Denali

Denali (Template:IPAc-en),<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> federally designated as Mount McKinley,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:GNIS</ref> is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of Template:Convert above sea level. It is the tallest mountain in the world from base to peak on land, measuring Template:Convert.<ref name="Helman2005">Template:Cite book On p. 20 of Helman (2005):"the base to peak rise of Mount McKinley is the largest of any mountain that lies entirely above sea level, some Template:Convert".</ref> With a topographic prominence of Template:Convert<ref name="PeakVisor" /> and a topographic isolation of Template:Convert,<ref name="PeakVisor" /> Denali is the third most prominent and third-most isolated peak on Earth, after Mount Everest and Aconcagua. Located in the Alaska Range in the interior of the U.S. state of Alaska, Denali is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve.

The Koyukon people who inhabit the area around the mountain have referred to the peak as "Denali" for centuries. In 1896, a gold prospector named it "Mount McKinley" in support of then-presidential candidate William McKinley, who later became the 25th president; McKinley's name was the official name recognized by the federal government of the United States from 1917 until 2015. In August 2015, 40 years after Alaska had officially named the mountain Denali, the United States Department of the Interior under the Obama administration changed the official federal name of the mountain also to Denali.<ref name="DenaliNameChangeDOI">Template:Cite press release</ref><ref name="denalirestored">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="McKinley Name">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> On January 24, 2025, the Department of the Interior under the Trump administration changed the mountain's official federal name back to Mount McKinley.<ref name=":8">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name=":9">Template:Cite news</ref>

In 1903, James Wickersham recorded the first attempt at climbing Denali, which was unsuccessful. In 1906, Frederick Cook claimed the first ascent, but this ascent is unverified and its legitimacy questioned. The first verifiable ascent to Denali's summit was achieved on June 7, 1913, by climbers Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper, and Robert Tatum, who went by the South Summit. In 1951, Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, considered to be the safest and easiest route, and therefore the most popular currently in use.<ref name="roberts" />

On September 2, 2015, the U.S. Geological Survey measured the mountain at Template:Convert high,<ref name=ADN/> 10 ft lower than the Template:Convert measured in 1952 using photogrammetry.

Geology and features

Denali is a granitic pluton, mostly pink quartz monzonite, lifted by tectonic pressure from the subduction of the Pacific Plate beneath the North American Plate; at the same time, the sedimentary material above and around the mountain was stripped away by erosion.<ref name="brease">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite journal</ref> The forces that lifted Denali also caused many deep earthquakes in Alaska and the Aleutian Islands. The Pacific Plate is seismically active beneath Denali, a tectonic region that is known as the "McKinley cluster".<ref name="hanson">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Structural geology

The high topography of Denali is related to the complex structural relationships created by the right-lateral Denali Fault and Denali Fault Bend. The Denali Fault is caused by stresses created by the low-angle subduction of the Yakutat microplate underneath Alaska. The Denali Fault Bend is characterized as a gentle restraining bend.<ref name=":3">Template:Cite journal</ref> The Denali Fault Bend represents a curvature in the Denali Fault that is approximately 75 km long. This curvature creates what is known as a "space problem". As the right-lateral movement along the Denali Fault continues, high compressional forces created at the fault bend essentially push the crust up in a vertical fashion. The longer the crust stays within the restraining bend, the higher the topography will be. Several active normal faults north of the restraining bend have recently been mapped with slip rates of approximately 2–6 mm/year.<ref name=":3" /> These normal faults help to accommodate the unusual curvature of the restraining bend.Template:Citation needed

Elevation

Denali has a summit elevation of Template:Convert above sea level, making it the highest peak in North America and the northernmost mountain above Template:Convert elevation in the world.<ref name="ADN" /> Measured from base to peak at some Template:Convert, it is among the largest mountains situated entirely above sea level. Denali rises from a sloping plain with elevations from Template:Convert, for a base-to-peak height of Template:Convert.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> By comparison, Mount Everest rises from the Tibetan Plateau at a much higher base elevation. Base elevations for Everest range from Template:Convert on the south side to Template:Convert on the Tibetan Plateau, for a base-to-peak height in the range of Template:Convert.<ref name="washburn_map">Template:Cite map Prepared for the Boston Museum of Science, the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, and the National Geographic Society</ref> Denali's base-to-peak height is little more than half the Template:Convert of the volcano Mauna Kea, which lies mostly under water.<ref name="natgeo">Template:Cite magazine</ref>

Geography of the mountain

Denali has two significant summits: the South Summit is the higher one, while the North Summit has an elevation of Template:Convert<ref name="brease" /> and a prominence of approximately Template:Convert.<ref name="pbnorth">Template:Cite peakbagger</ref> The North Summit is sometimes counted as a separate peak (see e.g., fourteener) and sometimes not; it is rarely climbed, except by those doing routes on the north side of the massif.

