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{{Short description|Long continuous length of interlocked fibres}} {{other uses}} {{Lead too short|date=May 2022}} {{Infobox material | image = File:Yarn at Folklife - Stierch.jpg | caption = Balls of yarn |name=Yarn}} [[File:Rope on flowers.jpg|thumb|A visual of twisted yarn ]] '''Yarn''' is a long continuous length of interlocked [[fibre]]s, used in [[sewing]], [[crochet]]ing, [[knitting]], [[weaving]], [[embroidery]], [[rope]]making, and the production of [[Textile|textiles]].<ref name="definition">{{cite dictionary|url=http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/yarn|title=Yarn|dictionary=Merriam-Webster|access-date=2012-05-25|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120507191854/http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/yarn|archive-date=2012-05-07}}</ref> ''[[Thread (yarn)|Thread]]'' is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or [[sewing machine|machine]]. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with [[wax]] or other [[Lubricant|lubricants]] to withstand the stresses involved in sewing.<ref>Kadolph, Sara J., ed. (2007) ''Textiles'', 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall. p. 203. {{ISBN|0-13-118769-4}}</ref> [[Embroidery thread]]s are yarns specifically designed for [[needlework]]. Yarn can be made of a number of natural or synthetic materials, and comes in a variety of colors and thicknesses (referred to as "weights"). Although yarn may be [[Dyeing|dyed]] different colours, most yarns are solid coloured with a uniform [[hue]]. == Etymology == The word "[[wikt:yarn#English|yarn]]" comes from [[Middle English]], from the [[Old English]] {{Lang|ang|gearn}}, akin to [[Old High German]] ''{{Lang|goh|garn}}'', "yarn", [[Dutch language|Dutch]] ''{{Lang|nl|garen}}'', [[Ancient Greek]] ''{{Lang|grc|χορδή}}'', "string", and [[Sanskrit]] {{Transliteration|sa|hira}}, "band".<ref name=definition/> It originally referred to entrails.<ref>https://www.etymonline.com/word/yarn?utm_source=app</ref> == History == The human production of yarn is known to have existed since the [[Stone Age]] and earlier [[prehistory]], with ancient [[fiber]] materials developing from animal [[Hide (skin)|hides]], to [[Reed (plant)|reeds]], to early fabrics. [[Cotton]], [[wool]], and [[silk]] were the first materials for yarn, and textile [[trade]] contributed immensely to the ancient global economy.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Bay |first=Ann |date=September 1980 |title=Spinning Yarns, Telling Tales about Textiles |url=http://www.smithsonianeducation.org/educators/lesson_plans/spinning_yarns/atz_spinningyarns_sep1980.pdf |journal=Art to Zoo |publisher=Office of Elementary and Secondary Education, [[Smithsonian Institution]] |via=Smithsonian Learning Lab}}</ref> In 2011, the [[Bangladesh University of Textiles]] established a specialized Department of Yarn Engineering, focusing on the advanced techniques of transforming textile fibers into yarn.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Department of Yarn Engineering |url=https://www.butex.edu.bd/department-of-yarn-engineering-2/ |website=[[Bangladesh University of Textiles]]|date=27 March 2016 }}</ref> == Materials == Yarn can be made from a number of [[natural fiber|natural]] or [[synthetic fiber]]s, or a blend of natural and synthetic fibers. === Natural fibers === {{main|Natural fiber}} ====Cotton==== [[File:Flügelspinnmaschine.jpeg|thumb|right|[[Cotton-spinning machinery|Flyer spinning]] of cotton]] The most common plant fiber is [[cotton]], which is typically spun into fine yarn for mechanical weaving or knitting into [[cloth]].<ref name="advameg">{{cite web |title = How yarn is made |publisher = Advameg |url = http://www.madehow.com/Volume-3/Yarn.html |access-date = 2007-06-21 |url-status = live |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070616053622/http://www.madehow.com/Volume-3/Yarn.html |archive-date = 2007-06-16 }}</ref> ====Silk==== [[Silk]] is a natural [[protein]] [[fiber]], some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of [[fibroin]] and is produced by the larvae of the moth ''[[Bombyx mori]]''. Silk production is thought to have begun in China and silk thread and cloth manufacture was well-established by the [[Shang dynasty]] (1600–1050 BCE).