, plain-weave fabric with a fine cross-rib}}
{{other uses}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=November 2020}}
[[File:Popel 101.jpg|thumb|Poplin]]
[[File:MAPElNorte078.JPG|thumbnail|Poplin dress embroidered with grape vines from [[Aguascalientes]] at the [[Museo de Arte Popular]] in [[Mexico City]]]]
{{wikt | poplin}}

'''Poplin''', also called '''tabinet''' (or '''tabbinet'''),<ref>{{Cite book|last= Singh|first= SINGH|title=Hotel Housekeeping|date= 22 May 2024|publisher=Tata Mc Graw Hill education|isbn= 9781259050534|pages= 252}}</ref> is a fine (but thick) wool, cotton or silk [[fabric]] with crosswise ribs that typically give a corded surface. Nowadays, the name refers to a strong material in a [[plain weave]] of any fiber or blend.<ref name="TH">{{cite web |title= poplin|work=The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers (via Credo Reference)|publisher=Thames & Hudson|year= 2007|url= http://www.credoreference.com/entry/thfashion/poplin |access-date=5 June 2011 }}</ref>

Poplin traditionally consisted of a [[silk]] [[warp (weaving) |warp]] with a [[weft]] of [[worsted yarn]]. In this case, as the weft is in the form of a stout cord, the fabric has a ridged structure, like [[Rep (clothing) |rep]], which gives depth and softness to the lustre of the silky surface.<ref name="EB1911">{{EB1911|inline=y|wstitle=Poplin|volume=22|page=90}}</ref> The ribs run across the fabric from [[selvedge]] to selvedge. In Britain, woollen yarn from the spinners in Suffolk would be sent to Dublin to be woven with silk into tabinet.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Raynbird |first1=William |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hKoHAAAAQAAJ |title=On the Agriculture of Suffolk |last2=Raynbird |first2=Hugh |date=1849 |publisher=Longman and Company |page=286 |language=en}}</ref>

Poplin is now made with [[wool]], [[cotton]], [[silk]], [[rayon]], [[polyester]] or a mixture of these. Since it has a plain under/over weave, the fabric displays a plain woven surface with no ribbing if the weft and warp threads are of the same material and size. [[Shirt]]s made from this material are easy to iron and do not wrinkle easily.

Poplins are used for dress purposes, and for rich [[upholstery]] work which are formed by using coarse [[filling yarn | filling-yarn]]s in a plain/hard weave.

The term "poplin" allegedly originates from ''papelino'', a fabric made at [[Avignon]], France,<ref>{{Cite book|last= Boucoiran|first= Louis|url= https://books.google.com/books?id=8RqhqUZfSnsC&dq=papelino+from+Avignon+france&pg=PA1003|title= Dictionnaire analogique & étymologique des idiomes|year= 1875|pages= 1003}}</ref> in the 15th century, and named for the [[papal]] (pope's)[[Avignon Papacy| residence there]],<ref>{{Cite book|url= https://books.google.com/books?id=UORcqUXTgJ4C&dq=poplin+named+for+the+papal+(pope%27s)+residence+there&pg=PA5850|title= Library of Congress Subject Headings|year= 2007|pages= 5850}}</ref> and from the French ''papeline'' (a fabric, normally made with silk, of the same period).<ref name="TH" /> An alternative derivation associates "poplin" with products of the cloth industry of [[Poperinge]] in [[Flanders]] in present-day Belgium.<ref>
{{oed | poplin}} - "Alteration by folk etymology (after pope n.1) of French †papeline (1667), apparently a transferred use of a form (with -l- for -r- ) of the name of ''Poperinge'', a town in Flanders [...] noted for its textile production [...]. French ''popeline'' (1735) is apparently reborrowed < English."
</ref><ref>
{{cite book
 |last1                = Cave
 |first1               = Nigel
 |date                 = 29 March 1990
 |chapter              = Poperinge (WWI)/Vlamertinge
 |title                = Battleground Europe: A Guide to Battlefields in France & Flanders
 |url                  = https://books.google.com/books?id=2rvgAwAAQBAJ
 |publication-place    = Barnsley, South Yorkshire
 |publisher            = Wharncliffe
 |page                 = 86
 |isbn                 = 9781871647020
 |access-date          = 20 December 2022
 |quote                = [...] Poperinge gave us the word 'poplin'.
}} 
</ref>

The most common usage of poplin until about the 20th century was to make silk, cotton or heavy-weight wool dresses, suitable for winter wear.

In the early 1920s, British-made cotton poplin was introduced to the United States, but the American market thought that the name had connotations of heaviness and arbitrarily renamed it "[[broadcloth]]", a name that persists for a cotton or polyester-cotton blend fabric used for [[shirting]].<ref>{{cite book |last1= Tortora |first1= Phyllis G.|last2= Johnson |first2= Ingrid |title=The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles|date=17 September 2013 |publisher= A&C Black |isbn=9781609015350 |url= https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA76 | quote = When it was introduced in the U.S. during the early 1920s, the British name poplin was not used because it was felt that this connoted a heavier fabric. Instead the name broadcloth was given with relatively little reason for the choice of term.}}</ref> In Europe, "broadcloth" typically describes a densely-woven woolen fabric with a smooth finish.<ref name=fairchild76>{{cite book |last1= Tortora |first1= Phyllis G.|last2= Johnson |first2= Ingrid |title=The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles|date=17 September 2013 |publisher= A&C Black |isbn=9781609015350 |url= https://books.google.com/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA76 }}</ref>{{qn|date=December 2022}}

==See also==
* [[Eolienne]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

{{fabric}}

[[Category:Woven fabrics]]