Tokoyama
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A Template:Nihongo is a traditional Japanese hairdresser specializing in the theatrical arts (kabuki and Template:Transliteration) and professional sumo. The Template:Transliteration trade is the result of a slow evolution from the traditional Japanese barbers of the Edo period, some of whom gradually started to specialize in hairstyles of actors, puppets, and Template:Transliteration. The word Template:Transliteration uses a Japanese character meaning 'floor', because in the Edo period barbers had shops on simple raised floors.Template:Sfn<ref>Template:Cite encyclopedia</ref>
Template:Transliteration use a variety of traditional techniques and tools, mainly combs, spikes and strings, to style the hair after oiling it. Although Template:Transliteration maintain the use of techniques inherited from the Edo period, it is becoming increasingly difficult to maintain a traditional practice with the gradual disappearance of the craftsmen producing the oils and tools needed for traditional hairdressing.
Template:Transliteration maintain close relationships with those whose hair they arrange, often assigned to the particular service of a small group of people. In kabuki, this relationship leads the Template:Transliteration to choose a specialization that will lead them to follow only actors dedicated to a particular style of acting. In Template:Transliteration, the hairdressers carry out the decisions of stewards who choose the hairstyles. In sumo, Template:Transliteration are seen as essential elements of the sport, helping to maintain its traditional appearance.
Traditional theaterEdit
KabukiEdit
In kabuki, the hairstyle, and more specifically the wig, is an important element of the art, as no actor appears on stage without one.Template:Sfn The craftsmen who comb the actors' hair are called Template:Transliteration.Template:Sfn They are not responsible for creating the wigs (which is the responsibility of wig makers called the Template:Transliteration), but for fitting and finishing them before the actors go on stage.Template:Sfn Kabuki Template:Transliteration are the only ones to be divided into groups called Template:Nihongo and Template:Nihongo.Template:Sfn These names were inspired by the floors of the Kabuki-za on which the Template:Transliteration work on their wigs.<ref name="kabukiza">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> With each group of Template:Transliteration comes a specialization, and the 'second floor' Template:Transliteration specialize in styling the hair of actors playing female roles, while the 'third floor' specialize in styling male characters.Template:Sfn Cases where a Template:Transliteration does not specialize are rare, but they do exist.<ref name="kabukibito">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Kabuki Template:Transliteration are assigned to specific actors on a full-time basis.<ref name="kabukiza"/><ref name="kabukibito"/>
Template:TransliterationEdit
In Template:Transliteration, puppets are coiffed like real actors.<ref name="jafoundation">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Transliteration puppet theater is organized into two guilds. One, the Template:Transliteration, groups together the artists (Template:Transliteration players, puppeteers and narrators), while the other, the National Bunraku Theatre, groups together the support professions (costume and doll-head stewards). Template:Transliteration belong to the latter organization.<ref name="jafoundation"/> Unlike in kabuki, the Template:Transliteration in Template:Transliteration are responsible for both creating the wig and styling it.<ref name="jafoundation"/> In Template:Transliteration, the Template:Transliteration receives instructions from the Template:Transliteration, a theater steward selecting puppet heads from about 400 options, to show subtle differences in what the characters are expressing.Template:Sfn Once the wig has been chosen, the Template:Transliteration is then responsible for styling it to match the puppet.Template:Sfn There are about 120 different hairstyles, with about 80 for men and 40 for women.<ref name="jafoundation"/>
SumoEdit
Template:See also In professional sumo, the Template:Transliteration are employed by the Japan Sumo Association to cut and prepare wrestlers' hair, which is then styled in a Template:Transliteration style.<ref name="sumo101">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Historically, wrestlers went to public barbershops to get their hair done.Template:Sfn However, during the Meiji era, traditional barbers gradually disappeared as Western hairstyles became fashionable.Template:SfnTemplate:Sfn To continue styling the hair of wrestlers who had maintained the tradition of wearing the Template:Transliteration topknot, Template:Transliteration were borrowed for a time from kabuki theaters to serve wrestlers during tournaments.Template:SfnTemplate:Sfn Eventually, Template:Transliteration became an integral part of professional sumo and began training specifically to style the wrestlers' hair.Template:Sfn
