Kanzashi

Template:Short description Template:More citations needed Template:Italic title

A modern Template:Transliteration set of the type worn by Template:Transliteration (apprentice geisha) for the month of January

Template:Nihongo are hair ornaments used in traditional Japanese hairstyles. The term Template:Transliteration refers to a wide variety of accessories, including long, rigid hairpins, barrettes, fabric flowers and fabric hair ties.

In the English-speaking world, the term Template:Transliteration is typically used to refer to hair ornaments made from layers of folded cloth used to form flowers (Template:Transliteration), or the technique of folding used to make the flowers.

HistoryEdit

Template:Transliteration were first used in Japan during the Jōmon period. During that time, the wearing of a single thin rod or stick was considered to hold powers to ward off evil spirits, with people wearing them in their hair for protective purposes.Template:Citation needed The Jōmon period also saw the introduction of hair combs.

During the Nara period, a variety of Chinese cultural aspects and items were brought to Japan through mutual trade and envoys. The items brought back from China included Chinese hairpins (Template:Transliteration, {{#invoke:Lang|lang}}; written with the same Chinese character as Template:Transliteration), amongst other hair ornaments such as Chinese combs.<ref name=":4">Template:Cite book</ref>

During the Heian period, hairstyles shifted from being worn up to being worn long, and tied back relatively low. During this time period, the term Template:Transliteration began to be used as a general term for any hair ornament, including combs and hairpins.

During the Azuchi-Momoyama period, hairstyles changed from the Template:Nihongo3 style, to the wider variety of styles worn up – predecessors of modern Template:Transliteration styles, which made more use of hair ornaments.

Template:Transliteration came into wider use during the Edo period, when hairstyles became larger and more complicated, using a larger number of ornaments. Artisans began to produce more finely crafted products, including some hair ornaments that could be used as defensive weapons.Template:Citation needed During the latter part of the Edo period, the craftsmanship of Template:Transliteration is considered to have reached a high point, with a number of styles and designs created, many of which persist to the modern day.

Modern dayEdit

In the present day, traditional Japanese hairstyles are not commonly worn, typically being worn only by geisha, Template:Transliteration, sumo wrestlers, brides, modern Template:Transliteration and Template:Transliteration re-enactors, with both geisha, brides, Template:Transliteration and Template:Transliteration, and some apprentice geisha in some regions of Japan, using pre-styled wigs instead of their own hair.

As such, few people wear Template:Transliteration with traditional hairstyles. However, Template:Transliteration can be, and still are, worn with everyday hairstyles as simple hair accessories; there are a number of varieties and styles of wearing Template:Transliteration, with modern varieties worn as hairclips both common and popular. In 1982, Template:Transliteration were officially designated as a traditional Japanese handcraft in the Tokyo region.<ref>"Tokyo's Traditional Craft Associations". Retrieved on 14 February 2012. Template:Webarchive</ref>

CraftsmanshipEdit

Professional Template:Transliteration craftspeople typically undergo a five- to 10-year traditional apprenticeship to learn the trade. Similarly to the combs used to create Template:Transliteration hairstyles,<ref name="Traditional Kyoto">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> only a small number of traditionally-trained Template:Transliteration craftspeople are left practising the trade within Japan; from 2002 to 2010, their estimated number in the country decreased from 15 to five.<ref>Nakata Hiroko. "MUSEUM MUSINGS: Craftsmen keep alive hair ornaments that were all the rage in Edo Period", The Japan Times, 27 April 2002, retrieved 14 February 2012.</ref><ref>"Photos: The traditional decorative touch" Template:Webarchive, The Mainichi Daily News, 10 July 2010, retrieved 14 February 2012.</ref>

However, the Template:Transliteration technique of petal-folded fabric Template:Transliteration has become a popular craft amongst hobbyists, with a number of books, kits and lessons available on the subject, from sources such as the Tsumami Kanzashi Museum in Shinjuku. Some hobbyists have bypassed the traditional apprenticeship system to establish themselves as independent artisans of Template:Transliteration in Japan.<ref>"Ryoko"; English translation by Kevin Mcgue. "Yonuko's Beautiful Hair Pins: Make New From Old" Template:Webarchive. PingMag, 12 June 2008, retrieved 15 February 2012.</ref>

TypesEdit

Template:Transliteration are fabricated from a wide range of materials, such as lacquered wood, gold and silver plated metal, tortoiseshell, silk, and recently, plastic. Early plastic Template:Transliteration made out of materials such as bakelite are considered to be highly valued as collectables.