<ref name="postrel">{{cite book |last1=Postrel |first1=Virginia |title=The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World |date=2020 |publisher=Basic Books |location=New York |isbn=9781541617629 |page=58}}</ref> ====Linen==== [[Linen]] is another natural fiber with a long history of use for yarn and textiles. Linen fibers are derived from the [[flax]] plant. <ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XR4mCgAAQBAJ&q=%22linen%22+used+to+make+yarn&pg=PA70|title=J.J. Pizzuto's Fabric Science: Studio Access Card|last1=Johnson|first1=Ingrid|last2=Cohen|first2=Allen C.|last3=Sarkar|first3=Ajoy K.|date=2015-09-24|publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing USA|isbn=9781628926583}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=llOi2BeViCwC&q=%22cotton%22+used+to+make+yarn&pg=PA311|title=Soft Surfaces: Visual Research for Artists, Architects, and Designers|last=Juracek|first=Judy A.|date=2000|publisher=W. W. Norton & Company|isbn=9780393730333}}</ref> ====Other plant fibers==== [[File:40-QWSTION-BANANATEX-WARPING-LAUSCHSICHT.jpg|thumb|[[Manila hemp]] warp yarns being prepared for weaving in a modern textile factory]] Other plant fibers which can be spun include [[bamboo]], [[hemp]], [[maize]], [[Urtica dioica|nettle]], and [[soy]] fiber.<ref name="vikki" /> ====Animal fibers==== The most common spun animal fiber is [[wool]] harvested from [[sheep]]. As long fibers make better yarn, sheep have been bred over time to produce longer fibers. This increases the need for [[Sheep shearing|shearing]] to prevent pests and overheating.<ref name="doyle">{{cite journal |last1=Doyle |first1=EK |last2=Preston |first2=JWV |last3=McGregor |first3=BA |last4=Hynd |first4=PI |title=The science behind the wool industry. The importance and value of wool production from sheep. |journal=Anim Front |date=May 17, 2021 |volume=11 |issue=2 |pages=15–23 |doi=10.1093/af/vfab005 |pmid=34026311 |pmc=8127695 }}</ref> Other animal fibers used include [[alpaca]], [[Angora wool|angora]], [[mohair]], [[llama]], [[Cashmere wool|cashmere]], and silk.<ref name="vikki">{{cite book |last1=Haffenden |first1=Vikki |last2=Patmore |first2=Frederica |title=The Knitting Book: Over 250 Step-by-Step Techniques |date=2019 |publisher=DK Publishing |location=New York |isbn=9781465482402 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qbW1DwAAQBAJ |access-date=6 November 2024}}</ref> More rarely, yarn may be spun from [[camel]], [[yak]], [[common brushtail possum|possum]], [[musk ox]], [[vicuña]], [[cat]], [[Chiengora|dog]], [[wolf]], [[Angora rabbit|rabbit]], [[bison]], or [[chinchilla]] hair, as well as [[Turkey (bird)|turkey]] or [[ostrich]] feathers. ===Synthetic fibers=== {{Main|Synthetic fiber}} Some examples of synthetic fibers that are used as yarn are [[nylon]], [[acrylic fiber]], [[rayon]],<ref>{{cite journal |title=Rayon |journal=Time Magazine |date=1925 |volume=5 |issue=26 |pages=24–25}}</ref> and [[polyester]]. Synthetic fibers are generally extruded in continuous strands of gel-state materials. These strands are drawn (stretched), annealed (hardened), and cured to obtain properties desirable for later processing. Synthetic fibers come in three basic forms: staple, tow, and filament. Staple is cut fibers, generally sold in lengths up to 120 mm. Tow is a continuous "rope" of fibers consisting of many filaments loosely joined side-to-side. Filament is a continuous strand consisting of anything from one filament to many. Synthetic fiber is most often [[Units of textile measurement|measured in a weight per linear measurement basis]], along with cut length. Denier and Dtex are the most common weight to length measures. Cut-length only applies to staple fiber. Filament extrusion is sometimes referred to as "spinning," but most people equate spinning with spun yarn production. ===Yarn from recycled materials=== [[T-shirt]] yarn is a recycled yarn made from the same fabric as is used in T-shirts and other clothes. It is often made from the remainder fabric of clothing manufacture, and therefore is considered a recycled and [[Environmentally friendly|eco-friendly]] product. It can also be made at home out of used clothing.