Hakama
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Template:Nihongo are a type of traditional Japanese clothing. Originally stemming from Ku (Template:Lang-zh), the trousers worn by members of the Chinese imperial court in the Sui and Tang dynasties, this style was adopted by the Japanese in the form of Template:Transliteration in the 6th century. Template:Transliteration are tied at the waist and fall approximately to the ankles. They are worn over a kimono specially adapted for wearing Template:Transliteration, known as a Template:Transliteration.<ref>Template:Cite bookTemplate:Dead link</ref>
There are two types of Template:Transliteration: divided Template:Nihongo3 and undivided Template:Nihongo3. The Template:Transliteration type have divided legs, similar to trousers. Both of these types appear similar. A "mountain" or "field" type of Template:Transliteration was traditionally worn by field or forest workers. They are looser in the waist and narrower in the leg.
Template:Transliteration are secured by four straps (Template:Transliteration): two longer Template:Transliteration attached on either side of the front of the garment, and two shorter Template:Transliteration attached on either side of the rear. The rear of the garment may have a rigid trapezoidal section, called a Template:Nihongo. Below that on the inside, there may be a Template:NihongoTemplate:Citation needed (a spoon-shaped component sometimes referred to as a Template:Transliteration) which is tucked into the Template:Transliteration or Template:Transliteration at the rear, and helps to keep the Template:Transliteration in place.
Template:Transliteration, especially those for martial arts, may have seven deep pleats, two on the back and five on the front. Although they appear balanced, the arrangement of the front pleats (two to the right, three to the left) is asymmetrical, and as such is an example of asymmetry in Japanese aesthetics.
Historically, a boy would start wearing his first pair of Template:Transliteration from the age of five, as commemorated in Template:Transliteration; a similar practice to this, called "breeching", was seen in Europe up until the Victorian age, where boys would from then on start to wear breeches instead of dresses, as a recognition of coming of age.
Men's Template:TransliterationEdit
While Template:Transliteration used to be a required part of menswear, nowadays typical Japanese men usually wear Template:Transliteration only on extremely formal occasions and at tea ceremonies, weddings, and funerals. Template:Transliteration are also regularly worn by practitioners of a variety of martial arts, such as kendo, iaido, taidō, aikido, jōdō, ryū-te, and kyūdō. Sumo wrestlers, who do not wear Template:Transliteration in the context of their sport, are, however, required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever they appear in public. As Template:Transliteration are one of the most important parts of traditional male formal dress, sumo wrestlers are often seen wearing Template:Transliteration when attending appropriately formal functions.
In addition to martial artists, Template:Transliteration are also part of the everyday wear of Shinto Template:Transliteration, priests who maintain and perform services at shrines.
Template:Transliteration are worn with any type of kimono except Template:Transliteration<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> (light cotton summer kimono generally worn for relaxing, for sleeping or at festivals or summer outings). While glossy black-and-white striped Template:Transliteration are usually worn with formal kimono, stripes in colours other than black, grey and white are worn with less formal wear. Solid and graduated (ombré) colours are also common. For casual wear, men sometimes wear Template:Transliteration (kimono with just a Template:Transliteration and no Template:Transliteration) or Template:Transliteration (kimono alone, as for Template:Transliteration).<ref name="mimi">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Template:TransliterationEdit
The most formal type of men's Template:Transliteration, Template:Transliteration, are made of stiff, striped silk, usually black and white, or black and navy blue. These are worn with black Template:Transliteration kimono (kimono with one, three, or five family crests on the back, chest, and shoulders), white Template:Transliteration (divided-toe socks), white Template:Transliteration (under-kimono) and various types of footwear. In cooler weather, a Template:Transliteration (long jacket) with a white Template:Transliteration (Template:Transliteration-fastener) completes the outfit.
