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Action Directe (climb)

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Template:Short description {{#invoke:other uses|otheruses}} Template:Infobox climbing route Action Directe ({{#invoke:IPA|main}}) is a short Template:Convert overhanging sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus Template:Climbing grade grade.Template:Efn Action Directe is considered an important route in rock climbing history, and is one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for the level of 9a. The plyometric training techniques and customized equipment that Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of Action Directe also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved.

HistoryEdit

A close friend of Güllich, German climber Milan Sykora introduced him to the route that he had been working on at a large limestone prow at the Waldkopf crag, which was akin to an enormous boulder.<ref name=pm/><ref name=GR2/> Sykora was one of the leading German climbers at the time and had created several new routes UIAA grade X.<ref name=pm/> In the 1980s, Sykora had bolted a line coming from the right and had managed to climb the individual moves through the upper section, but believed the lower section feasible but too hard for himself – he generously offered the project to Güllich, who promptly bolted the direct start, and hence the name "Directe";<ref name=pm/><ref name=GR2/> Güllich said that it also named after the French terror group Action directe as climbing it felt like an attack on the fingers.<ref name=GR2/><ref>Tilman Hepp: Wolfgang Güllich. Leben in der Senkrechten. Eine Biographie. 1. Auflage. Rosenheimer Verlagshaus Alfred Förg, Rosenheim 1993, Template:ISBN, S. 125.</ref>

Güllich completed the first free ascent on 14 September 1991, after 11 days of working the route – spread over three weeks – and using a 16-move sequence including a direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket to redpoint it.<ref name=pm/> Güllich was 30 at the time and had been married just 5 days previously to freeing the route.<ref name=pm/> Four years later the route was repeated when East German climber Alexander Adler fulfilled what he called an "obsession" to repeat the climb.<ref name=pm/>

Subsequent climbers have used a slightly different circa 11 to 13-move sequence to Güllich's original very direct 16-move sequence.<ref name=pm/><ref name=GR2>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> At the 25-year anniversary of its first ascent, ten climbers who had completed the route assembled and estimated only Adler had repeated Güllich's exact 16-move sequence, and that all others had crossed slightly right to use a shorter sequence.<ref name=FD>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Güllich conservatively assigned a UIAA grade of XI, which was between Template:Climbing grade and Template:Climbing grade.<ref name=pm>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Subsequent ascents would verify its grade, which has since described as the "gold standard" or "benchmark" for Template:Climbing grade;<ref name=FD/> and the first ever 9a in history.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> It wasn't for almost another decade, until 2001 when Chris Sharma freed the 35-metre Realization/Biographie at Céüse in France, that a higher consensus Template:Climbing grade grade would be assigned.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

On 22 May 2020, French climber Mélissa Le Nevé made the first female free ascent and almost three decades after Güllich's original ascent was still only the 27th person to have climbed it.<ref name=CM>Template:Cite magazine</ref><ref name=RI>Template:Cite magazine</ref><ref name=MlN>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Two claimed ascents, Richard Simpson (2005),<ref name=RC1>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name=RC2>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> and Said Belhaj (2018), are disputed.<ref name=LAX1>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name=LAX>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

RouteEdit

Action Directe is famous for its unique style, involving physically demanding dynamic moves (known as dynos in bouldering) off single-finger pockets in the limestone, and in particular, a powerful initial dynamic jump-start into a two-finger pocket while leaning back at an extreme angle of 45-degrees.<ref name=pm/><ref name=FD/> The route is short at Template:Convert and took Güllich only 70-seconds to complete his very direct 16-move sequence; most ascents post the second ascent move rightwards to a more efficient 11 to 13 move sequence described as slightly easier than Güllich's original sequence (although still solidly 9a).<ref name=pm/><ref name=FD/>

After his 2016 ascent, German climber David Firnenburg described it as: "The initial dyno into the sharp two-finger pocket is followed by a passage with extreme lock-offs on small finger pockets. Then there are technically complicated side holds and pinches with difficult foot changes before you run out with a tricky must-hit crimp at the very end, where I still fell several times before sending".<ref name=FD/>

LegacyEdit

File:Action Directe 11 (9a), Foto Jorgos Megos.JPG
Alex Megos on Action Directe

Action Directe has been consistently described as famous, legendary, and iconic in the climbing media,<ref name=RI/><ref name=PM3/><ref name=PM5/> and even in 2020, it was being described as "an absolute cornerstone of cutting-edge difficulties that attracts an irresistible draw for the vertical elite", and "... milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the world".<ref name=PM3/><ref name=RI/> Action Directe has also been described as "Güllich's masterpiece" – the testpiece for Template:Climbing grade – and when he freed the route, he was at the height of his physical and technical powers.<ref name=PM3>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Güllich had used new intensive training techniques called plyometrics to prepare for the physical demands of the climb, and introduced the climbing world to the "campus board", which would become the new standard for future extreme climbers to build finger strength and develop more dynamic muscle strength.<ref name=pm/><ref name=CM/>

Some have speculated whether English climber Ben Moon's 1990 ascent of the very short Hubble, with only 4 crux moves, was actually the world's first Template:Climbing grade route.<ref name=FD/><ref name=GR9>Template:Cite magazine</ref> Repeat ascents of Hubble have verified it as being at least the world's first Template:Climbing grade.<ref name=PM9/><ref name=GR9/> German climber Alex Megos, is one of the few who have climbed both Hubble and Action Directe, and felt Hubble was probably an 8c+ in the right conditions,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> although Megos caveated himself by noting that grading is not an exact science, and is subject to the climber's own style.<ref name=PM9>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In 2022, British climber Buster Martin became only the second climber to have climbed both routes and felt that they were both 9a; he did note that being sponsored by Ben Moon might make people skeptical of his view.<ref name=CLBuster/>

The situation has been compared to the Realization versus Alexander Huber's Template:Ill debate on the world's first Template:Climbing grade.<ref name=GR9/> In fact, Huber attributes the initial conservative Template:Climbing grade grading of Action Directe that persisted for many years, despite it being eventually shown to be a "hard 9a", for artificially suppressing the grades of other routes in the 1990s, such as Huber's La Rambla, and Weisse Rose.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

AscentsEdit

Action Directe has been ascended by:<ref name=PM3/><ref name=GR55/> Template:Div col

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  • 14th Template:Ill, 10 October 2010<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • 15th Felix Knaub, October 2011<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • 18th Felix Neumärker, 16 May 2015<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • 19th Julius Westphal, 25 June 2015<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • 25th Template:Ill, 2 November 2018.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • 26th Adrian Chmiała, 5 May 2019<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • 27th Mélissa Le Nevé, May 2020; first female<ref name=CM/><ref name=RI/><ref name=MlN/>
  • 28th Phillip Gaßner, May 2021<ref>Template:Cite magazine</ref>
  • 29th Buster Martin, October 2022<ref name=CLBuster>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

  • 30th Vojtěch Trojan, April 2023<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • 31st Moritz Welt, October 2023<ref name=GR55>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • 33rd Michał Korban, September 2024<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • 34th Lukáš Mokroluský, March 2025<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Div col end First female free ascents (FFFA):

FilmographyEdit

See alsoEdit

NotesEdit

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ReferencesEdit

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External linksEdit

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