{{dead|date=July 2023}}<ref name="coburn">{{cite journal |last1=Coburn |first1=Robyn |title=Crafting for a Greener World: T-shirt yarns |journal=Natural Life Magazine |date=September 1, 2010 |issue=135 |pages=10–13 |url=https://www.life.ca/naturallife/1010/crafting-for-a-greener-world-refashioning-tshirt-yarns.htmhttps://www.life.ca/naturallife/1010/crafting-for-a-greener-world-refashioning-tshirt-yarns.htm |access-date=19 December 2021 }}{{Dead link|date=July 2023 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> The resulting yarn can be used in knitted or crocheted items.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Holli |first1=Friedland |title=Knitting with recycled t-shirts |work=Baltimore Examiner |date=April 5, 2010}}</ref> === Comparison of material properties === [[File:Restored primary level spinning machine at Quarry Bank Mill.jpg|thumb|left|190px|A fully restored Derby Doubler, winding a sliver lap ready for finisher carding at [[Quarry Bank Mill]] in the UK]] In general, natural fibers tend to require more careful handling than synthetics because they can shrink, [[felt]], stain, shed, fade, stretch, wrinkle, or be eaten by [[moth]]s more readily, unless special treatments such as [[mercerized cotton|mercerization]] or super washing are performed to strengthen, fix color, or otherwise enhance the fiber's own properties. Some types of protein yarns (i.e., hair, silk, feathers) may feel irritating to some people, causing [[contact dermatitis]], [[hives]], or [[wheeze|wheezing]]. These reactions are likely a sensitivity to thicker and coarser fiber diameter or fiber ends.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Shakespeare|first=Margaret|date=September 30, 2015|title=20 Things You Didn't Know About...Wool|url=https://www.discovermagazine.com/planet-earth/20-things-you-didnt-know-about-wool|access-date=2021-11-25|website=Discover Magazine}}</ref> In fact, contrary to popular belief, wool allergies are practically unknown. According to a study reviewing the evidence of wool as an [[allergen]] conducted by Acta Dermato-Venereologica,<ref name=pmid28350041>{{cite journal |last1=Zallmann |first1=M |last2=Smith |first2=P |last3=Tang |first3=M |last4=Spelman |first4=L |last5=Cahill |first5=J |last6=Wortmann |first6=G |last7=Katelaris |first7=C |last8=Allen |first8=K |last9=Su |first9=J |title=Debunking the Myth of Wool Allergy: Reviewing the Evidence for Immune and Non-immune Cutaneous Reactions |journal=Acta Dermato Venereologica |date=2017 |volume=97 |issue=8 |pages=906–915 |doi=10.2340/00015555-2655 |pmid=28350041 |doi-access=free |hdl=10072/355515 |hdl-access=free }}</ref> contemporary superfine or ultrafine Merino wool with their reduced fibre diameters do not provoke itch, are well tolerated and in fact benefit [[Dermatitis|eczema]] management.<ref name=pmid28350041/> Further studies suggest that known allergens applied during textile processing are minimally present in wool garments today given current industry practices and are unlikely to lead to allergic reactions.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Are you allergic to wool?