Traditionally made of silk, Template:Transliteration are sometimes made with blends.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Transliteration is woven with a dense warp. Traditionally, the weft is woven wet, and beaten firmly into place to make it denser. The silk strands are not twisted, and are treated in lye. These techniques makes the cloth glossy and the pattern very small-scale and precise.<ref name="NK">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="sendaihira">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Template:TransliterationEdit
Both Template:Transliteration and Template:Transliteration are simultaneously worn with the courtly attire of Template:Nihongo. The Template:Nihongo are red under-pants, with closed crotch, tied off on the wearer's left. The Template:Nihongo, white and with an open fly, is then worn over the Template:Transliteration, tied off on the right. These Template:Transliteration designs can be traced to the Nara period.Template:Cn
Template:Transliteration and Template:TransliterationEdit
Template:Transliteration traditionally formed part of a complete outfit called a Template:Nihongo. Worn by samurai and courtiers during the Edo period, the outfit included a formal kimono, Template:Transliteration, and a sleeveless jacket with exaggerated shoulders called a Template:Transliteration.
Samurai visiting the Template:Transliteration and other high-ranking Template:Transliteration at court were sometimes required to wear very long Template:Transliteration called Template:Transliteration (Template:Lit). These resemble normal Template:Transliteration in every way except their remarkable length in both the back and front, forming a train one or two feet long and impeding the ability to walk normally, thus helping to prevent a surprise attack or assassination attempt.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Transliteration are now only worn particularly in Noh plays (including Template:Transliteration), kabuki plays, and Shinto rituals.
Template:TransliterationEdit
Some Template:Transliteration during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Template:Transliteration. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth—looking rather like a pants cuff—sewn around each leg's hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular Template:Transliteration. This variety of Template:Transliteration was also commonly known as Template:Transliteration.
Template:TransliterationEdit
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Template:Nihongo, also called Template:Transliteration, are a type of Template:Transliteration that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal Template:Transliteration, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a "ballooning" effect. To allow for the body required, more formal Template:Transliteration featured six panels rather than four. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes Template:Transliteration a type of Template:Transliteration (tied) Template:Transliteration. The earliest form of Template:Transliteration were cut like normal Template:Transliteration (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Template:Transliteration were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.
Template:TransliterationEdit
Template:Transliteration (armored trousers) had small armor plates or mail armor sewn to the cloth of the Template:Transliteration. They were worn by samurai warriors.
Women's Template:TransliterationEdit
Women's Template:Transliteration differ from men's in a variety of ways, most notably fabric design and method of tying.
While men's Template:Transliteration can be worn on both formal and informal occasions, women rarely wear Template:Transliteration, except at graduation ceremonies and for traditional Japanese sports such as kyūdō, some branches of aikido and kendo.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Women do not wear Template:Transliteration at tea ceremony. The image of women in kimono and Template:Transliteration are culturally associated with school teachers. Just as university professors in Western countries don their academic caps and gowns when their students graduate, many female school teachers in Japan attend annual graduation ceremonies in traditional kimono with Template:Transliteration.
Template:Transliteration are worn by Template:Transliteration or shrine maidens who assist in maintenance and ceremonies. A Template:Transliteration's uniform consists of a plain white kimono with a bright red Template:Transliteration, sometimes a red Template:Transliteration during formal ceremonies.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> This look stems from the attire worn by high-ranked aristocratic woman in the Heian era, as well as court performers such as Template:Transliteration.
While formal men's Template:Transliteration are made of striped fabric, women's formal Template:Transliteration are either a solid colour or dyed with graduating hues. Template:Transliteration for young women are sometimes sparsely decorated with embroidered flowers such as cherry blossoms. Women typically wear Template:Transliteration just below the bust line, while men wear them at the waist.
Dress reform and scholastic useEdit
Template:Transliteration have traditionally been worn as school wear. Before the advent of school uniforms in Japan, students wore everyday clothes, which included Template:Transliteration for men. In the Meiji period (1868–1912) and Taishō period (1912–1926), Western-style wear was adopted for school uniforms,<ref name=LJ123>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> initially for both male and female uniforms.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> However, at the time, Western women's dress was fairly cumbersome.
