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Damask (Template:IPAc-en; Template:Langx) is a woven, reversible patterned fabric. Damasks are woven by periodically reversing the action of the warp and weft threads.<ref name=":02">Template:Cite journal</ref> The pattern is most commonly created with a warp-faced satin weave and the ground with a weft-faced or sateen weave.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Yarns used to create damasks include silk, wool, linen, cotton, and synthetic fibers, but damask is best shown in cotton and linen.<ref name=":02"/> Over time, damask has become a broader term for woven fabrics with a reversible pattern, not just silks.<ref name=":12">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
There are a few types of damask: true, single, compound, and twill. True damask is made entirely of silk.<ref name=":12"/> Single damask has only one set of warps and wefts and thus is made of up to two colors. Compound damask has more than one set of warps and wefts and can include more than two colors.<ref name=":12" /> Twill damasks include a twill-woven ground or pattern.<ref>Template:Cite journal</ref>
HistoryEdit
A damask weave is one of the five basic weaving techniques—the others being tabby, twill, Lampas, and tapestry—of the early Middle Ages Byzantine and Middle Eastern weaving centers. Damask was named after the city Damascus, Syria, a large trading center on the Silk Road.<ref name="jenkins">Jenkins, David T., ed.: The Cambridge History of Western Textiles, Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 2003, Template:ISBN, p. 343.</ref>
Damask in ChinaEdit
In China, draw looms with a large number of heddles were developed to weave damasks with complicated patterns.<ref name="World Textiles">Template:Cite book</ref> The Chinese may have produced damasks as early as the Tang dynasty (618–907).<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web
}}</ref> Damasks became scarce after the 9th century outside Islamic Spain, but were revived in some places in the 13th century. Trade logs between The British East India Company and China often demonstrate an ongoing trade of Chinese silks, especially damask.<ref name=":3">Template:Cite journal</ref> Damask is documented as being the heaviest Chinese silk.<ref name=":3" />
Damask in EuropeEdit
The word damask first appeared in a Western European language in mid-14th century French records.<ref>"Damas" etymology (in French). www.cnrtl.fr accessed 2 March 2021</ref> Shortly after its appearance in French language, damasks were being woven on draw looms in Italy. From the 14th to 16th century, most damasks were woven in one colour with a glossy warp-faced satin pattern against a duller ground. Two-colour damasks had contrasting colour warps and wefts, and polychrome damasks added gold and other metallic threads or additional colours as supplemental brocading wefts. Medieval damasks were usually woven in silk, but weavers also produced wool and linen damasks.<ref name="Monnas1">Monnas, Lisa. Merchants, Princes and Painters: Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300–1550. New Haven, Yale University Press, 2008, pp. 295–299</ref>
Damask and NomadsEdit
In daily nomadic life this form of weaving was generally employed by women, specifically in occupations such as carpet-making.<ref name=":2">Template:Cite book</ref> Women collected raw material from pasture animals and dyes from local flora, such as berries, insects, or grasses, to use in production.<ref name=":2" /> Each woman would create a specialized pattern sequence and color scheme that aligned with her personal identity and ethnic group.<ref name=":2" /> These techniques were passed down generationally from mother to daughter.<ref name=":2" />
Modern usageEdit
In the 19th century, the invention of the Jacquard loom which was automated with a system of punched cards, made weaving damask faster and cheaper.<ref name="World Textiles" />
Modern damasks are woven on computerized Jacquard looms.<ref name="text">Kadolph, Sara J., ed.: Textiles, 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall, 2007, Template:ISBN, p. 251</ref> Damask weaves are commonly produced in monochromatic (single-colour) weaves in silk, linen or synthetic fibres such as rayon and feature patterns of flowers, fruit and other designs. The long floats of satin-woven warp and weft threads cause soft highlights on the fabric which reflect light differently according to the position of the observer. Damask weaves appear most commonly in table linens and furnishing fabrics, but they are also used for clothing.<ref name="World Textiles" /> The damask weave is prevalent in the fashion industry due to its versatility and high-quality finish. Damask is often used for mid-to-high-quality garments—associating itself with higher quality brands/labels.
See alsoEdit
- Diapering (damask patterns in heraldry)
ReferencesEdit
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