|url=https://www.woolmark.com/fibre/are-you-allergic-to-wool/|access-date=2021-11-25|website=www.woolmark.com}}</ref> When natural hair-type fibers are burned, they tend to singe and have a smell of burnt hair; this is because many, like human hair, are protein-derived. Cotton and viscose (rayon) yarns burn as a wick. Synthetic yarns generally tend to melt, though some synthetics are inherently [[Fire-retardant fabric|flame-retardant]]. Noting how an unidentified fiber strand burns and smells can assist in determining if it is natural or synthetic, and what the fiber content is. Both synthetic and natural yarns can [[Pill (textile)|pill]]. Pilling is a function of fiber content, spinning method, twist, contiguous staple length, and fabric construction. Single ply yarns or using fibers like merino wool are known to pill more due to the fact that in the former, the single ply is not tight enough to securely retain all the fibers under abrasion, and the merino wool's short staple length allows the ends of the fibers to pop out of the twist more easily. Yarns combining synthetic and natural fibers inherit the properties of each parent, according to the proportional composition. Synthetics are added to lower cost, increase durability, add unusual color or visual effects, provide machine washability and stain resistance, reduce heat retention, or lighten garment weight. == Structure == {{main|Spinning (textiles)}} [[File:Spinning jenny.jpg|thumb|left|A [[Spinning jenny|Spinning Jenny]], spinning machine which was significant in the beginning of the Industrial Revolution]] [[File:Yarn twist S-Left Z-Right.png|thumb|upright|S- and Z-twist yarn]] ==={{anchor|Spun yarn}}Spun yarn=== Spun yarn is made by twisting [[staple (textiles)|staple]] [[fibre]]s together to make a cohesive thread, or "single".<ref>Kadolph, Sara J., ed. (2007) ''Textiles'', 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall. p. 197. {{ISBN|0-13-118769-4}}</ref> Twisting fibres into yarn in the process called [[Spinning (textiles)|spinning]] can be dated back to the [[Upper Paleolithic]],<ref>Barber, Elizabeth Wayland (1994) ''Women's Work:The First 20,000 Years'', W. W. Norton. p. 44. {{ISBN|0393313484}}</ref> and yarn spinning was one of the first processes to be [[industrialized]]. Spun yarns are produced by placing a series of individual fibres or filaments together to form a continuous assembly of overlapping fibres, usually bound together by twist. Spun yarns may contain a single type of fibre, or be a blend of various types. Combining synthetic fibres (which can have high strength, lustre, and fire retardant qualities) with natural fibres (which have good water absorbency and skin comforting qualities) is very common. The most widely used blends are cotton-polyester and wool-acrylic fibre blends. Blends of different natural fibres are common too, especially with more expensive fibres such as alpaca, [[angora wool|angora]] and [[Cashmere wool|cashmere]]. Yarn is selected for different textiles based on the characteristics of the yarn fibres, such as warmth (wool), light weight (cotton or rayon), durability (nylon is added to sock yarn, for example), or softness (cashmere, alpaca). Yarn is composed of twisted strands of fiber, which are known as plies when grouped together.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=4eEpAAAAQBAJ&q=Yarn+twisted+strands+of+fiber%2C+which+are+known+as+plies+when+grouped+together.&pg=PA367|title=Construction Materials Reference Book|last1=Doran|first1=David|last2=Cather|first2=Bob|date=2013-07-24|publisher=Routledge|isbn=9781135139216}}</ref> These strands of yarn are twisted together ([[plying|plied]]) in the opposite direction to make a thicker yarn. Depending on the direction of this final twist, the yarn will have either ''s-twist'' (the threads appear to go "up" to the left) or ''z-twist'' (to the right). For a single ply yarn, the direction of the final twist is the same as its original twist. The twist direction of yarn can affect the final properties of the fabric, and combined use of the two twist directions can nullify skewing in knitted fabric.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.interweave.com/article/spinning/plying-yarn-resources/|title=How to Ply Yarn the Simple Way with this Expert Guide {{!}} Interweave|date=2016-11-18|work=Interweave|access-date=2017-12-05|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161214201804/http://www.interweave.com/article/spinning/plying-yarn-resources/|archive-date=2016-12-14}}</ref> The mechanical integrity of yarn is derived from frictional contacts between its composing fibers. The science behind this was first studied by [[Galileo]].