Utako Shimoda (1854–1936), a women's activist, educator and dress reformer, found traditional kimono to be too restrictive, preventing women and girls from moving and taking part in physical activities, harming their health. While Western dress was being adopted at the time, she also believed corsets to be restrictive and harmful to women's health.<ref name=intellectuals/> Shimoda had worked as a lady-in-waiting to Empress Shōken from 1871 to 1879.<ref name="Shimoda">Template:Cite journal</ref> She adapted the clothing worn by ladies-in-waiting at the Japanese imperial court to make a uniform for her Jissen Women's School. During the Meiji period and Taishō period, other women's schools also adopted the Template:Transliteration.<ref name=intellectuals>Template:Cite thesis Source says: "See Shimoda, "Honbō joshi fukusō no enkaku本邦女子服装の沿革 [The Historical Development of Women’s Clothing in Japan]," Part I, Onna, 31 January 1901, in Shimoda Utako chosakushū, vol. 1, 1-3; "Joshi no tainin no han’i ni tsukite," Nihon Fujin, 25 April 1900, in Shimoda Utako chosakushū, vol. 4, 107-127."</ref> It became standard wear for high schools in Japan,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> and is still worn for graduation ceremonies.
The image of women in Template:Transliteration is also culturally associated with school teachers. Just as university professors in Western countries don their academic caps and gowns when their students graduate, many female school teachers in Japan attend annual graduation ceremonies in traditional kimono with Template:Transliteration.
- Shimoda Utako in hifu and hakama.jpg
Shimoda Utako, women's activist, educator and dress reform advocate, in Template:Transliteration
- Jogakusei in Taisho period.JPG
A Taishō-era student
- 德川多惠子.jpg
An imperial princess in Template:Transliteration and Template:Transliteration
- Print from the series Streaked Mist by Ikeda Shōen 04.jpg
Wearing Template:Transliteration as reform dress, 1906
- Schoolmarm on the graduation ceremony 1953.jpg
Teacher in 1953
- Bowing-students-waseda-graduation2015.ogv
Two students (first and third from the left) wearing Template:Transliteration over Template:Transliteration at Waseda University graduation ceremony, 2015
Tying Template:TransliterationEdit
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There are many ways for men to tie Template:Transliteration. First, the Template:Transliteration is tied in a special knot (an "under-Template:Transliteration knot") at the rear. Starting with the front, the ties are brought around the waist and crossed over the top of the knot of the Template:Transliteration. The ties are brought to the front and crossed below the waist, then tied at the back, under the knot of the Template:Transliteration. The Template:Transliteration is then tucked behind the Template:Transliteration, the Template:Transliteration is adjusted, and the rear ties brought to the front and tied in a variety of ways. The most formal method results in a knot that resembles two bow-ties in a cross shape.
The method of tying the ties is also different, with women's Template:Transliteration being tied in a simpler knot or a bow. As with men's Template:Transliteration, the front ties are first brought to the back, then to the front, then tied at the back in a knot. Then the back Template:Transliteration are brought around to the front. At this point, they may be tied with a bow at the left hip, just in front of the opening, with the ends of the ties at equal lengths. For more secure fastening, the ties may be wrapped once at center front, then tied inside at the back.
Folding Template:TransliterationEdit
Like all types of traditional Japanese clothing, it is important to fold and store Template:Transliteration correctly to prevent damage and prolong the life of the garment, especially those made of silk. With Template:Transliteration this is particularly important, since Template:Transliteration have so many pleats which can easily lose their creases; re-creasing the pleats may require specialist attention in extreme cases.
Template:Transliteration are often considered particularly challenging to learn to fold properly, in part because of their pleats and in part because their long ties must be correctly smoothed and gathered before being tied in specific patterns.
Various martial arts traditions in which practitioners wear them have prescribed methods of folding the Template:Transliteration. This is often considered an important part of etiquette.
In some martial arts it is also an old tradition that the highest ranking student has the responsibility to fold the teacher's Template:Transliteration as a token of respect.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref>Template:Cite book</ref>
See alsoEdit
ReferencesEdit
Further readingEdit
- How to fold the Hakama, Southern California Naginata Federation.
- How to tie a Hakama, Bu Jin Design Corporation.
- How to wash a Hakama, Kendo America.