There are a number of basic Template:Transliteration styles, with the wear of each typically and traditionally following seasonal arrangements; however, in the present day, the use of seasonal Template:Transliteration is observed only by geisha, their apprentices, Template:Transliteration, Template:Transliteration re-enactors and in the costumes for kabuki plays. The use of Template:Transliteration to finely indicate age and status is a tradition also only held by geisha and Template:Transliteration.

For Template:Transliteration, the size, shape, variety and number of Template:Transliteration can indicate seniority and the stage of apprenticeship, used in tangent with a number of different hairstyles throughout the apprenticeship. Though geisha also wear seasonal Template:Transliteration, this is typically confined to a change in the colour of Template:Transliteration.

Basic stylesEdit

Despite seasonal and (in the instance of bridalwear) occasional variation, most Template:Transliteration that are not considered to be Template:Transliteration fall into one of a number of basic shapes and appearances.

Name	Photo	Description	Details
Template:Nihongo3	File:Japanese - Hair Ornament - Walters 571342.jpg	Two-pronged Template:Transliteration with a rounded plate at the tip. Metal strips are attached to its edge by small rings that move independently of the main hairpin.	Some Template:Transliteration feature bells or long chains of additional silk flowers known as Template:Transliteration, and most have a Template:Transliteration (crest) stamped on the flattened end.
Template:Nihongo3	File:Ogi-bira kanzashi (fluttering).JPG	Fan-shaped Template:Transliteration, stamped with the Template:Transliteration of the wearer.	Template:Transliteration are typically worn by Template:Transliteration.
Template:Nihongo3	File:Kogai&Kushi2.jpg	Two-piece stick-shaped Template:Transliteration featuring a design on each end, which tend to be wider than the centre. Template:Transliteration resemble sheathed swords, with one end being removable in order for it to be placed in the hairstyle.	Template:Transliteration are commonly made of tortoiseshell, lacquered wood, ceramics or metal, and are often sold as a set with an accompanying Template:Transliteration comb.
Template:Nihongo	File:Comb - Tokyo National Museum - DSC06299.JPG	Comb-shaped Template:Transliteration, typically rounded or rectangular, and made of similar materials to Template:Transliteration.	Template:Transliteration may be inlaid with mother of pearl or gilded, with most of the design placed on the wide "handle" portion, though sometimes extending down into the teeth of the comb itself. Template:Transliteration are usually placed at the front of the bun in traditional Japanese hairstyles. They commonly come in matching sets with Template:Transliteration.
Template:Nihongo3	File:Hana kushi.jpg	Template:Transliteration decorated with folded silk flowers (Template:Transliteration).	Template:Transliteration are popular as an informal Template:Transliteration variety.
Template:Nihongo3	File:Mimikaki kanzashi.JPG	Single-pronged hairpin style Template:Transliteration decorated with a single coloured bead on the end.	Template:Transliteration are commonly made of semi-precious stones such as jade or coral, or may be made of Template:Transliteration-dyed fabric. Traditionally, red Template:Transliteration were worn in the winter months, and green Template:Transliteration were worn in summer.
Template:Nihongo	File:Kanzashi1.jpg	Two-pronged Template:Transliteration with a rounded, flattened end, worn as a hairpin in the back of a traditional hairstyle.	Commonly made of wood, resin or metal, Template:Transliteration are commonly decorated with lacquer, gilded, inlaid with precious metals, or – in the case of metal Template:Transliteration – have a filigree-style carved design.
Template:Nihongo3	File:Wareshinobu back.jpg	Brightly-coloured fabric ties, sometimes padded, made of unpressed Template:Transliteration-dyed fabric. Template:Transliteration are usually tied around portions of the bun at the back of a traditional hairstyle.	Template:Transliteration are often pink or red. Non-Template:Transliteration varieties using Template:Transliteration crepe are also seen.