<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Warren|first1=Patrick B.|display-authors=etal|title=Why Clothes Don't Fall Apart: Tension Transmission in Staple Yarns|journal=[[Physical Review Letters]]|date=13 April 2018|volume=120|issue=15|pages=158001|doi=10.1103/PhysRevLett.120.158001|pmid=29756870|arxiv=1804.07606|bibcode=2018PhRvL.120o8001W|s2cid=21727156}}</ref> ==== Carded and combed yarn ==== Combed yarns are produced by adding another step of yarn spinning, namely combing, which aligns the fibres and removes the short fibres carried over from the previous step of carding. Combed yarn results in superior-quality fabrics. In comparison to carded yarns, this particular yarn is slightly more expensive, because the weaving is a long, consuming process. Combing separates small fibres from elongated fibres, in which this procedure makes the yarn softer and smoother.<ref>{{Cite book|last=American Home Economics Association. Textiles and Clothing Section|url=http://archive.org/details/textilehandbook00amer|title=Textile handbook|date=1970|publisher=Washington, American Home Economics Association|others=Internet Archive|pages=30}}</ref> ==== Hosiery yarn ==== Hosiery yarns are used in the manufacturing of [[knitted fabric]]s. Since the knitted materials are more delicate than woven materials; hence hosiery yarns are made 'softer' with fewer [[Twist per inch|twists per inch]] than their woven counterparts. Hosiery yarn comes from a separate spinning process (melt spinning), and is used with circular knitting machines to form fabric.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Wingate|first=Isabel Barnum|url=http://archive.org/details/fairchildsdictio00wing|title=Fairchild's dictionary of textiles|date=1979|publisher=New York : Fairchild Publications|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-87005-198-2|pages=298}}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal|date=1927-03-01|title=Hosiery Yarns and the Knitted Fabric|journal=Journal of the Textile Institute Proceedings|volume=18|issue=3|pages=P74–P75|doi=10.1080/19447012708665800}}</ref> ==== Open-end yarn ==== Open-end yarn is produced by [[open-end spinning]] without a [[Spindle (textiles)|spindle]]. The method of spinning is different from [[ring spinning]]. In open-end yarn, there is no [[roving]] frame stage. [[Sliver (textiles)|Sliver]] from the [[Carding|card]] goes into the rotor, is spun into yarn directly. Open-end yarn can be produced from short fibers. Open-end yarns are different from ring yarns. Open-end yarns are limited to coarser counts.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Wingate|first=Isabel Barnum|url=http://archive.org/details/fairchildsdictio00wing|title=Fairchild's dictionary of textiles|date=1979|publisher=New York : Fairchild Publications|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-87005-198-2|pages=425}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/798340806|title=Advances in yarn spinning technology|date=2010|publisher=Woodhead Publishing Ltd|author=Lawrence, Alexander |isbn=978-0-85709-021-8|location=Cambridge|pages=81–261–273–365|oclc=798340806}}</ref> ==== Novelty yarn ==== {{main|Novelty yarns}} Novelty yarns or complex yarns are yarns with special (fancy) effects introduced during spinning or plying. One example is [[slub (textiles)|slub]] yarns, yarn with thick or thin sections alternating regularly or irregularly. In a similar manner, creating deliberate unevenness, additions or injections of neps or metallic or synthetic fibers (along with natural fibers) in spinning creates novelty yarns. ===Filament yarn=== <!