Editing Hakama (section)

==Men's {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}==
While {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} used to be a required part of menswear, nowadays typical Japanese men usually wear {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} only on extremely formal occasions and at [[Japanese tea ceremony|tea ceremonies]], weddings, and funerals. {{transliteration|ja|Hakama}} are also regularly worn by practitioners of a variety of [[martial arts]], such as [[kendo]], [[iaido]], [[taidō]], [[aikido]], [[jōdō]], [[ryū-te]], and [[kyūdō]]. [[Sumo]] wrestlers, who do not wear {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} in the context of their sport, are, however, required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever they appear in public. As {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} are one of the most important parts of traditional male formal dress, sumo wrestlers are often seen wearing {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} when attending appropriately formal functions.

In addition to martial artists, {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} are also part of the everyday wear of Shinto {{transliteration|ja|[[kannushi]]}}, priests who maintain and perform services at [[shrines]].

{{transliteration|ja|Hakama}} are worn with any type of kimono except {{transliteration|ja|[[yukata]]}}<ref>{{cite web |title=Japanese hakama: Past and Present |url=https://kyotokimono-rental.com/en/column/japanese-hakama-past-present.html |website=Kyoto Kimono Rental Wargo |date=24 May 2016}}</ref> (light cotton summer kimono generally worn for relaxing, for sleeping or at festivals or summer outings). While glossy black-and-white striped {{transliteration|ja|sendaihira hakama}} are usually worn with formal kimono, stripes in colours other than black, grey and white are worn with less formal wear. Solid and graduated ([[ombré]]) colours are also common. For casual wear, men sometimes wear {{transliteration|ja|haori nagashi}} (kimono with just a {{transliteration|ja|haori}} and no {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}) or {{transliteration|ja|kinagashi}} (kimono alone, as for {{transliteration|ja|yukata}}).<ref name="mimi">{{cite web |last1=Mimi |title=【Male Article】Type and Difference of Kimono |url=https://mangadejapan.com/articles/detail/1010 |website=Manga de Japan |language=ja}}</ref>

==={{transliteration|ja|Sendaihira hakama}}===
[[File:MoriokaStudenten.JPG|thumb|International students in formal {{transliteration|ja|montsuki-haori-hakama}}. {{transliteration|ja|Sendaihira hakama}}, some of them [[ombré]]]]
The most formal type of men's {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}, {{transliteration|ja|sendaihira hakama}}, are made of stiff, striped [[silk]], usually black and white, or black and navy blue. These are worn with black {{transliteration|ja|montsuki}} kimono (kimono with one, three, or five family [[Mon (emblem)|crests]] on the back, chest, and shoulders), white {{transliteration|ja|[[tabi]]}} (divided-toe socks), white {{transliteration|ja|nagajuban}} (under-kimono) and various types of footwear. In cooler weather, a {{transliteration|ja|montsuki [[haori]]}} (long jacket) with a white {{transliteration|ja|haori-himo}} ({{transliteration|ja|haori}}-fastener) completes the outfit.

Traditionally made of silk, {{transliteration|ja|sendaihira hakama}} are sometimes made with blends.<ref>{{cite web |title=Canadian Iaido Association » Apparel Rules |url=http://www.iaido.ca/regulations/clothing/ |language=en}}</ref> {{transliteration|ja|Sendaihira}} is woven with a dense warp. Traditionally, the weft is woven wet, and beaten firmly into place to make it denser. The silk strands are not twisted, and are treated in [[lye]]. These techniques makes the cloth glossy and the pattern very small-scale and precise.<ref name="NK">{{cite web |title=Handbook for the Appreciation of Japanese Traditional Crafts |url=https://www.nihon-kogeikai.com/TEBIKI-E/2.html |website=Nihon Kogeikai |access-date=17 July 2021 |archive-date=17 July 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210717184639/https://www.nihon-kogeikai.com/TEBIKI-E/2.html |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref name="sendaihira">{{cite web |title=袴地の最高峰ブランド「仙臺平」―合資会社仙台平 販売について |url=https://sendaihira.jp/english.html |website=sendaihira.jp |access-date=17 July 2021}}</ref>