Other stylesEdit

A number of other styles of Template:Transliteration also exist, though these are typically only worn for specific, uncommon hairstyles, such as by Template:Transliteration in certain geisha districts or by characters in some kabuki plays.

Name	Photo	Description	Details
Template:Nihongo	File:Ichifuku wearing katsuyama.jpg Template:Transliteration seen on the right side of the bun in this Template:Transliteration hairstyle	Large, silver wire flower hairpins, typically featuring a larger flower in the centre, worn either side of the Template:Transliteration (bun) on certain hairstyles.	Template:Transliteration are typically only worn with the Template:Nihongo and Template:Nihongo hairstyles.
Template:Nihongo	File:Fumino misedashi eriashi.jpg	Strip-like metal hair ornaments seen at the back of some hairstyles, hanging down from the central bun.	Both Template:Transliteration, Template:Transliteration and Template:Transliteration re-enactors wear Template:Transliteration, with the Template:Transliteration of courtesans being longer and curled up at the end. Template:Transliteration are usually plain red or silver, though some may feature designs.
Template:Nihongo	File:Wareshinobu back.jpg Template:Transliteration seen on the right-hand side of this Template:Transliteration's hairstyle	Small, hairpin style Template:Transliteration intended to literally represent the ripe and unripened fruits of the Template:Transliteration orange tree. The leaves of Template:Transliteration are usually silver, with the oranges themselves made of jade and coral. For Template:Transliteration, the placement of the Template:Transliteration indicates seniority.
Template:Nihongo, also known as Template:Transliteration or simply Template:Transliteration	File:Geisha-kyoto-2004-11-21.jpg Template:Transliteration decorated with silver foil flowers	A triangular, folded piece of crepe fabric pinned into the back of certain hairstyles.	For Template:Transliteration, the colour of the fabric indicates seniority.
Template:Nihongo	File:Wareshinobu back.jpg	Short, heavily-decorated hairpins with a large, rounded decoration on the end.	Typically decorated with gold, silver, tortoiseshell, jade, coral and other semi-precious stones, Template:Transliteration are worn at the back of some hairstyles featuring a bun, with the Template:Transliteration placed in the bun's centre.
Template:Nihongo – also known as Template:Transliteration	File:Mameroku.jpg A small, circular green Template:Transliteration seen here on the left-hand side of this Template:Transliteration's hairstyle	Small hairpins with one small motif or decoration (such as a fan or flower) worn just above the Template:Transliteration, again typically only by Template:Transliteration.	Template:Transliteration are usually chosen by the wearer out of personal taste.

Template:TransliterationEdit

File:Maneki kanzashi.jpg

A December Template:Transliteration featuring two blank Template:Transliteration nameplates

File:Maiko Headdresses - panoramio.jpg

A display showing the seasonal Template:Transliteration worn by Template:Transliteration, from January to the New Year

Template:Transliteration – literally meaning "pinched Template:Transliteration" – are traditional Template:Transliteration made of squares of dyed or printed silk, folded into a number of shapes to represent flowers, plants and animals.

Each square is folded multiple times with the aid of tweezers and glued onto a base using rice glue. A finished Template:Transliteration piece may contain anything from five to 75 squares of silk or more. Template:Transliteration pieces are intended to closely represent the plant or animal they depict; Template:Transliteration depicting flowers are known as Template:Transliteration (literally meaning "flower Template:Transliteration").

Template:Transliteration are usually made from a cluster of Template:Transliteration flowers, and may include Template:Transliteration-style strips of metal or long streamers of petals dangling from the main Template:Transliteration piece. Template:Transliteration are well-known for wearing Template:Transliteration that are typically larger than average.

Generally, Template:Transliteration are worn in pairs, one on either side of the head, often with a complementary Template:Transliteration. The flowers are glued to backings of metal or cardboard that are attached to a wire and are bunched together to make bouquets and other arrangements. Additional detailing of stamens is created by the use of Template:Transliteration, a strong, thin twine made from Template:Transliteration paper, often coloured and used for decorative works.

Geisha, and especially Template:Transliteration, wear different Template:Transliteration for each month of the year.

Seasonal Template:Transliteration motifsEdit

Template:Transliteration are highly seasonal, though typically the only people in Japan who follow the seasons closely enough to register seasonal changes are geisha and their apprentices. Since Template:Transliteration wear more elaborate Template:Transliteration than their senior geisha, seasonal changes are even more important for them.