-- [[Filament yarn]] redirects here --> Filament yarn consists of [[Filament fibre|filament fibres]] (very long continuous fibres) either twisted together or only grouped together. Thicker [[monofilament line|monofilament]]s are typically used for industrial purposes rather than fabric production or decoration. Silk is a natural filament, and synthetic filament yarns are used to produce silk-like effects. ==== Texturized yarn==== Texturized yarns are made by a process of air texturizing filament yarns (sometimes referred to as ''[[taslanizing]]''), which combines multiple filament yarns into a yarn with some of the characteristics of spun yarns. They are synthetic continuous filaments that are modified to impart special texture and appearance. It was originally applied to synthetic fibers to reduce transparency, slipperiness and increase warmth, absorbency and makes the yarn more opaque. It was used to manufacture a variety of textile products: knitted underwear and outer wear, shape-retaining knitted suits, overcoats. They also were used in the production of artificial fur, carpets, blankets, etc.<ref>{{Cite web|title=textile – Types of yarn|url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/textile|access-date=2021-10-22|website=Encyclopaedia Britannica}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|date=2013-12-12|title=Moisture mobility in textured yarns and fabrics|url=https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/moisture-mobility-in-textured-yarns-and-fabrics/|access-date=2021-10-22|website=Textile News, Apparel News, RMG News, Fashion Trends}}</ref> == Colour == [[File:Yarn store with various yarns.jpg|thumb|right|Yarn in various colours sold at a yarn store]] Yarn may be used undyed, or may be coloured with [[natural dye|natural]] or artificial [[dye]]s. Most yarns have a single uniform hue, but there is also a wide selection of variegated yarns: * [[Heather (fabric)|Heathered]] or [[tweed]]: yarn with flecks of different coloured fibre * [[Ombré]]: variegated yarn with light and dark shades of a single [[hue]] * Multicoloured: variegated yarn with two or more distinct hues (a "parrot colourway" might have green, yellow and red) * Self-striping: yarn dyed with lengths of colour that will automatically create stripes in a knitted or crocheted object * Marled: yarn made from strands of different-coloured yarn twisted together, sometimes in closely related hues Each of these different colours and styles are achieved through a process called yarn dyeing. There are many different methods of yarn dyeing: package dyeing, skein dyeing, space dyeing, warp beam dyeing, and more.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Kiron |first=Mazharul Islam |date=2013-01-28 |title=Flow Chart of Yarn Dyeing {{!}} Methods of Yarn Dyeing |url=https://textilelearner.net/flow-chart-of-yarn-dyeing/ |access-date=2024-11-24 |website=Textile Learner |language=en-US}}</ref> * Package Dyeing: This is the most commonly used method. This is when yarn is already spun up in bulk and then lowered into a chamber filled with dye. When the yarn is done absorbing the dye, it is removed from the cylindrical chamber to dry. * Skein Dyeing: This is the process of when yarn is laid loosely in skeins or hanks. They are then laid on top of a bar and submerged into what is called a dyebath. * Space Dyeing: This method is used to achieve the multi-colored effect. This method is achieved by taking sections of yarn and dipping them into different colours. After dipping one section into a colour, a chemical called [[mordant]] is used to permanently keep that color on the yarn so that the next color will not bleed into the prior color. * Warp Beam Dyeing: This is a larger version of package dyeing; however, it is only used in the manufacture of woven fabrics.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Kiron |first=Mazharul Islam |date=2013-01-28 |title=Flow Chart of Yarn Dyeing {{!