Today, the Sumo Association employs the Template:Transliteration and ranks them according to experience and ability.Template:Sfn There are around 50 Template:Transliteration employed by the Sumo Association at all times,Template:Sfn<ref name="nhk2">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> but new positions can be created if a stable with more than 12 wrestlers and no hairdresser requests so.<ref name=waraku>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Apprentices, all men aged 15 to 19,<ref name=waraku/> are attached to a sumo stable like other personnel such as Template:Transliteration (referee) or Template:Transliteration (handymen).Template:SfnTemplate:SfnTemplate:Sfn Stables that do not have their own Template:Transliteration can rely on hairdressers from other stables belonging to the same Template:Transliteration (clan) to do their wrestlers' hair.Template:SfnTemplate:Sfn Each Template:Transliteration learns his trade from a senior member of staff.Template:Sfn If a Template:Transliteration's stable doesn't have a more experienced hairdresser, a hairdresser from the same Template:Transliteration will take over the apprenticeship.<ref name=waraku/> Template:Transliteration must train for at least seven years before they are considered capable of working on their own.Template:Sfn Only the most senior Template:Transliteration are entitled to prepare the more ornate Template:Transliteration, the ginkgo leaf shaped topknot which Template:Transliteration-ranked wrestlers wear in their bouts and on other formal occasions.Template:Sfn This usually only happens after ten years' experience.Template:SfnTemplate:Sfn
Template:Transliteration are divided into a hierarchical system that does not follow the names of sumo divisions, unlike the Template:Transliteration and Template:Transliteration.<ref name="nhk"/> Beginners start at Template:Nihongo and are promoted according to their years of service and skills until they reach Template:Nihongo.<ref name="nhk"/> Template:Transliteration are not considered qualified craftsmen (Template:Transliteration) until they are promoted to the rank of Template:Nihongo.<ref name="nito">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Promotion to third class takes around 10 years, while promotion to second and first class takes around 20 and 30 years respectively.<ref name=waraku/> When promoted to second class, Template:Transliteration receive a higher salary and a bonus during tournaments.<ref name="nito"/> When they have reached first class and have demonstrated exceptional skill, Template:Transliteration can ascend to Template:Transliteration, or 'special class' Template:Transliteration.<ref name="nhk"/> Promotion to this rank has very strict prerequisites and the Template:Transliteration must have served for around 45 years and have demonstrated "excellent talents".<ref name=waraku/><ref name="nhk"/> There is normally a maximum of two Template:Transliteration at this rank,<ref name="sumo101"/> although three special class Template:Transliteration coexisted in 2019 (Tokohachi, Tokomatsu and Tokoyodo).<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Special class Template:Transliteration are the only ones allowed to style the topknot of a Template:Transliteration, a sumo wrestler of the highest rank.<ref name="sumo101"/> Template:Transliteration are subject to mandatory retirement at the age of 65.Template:Sfn
In professional sumo, Template:Transliteration work under a pseudonym that always starts with the kanji for 'floor' or 'bed' ({{#invoke:Lang|lang}}, pronounced Template:Transliteration) in their names.Template:Sfn The rest of the Template:Transliteration's name is usually derived from a kanji in his personal name, or from a kanji borrowed from the stable to which he belongs.Template:Sfn<ref name="nhk">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Unlike Template:Transliteration, Template:Transliteration names cannot be passed on and are therefore unique.<ref name=waraku/>
Special class Template:Transliteration have also appeared on the Template:Transliteration since January 2008 and in January 2012, first-class Template:Transliteration were also added.<ref name=waraku/>