January – The design of January Template:Transliteration usually has an auspicious New Years' theme. Template:Transliteration is a popular choice – a combination of pine (Template:Transliteration), bamboo (Template:Transliteration) and plum blossoms (Template:Transliteration) in green, red and white. Other popular motifs are sparrows (Template:Transliteration), spinning tops and battledore paddles (Template:Transliteration).
February – Usually trailing deep pink or red plum blossoms, said to symbolise young love and the approach of spring. Another less common theme is the pinwheel and the flowerball (Template:Transliteration) that is worn for Setsubun.
March – Trailing yellow and white rapeseed flowers (Template:Transliteration) and butterflies, as well as peach blossoms (Template:Transliteration), narcissus (Template:Transliteration), camellia (Template:Transliteration) and peonies (Template:Transliteration). A rare Template:Transliteration featuring dolls that are used to celebrate the Template:Transliteration (Girl's Day Festival) can also be seen during this month.
April – Trailing soft pink cherry blossoms (Template:Transliteration) mixed with butterflies and Template:Transliteration lanterns, signalling the approach of summer. Cherry blossom viewing at this time of year is a major cultural event in Japan. Template:Transliteration consisting of a single silver (or sometimes gold) butterfly (Template:Transliteration) made of Template:Transliteration cord are common.
May – Trailing purple wisteria (Template:Transliteration) and flag irises (Template:Transliteration), usually in blue or pink. Irises denote the height of spring while wisteria is a flower often associated with the Imperial Court (wisteria viewing parties have been celebrated by Japanese nobles since the Heian period).
June – Trailing green willow (Template:Transliteration) leaves with carnations/pinks (Template:Transliteration), or less commonly hydrangea (Template:Transliteration) flowers. This month is the rainy season in Japan, and therefore willow (a water-loving tree) and blue hydrangeas are appropriate.
July – Template:Transliteration featuring a display of fans (usually round Template:Transliteration fans, but occasionally folding Template:Transliteration fans) are featured. The fans refer to the Gion Festival which takes place at this time. The motifs featured on a Template:Transliteration's fan Template:Transliteration vary each year, in line with the festival. There are common themes such as dragonflies and lines denoting swirling water. Other Template:Transliteration worn during July are fireworks Template:Transliteration and dewdrops on grass (Template:Transliteration).
August – Large morning glory (Template:Transliteration) or Template:Transliteration grass. The Template:Transliteration grass appears as a starburst of spines made of silvered paper. Senior Template:Transliteration wear white-backed silver petals and junior Template:Transliteration wear pink-backed silver petals.
September – Japanese bellflower (Template:Transliteration). The purple tones are traditionally associated with autumn. Often these will be mixed with bush clover.
October – Chrysanthemum (Template:Transliteration). These are well loved in Japan and are a symbol of the Imperial Family. Senior Template:Transliteration will wear one large flower while junior Template:Transliteration will wear a cluster of small flowers. Typical colours include pink, white, red, yellow, and purple.
November – Trailing autumnal leaves that are usually composed of the very popular Japanese maple. Maple viewing is the autumnal equivalent of cherry blossom viewing in Japan. Ginkgo and liquidambar leaves are also seen.
December – The Japanese make Template:Transliteration at this time of year, and often decorate trees with them to represent white flowers. It is thought to be good luck to wear Template:Transliteration featuring Template:Transliteration, or rice-cake flowers. December Template:Transliteration also feature two Template:Transliteration, name plates used by kabuki actors, which are initially blank. Traditionally, Template:Transliteration visit the Minamiza Theatre and ask two of their favourite kabuki actors to autograph them with their kabuki nom de plume. Template:Transliteration for senior Template:Transliteration feature green bamboo leaves while junior Template:Transliteration have a colourful assortment of lucky charms.
New Year – At this time of year all Template:Transliteration and geisha wear un-husked ears of rice in their hairstyles (Template:Transliteration wear it on the right while geisha wear it on the left). These Template:Transliteration also feature eyeless white doves. The Template:Transliteration and geisha fill in one eye and ask somebody they like to draw the other for good luck in the coming year.