}} Methods of Yarn Dyeing |url=https://textilelearner.net/flow-chart-of-yarn-dyeing/ |access-date=2024-11-24 |website=Textile Learner |language=en-US}}</ref> [[File:Yarn weight comparison with variegated colours.jpg|thumb|A comparison of yarn weights (thicknesses): the top skein is aran weight, suitable for knitting a thick sweater or hat. The manufacturer's recommended knitting [[Gauge (knitting)|gauge]] appears on the label: 5 to 7 stitches per inch using size 4.5 to 5.1 mm needles. The bottom skein is sock weight, specifically for knitting socks. Recommended gauge: 8 to 10 stitches per inch, using size 3.6 to 4.2 mm needles.]] [[File:Spool of white thread.jpg|thumb|Spool of all purpose sewing thread. Closeup shows texture of 2-ply, Z-twist, mercerized cotton with polyester core.]] [[File:Conner-prairie-yarn-drying.jpg|thumb|right|Yarn drying after being dyed in the early American tradition, at [[Conner Prairie]] living history museum]] == Weight == {{Main|Yarn weight}} Yarn quantities for handcrafts are usually measured and sold by weight in [[ounce]]s (oz) or [[gram]]s (g). Common sizes include 25g, 50g, and 100g skeins. Some companies also primarily measure in ounces with common sizes being three-ounce, four-ounce, six-ounce, and eight-ounce skeins. Textile measurements are taken at a standard temperature and [[humidity]] because variations in heat and humidity can cause fibers to absorb different amounts of moisture from the air, thus increasing the measured weight of the yarn without adding any fiber material. The actual length of the yarn contained in a ball or skein can vary due to the inherent heaviness of the fibre and the thickness of the strand; for instance, a 50 g skein of lace weight mohair may contain several hundred metres, while a 50 g skein of bulky wool may contain only 60 metres. Craft yarn comes in several thicknesses or weights. This is not to be confused with the measurement and weight listed above. The Craft Yarn Council of America promotes a standardized industry system for measuring yarn weight, where weights are numbered from 0 (finest) to 7 (thickest).<ref>{{cite web|title=Standards and Guidelines for Crochet and Knitting – Welcome to the Craft Yarn Council|url=http://www.yarnstandards.com/weight.html|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070418162310/http://www.yarnstandards.com/weight.html|archive-date=2007-04-18|website=www.yarnstandards.com}}</ref> Each weight can be described by a number and name: Size 0 yarn is called Lace, size 1 is Super Fine, size 2 is Fine, size 3 is Light, size 4 is Medium, size 5 is Bulky, size 6 is Super Bulky, and size 7 is Jumbo.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|title=Standard Yarn Weight System {{!}} Welcome to the Craft Yarn Council|url=https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/yarn-weight-system|access-date=2021-10-03|website=www.craftyarncouncil.com}}</ref> Each weight also has several commonly used but unregulated terms associated with it. However, this naming convention is more descriptive than precise; fibre artists disagree about where on the continuum each lies, and the precise relationships between the sizes. These terms include: fingering, sport, double-knit (or DK), [[worsted]], aran (or heavy worsted), bulky, super-bulky, and roving.<ref name=":1" /> Another measurement of yarn weight, often used by weavers, is wraps per inch (WPI). The yarn is wrapped snugly around a ruler and the number of wraps that fit in an inch are counted. Labels on yarn for handicrafts often include information on [[gauge (knitting)|gauge]], which can also help determine yarn weight. Gauge, known in the UK as tension, is a measurement of how many stitches and rows are produced per inch or per cm on a specified size of knitting needle or crochet hook. The proposed standardization uses a four-by-four inch/ten-by-ten cm knitted stockinette or single crocheted square, with the resultant number of stitches across and rows high made by the suggested tools on the label to determine the gauge. In Europe, textile engineers often use the unit [[tex (unit)|tex]], which is the weight in grams of a kilometre of yarn, or decitex, which is a finer measurement corresponding to the weight in grams of 10 km of yarn. Many other units have been used over time by different industries. == Yarn skeins == There are many different ways in which yarn is wound, including hanks, skeins, donut balls, cakes, and cones. === Hank === A hank<ref>{{Cite web|title=Definition of HANK|url=https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/hank|access-date=2021-10-03|website=www.merriam-webster.com}}</ref> of yarn is a looped bundle of yarn,<ref name=":0" /> similar to how wire is typically sold. The yarn is usually tied in two places directly opposite each other to keep the loops together and to keep them from tangling. Hanks are a preferred method of fastening yarn for many yarn sellers and yarn-dyers due to its ability to more widely display the qualities of the fiber.