Wrestlers' hairstyles are so important in the culture of sumo that the Template:Transliteration profession is highly valued, with some former wrestlers employing their own hairdressers on their own money, like Taihō.Template:Sfn Some wrestlers create close ties with their hairdresser, such as former Template:Transliteration Hakuhō, whose hair was combed throughout his career by the same Template:Transliteration, former special class Template:Transliteration Tokohachi.<ref name="nhk2"/><ref name="Asahi2">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The importance of Template:Transliteration also extends to the founding of new stables, as their opening may be called into question if they are unable to obtain a hairdresser.Template:Sfn
Styling the haircutEdit
Depending on the environment in which they work, Template:Transliteration may use strictly traditional tools, while others have more freedom and also use modern tools. Regardless of their professional environment, all the Template:Transliteration use a special ointment called Template:Transliteration (also spelled Template:Transliteration), renowned for its sturdiness, making it ideal for elaborate hairstyles.Template:SfnTemplate:Sfn<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In sumo, the Template:Transliteration only use Template:Transliteration produced by a company in Edogawa, Tokyo.<ref name="flash">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In Template:Transliteration, Template:Transliteration can make the most use of modern tools in hairstyling, such as hairsprays and hair dryers.Template:Sfn However, they can not use oil in puppet headgear, as the puppet heads, made of cypress, would lose adhesion when color pigments are applied during restoration.<ref name="jafoundation"/>Template:Sfn
In both sumo and kabuki, the Template:Transliteration use two kinds of oil (called Template:Transliteration and Template:Transliteration) produced specifically for the manufacture of wigs.<ref name="kabukibito2">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Sumo Template:Transliteration use a Template:Transliteration ointment made traditionally from rapeseed, Japan wax and vanilla fragrance.<ref name="flash"/><ref name="Asahi1">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> This ointment has a distinctive scent that is associated with professional sumo.<ref name="Asahi1"/><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Professional sumo and kabuki Template:Transliteration use combs and picks of various sizes.Template:Sfn<ref name="kabukibito2"/> The special handmade combs are called Template:Transliteration.Template:Sfn Generally, these tools were made in the Kyoto Prefecture,Template:Sfn although it seems that the last company to manufacture them is now based in Nagoya.<ref name="sumo101"/> Each type of comb is made from a different type of wood.<ref name="greatbig">Template:Cite AV media</ref> An Template:Transliteration comb is first used on the hair, followed by a Template:Transliteration to spread out the ointment and shine the hair.<ref name="flash"/><ref name="greatbig"/> A Template:Transliteration is used to tidy up the hair when everything is done.<ref name="greatbig"/> A Template:Transliteration is used only to make the Template:Transliteration style of topknot, where the hair is then spread out using a metal pick called a Template:Transliteration.<ref name="flash"/><ref name="greatbig"/> In sumo, it is also common for Template:Transliteration to grow a thumbnail to facilitate styling.Template:Sfn
As of the 2020s, however, it is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain the traditional tools and balms used to style the haircuts, as the craftsmen who produce them are all gradually retiring without replacement.<ref name="Asahi1"/> This is notably the case of paper strings (called Template:Transliteration) used to tie up the hair of sumo wrestlers and kabuki actors' wigs,<ref name="kabukibito2"/> which were made by just one craftsman in Iida, Nagano until he was forced to close down his business for good in 2020, when all activities requiring his strings (sumo, kabuki, period drama) ceased due to COVID-19.<ref name="Asahi1"/> In recent years, however, a few craftsmen have taken over the traditional manufacturing activities and two craftsmen now continue to produce Template:Transliteration.<ref>Template:Cite AV media</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Ointment for wrestlers' heads is also in short supply, with fewer and fewer companies able to manufacture it due particularly to recruitment difficulties and the lack of a market with sufficient demand, and existing family businesses are unable to continue their activities after the current managers retire.<ref name="Asahi1"/>
See alsoEdit
ReferencesEdit
NotesEdit
BibliographyEdit
Traditional theatreEdit
SumoEdit
- Template:Cite book
- Template:Cite book
- Template:Cite book
- Template:Cite book
- Template:Cite book
- Template:Cite book
External linksEdit
- List of current Template:Transliteration at the Japan Sumo Association site (in Japanese)
- Template:YouTube - Sumo Prime Time traditional sumo headdress episode