==={{transliteration|ja|Ōguchi-hakama, Uenobakama}}===
Both {{transliteration|ja|ōguchi-hakama}} and {{transliteration|ja|uenobakama}} are simultaneously worn with the courtly attire of {{nihongo||束帯|[[sokutai]]}}. The {{nihongo||大口袴|ōguchi-hakama}} are red under-pants, with closed crotch, tied off on the wearer's left. The {{nihongo||表袴|uenobakama}}, white and with an open fly, is then worn over the {{transliteration|ja|ōguchi-hakama}}, tied off on the right. These {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} designs can be traced to the [[Nara period]].{{cn|date=June 2022}}

==={{transliteration|ja|Kamishimo: kataginu}} and {{transliteration|ja|naga-bakama}}===
{{multiple image
 | width = 200
 | footer = 
 | image1 = Kimono-hakama-p1000698.jpg
 | alt1 = 
 | caption1 = An Edo-period {{transliteration|ja|kamishimo}} ensemble, with the {{transliteration|ja|kataginu}} and kimono on the left and the {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} to the right
 | image2 = Yoshitoshi - 100 Aspects of the Moon - 92.jpg
 | alt2 = 
 | caption2 = {{transliteration|ja|Kataginu}} with {{transliteration|ja|naga-bakama}}, 1800s court dress
}}

{{transliteration|ja|Hakama}} traditionally formed part of a complete outfit called a {{nihongo||上下/裃|kamishimo}}. Worn by samurai and courtiers during the Edo period, the outfit included a formal kimono, {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}, and a sleeveless jacket with exaggerated shoulders called a {{transliteration|ja|kataginu}}.

Samurai visiting the {{transliteration|ja|[[shōgun]]}} and other high-ranking {{transliteration|ja|[[daimyō]]}} at court were sometimes required to wear very long {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} called {{transliteration|ja|naga-bakama}} ({{lit|long {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}}}). These resemble normal {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} in every way except their remarkable length in both the back and front, forming a train one or two feet long and impeding the ability to walk normally, thus helping to prevent a surprise attack or assassination attempt.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/kosode/9.htm|title=Warrior in ceremonial costume; kataginu (=sleeveless jacket) and naga-bakama trousers, popularly known as kamishimo dress}}</ref> {{transliteration|ja|Naga-bakama}} are now only worn particularly in [[Noh]] plays (including {{transliteration|ja|[[kyōgen]]}}), [[kabuki]] plays, and Shinto rituals.

==={{transliteration|ja|Karusan-bakama}}===
Some {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} during the [[Sengoku period]] had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called {{transliteration|ja|karusan-bakama}}. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth—looking rather like a pants cuff—sewn around each leg's hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}. This variety of {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} was also commonly known as {{transliteration|ja|tattsuke-hakama}}.

==={{transliteration|ja|Sashinuki hakama}}===
[[File:Temple Shinto Meiji-jingū à Tokyo J (1).jpg|thumb|left|{{transliteration|ja|Sashinuki hakama}} at Meiji shrine]]
{{nihongo||[[wiktionary:指貫|指貫]]|Sashinuki}}, also called {{transliteration|ja|nu-bakama}}, are a type of {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a "ballooning" effect. To allow for the body required, more formal {{transliteration|ja|sashinuki}} featured six panels rather than four. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes {{transliteration|ja|sashinuki}} a type of {{transliteration|ja|kukuri-}} (tied) {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}. The earliest form of {{transliteration|ja|sashinuki}} were cut like normal {{transliteration|ja|hakama}} (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. {{transliteration|ja|Sashinuki}} were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

==={{transliteration|ja|Yoroi hakama}}===
[[Image:Kikko ko-bakama.jpg|thumb|{{transliteration|ja|Kikko kobakama}}, short trousers with {{transliteration|ja|kikko}} armor sewn cloth of the front side, a type of {{transliteration|ja|yoroi hakama}} (armored trousers)]]
{{transliteration|ja|Yoroi hakama}} (armored trousers) had small armor plates or mail armor sewn to the cloth of the {{transliteration|ja|hakama}}. They were worn by samurai warriors.