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|date=2017-02-23|title=Lisa's List: 12 Yarn Ball Types and How to Knit with Them|url=https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/lisas-list-yarn-ball-types/|access-date=2021-10-03|website=Interweave|archive-date=2021-10-03|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211003224148/https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/lisas-list-yarn-ball-types/|url-status=dead}}</ref> It is often wound using a [[Swift (textiles)|swift]], a standing contraption that holds a yarn hank without obstruction and spins on a central axis to facilitate yarn ball winding<ref>{{Cite news|date=January–February 1985|title=Hand Weaving Supplies from Weaving Today|work=Handwoven|url=https://www.interweave.com/wp-content/uploads/Hand_Weaving_Supplies2.pdf}}</ref> There are two subtypes of hanks: twisted and folded. A twisted hank is a hank that has been twisted into a rope braid. A folded hank is a hank that has been folded in half and wrapped in a label for retail purposes.<ref name=":0" /> === Skein === Skeins are one of the most common types of yarn ball. Although skeins are technically described as yarn that has been wound into an oblong shape, the word "skein" is used generically to describe any ball of yarn.<ref name=":0" /> Many large-scale yarn retailers like [[Lion Brand Yarns|Lion brand]] and parent companies like Yarnspirations sell their yarn in skeins. Unlike other types of yarn balls, a skein allows you to access both ends of the yarn.<ref name=":0" /> The yarn end in the inside of the skein is called a center pull.<ref name=":0" /> One major complaint of center pull bullet skeins is that the inside yarn end is not easily found, and often is pulled out of the skein in a jumble of tangled yarn called "yarn barf". There are two types of skeins: a pull skein, which is more rectangular in shape, and a bullet skein, which is rounder.<ref name=":0" /> == Microscopic aspect of selected yarns == Below are the images taken by a digital USB microscope. These show how the yarn looks in different kinds of clothes when magnified. <gallery class="center"> <!--File:Digital USB microscope.jpg|Digital USB microscope-- off focus --> File:Woolen Shawl.jpg|Woolen shawl File:Fabric under microscope 3(Shawl).jpg|Woolen shawl under microscope File:Cloth Pencil Box.jpg|Cloth pencil box File:Fabric under microscope 2 (Cloth pencil box).jpg|Cloth pencil box under microscope File:Jeans1.jpg|Jeans File:Fabric under microscope 4 (Jeans).jpg|Jeans under microscope File:Sweatshirt.jpg|Sweatshirt File:Fabric under microscope 1 (Track Pants).jpg|Sweatshirt under microscope </gallery> == See also == * [[Crochet thread]] * [[Dye lot]] * [[Electrically conducting yarn]] * [[Embroidery thread]] * [[Microfiber]] * [[ISO 2]] * [[List of novelty yarns]] * [[List of yarns for crochet and knitting]] * [[Thread (yarn)]] * [[Textile manufacturing]] * [[Yarn bombing]] *[[Yarn conditioning]] == References == {{reflist|30em}} == External links == {{commons}} * {{Cite EB1911|wstitle=Yarn |short=x}} {{crochet}} {{embroidery}} {{knitting}} {{Sewing}} {{textile arts}} {{weaving}} {{Authority control}} [[Category:Yarn| ]] [[Category:Knitting tools and materials]] [[Category:Crochet]] [[Category:Sewing]] [[Category:Weaving]] [[Category:Fibers]] [[Category:Animal hair products]] [[Category:Recycling by material]]
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