Five large glaciers flow off the slopes of the mountain. The Peters Glacier lies on the northwest side of the massif, while the Muldrow Glacier falls from its northeast slopes. Just to the east of the Muldrow, and abutting the eastern side of the massif, is the Traleika Glacier. The Ruth Glacier lies to the southeast of the mountain, and the Kahiltna Glacier leads up to the southwest side of the mountain.<ref name="areaparks">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="planetware">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> With a length of Template:Convert, the Kahiltna Glacier is the longest glacier in the Alaska Range.

Naming

{{#invoke:Labelled list hatnote|labelledList|Main article|Main articles|Main page|Main pages}} The Koyukon Athabaskans who inhabit the area around the mountain have for centuries referred to the peak as {{#invoke:Lang|lang}} or {{#invoke:Lang|lang}}. The name is based on a Koyukon word for 'high' or 'tall'.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> During the Russian ownership of Alaska, the common name for the mountain was {{#invoke:Lang|lang}} (Template:Langx; {{#invoke:Lang|lang}} 'big'; {{#invoke:Lang|lang}} 'mountain'), which is the Russian translation of Denali.<ref name=DictionaryOFAlaskaPlaceNames>Template:Cite bookTemplate:Dead link.</ref> It was briefly called Densmore's Mountain in the late 1880s and early 1890s<ref name="norrisv1-1">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> after Frank Densmore, a gold prospector who was the first non-native Alaskan to reach the base of the mountain.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>

In 1896, a gold prospector named it McKinley as political support for then-presidential candidate William McKinley, who became president the following year. The United States formally recognized the name Mount McKinley after President Woodrow Wilson signed the Mount McKinley National Park Act of February 26, 1917.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> In 1965, President Lyndon B. Johnson declared the north and south peaks of the mountain the "Churchill Peaks", in honor of British statesman Winston Churchill.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The Alaska Board of Geographic Names changed the state name of the mountain to Denali in 1975, which was how it was referred to locally.<ref name="McKinley Name"/><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> However, a request in 1975 from the Alaska state legislature to the United States Board on Geographic Names to do the same at the federal level was blocked by Ohio congressman Ralph Regula, whose district included McKinley's home town of Canton.<ref name="monmonier">Template:Cite book</ref>

On August 28, 2015, just ahead of a presidential visit to Alaska, the Barack Obama administration changed the mountain's official federal name to Denali,<ref name="DenaliNameChangeDOI" /> bringing it in line with the Alaska Geographic Board's designation.<ref name="denalirestored" /><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> U.S. Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell said the change had been "a long time coming".<ref name=ADNDenali>Template:Cite news</ref> The renaming of the mountain received praise from Alaska's senior U.S. senator, Republican Lisa Murkowski,<ref name=KNOM>Matthew Smith "Murkowski thanks Obama for restoring Denali", (video) Template:Webarchive Alaska Public Radio, KNOM, Nome, August 31, 2015. Retrieved September 1, 2015</ref> who had previously introduced legislation to accomplish the name change,<ref name=LATimes0830>Template:Cite news</ref> but it drew criticism from several politicians from President McKinley's home state of Ohio, such as Governor John Kasich, U.S. Senator Rob Portman, U.S. House Speaker John Boehner, and Representative Bob Gibbs, who described Obama's action as "constitutional overreach" because he said an act of Congress was required to rename the mountain.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> The Alaska Dispatch News reported that the secretary of the interior has authority under federal law to change geographic names when the Board of Geographic Names does not act on a naming request within a "reasonable" period of time. Jewell told the Alaska Dispatch News that "I think any of us would think that 40 years is an unreasonable amount of time."<ref name=ADNReax>Template:Cite news</ref>

In December 2024, President-elect Donald Trump stated that he planned to revert the mountain's official federal name back to Mount McKinley during his second term, in honor of President William McKinley. Trump had previously proposed changing the name in 2017, drawing opposition from Alaska's Republican governor Mike Dunleavy.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> His 2017 proposal was strongly opposed by both Republican U.S. senators from Alaska, Murkowski and Dan Sullivan,<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> who, along with Alaska State Senator Scott Kawasaki, a Democrat, again expressed their preference for Denali in 2024.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> On January 20, 2025, shortly after his second inauguration, Trump signed an executive order requiring the secretary of the interior to revert the Obama-era name change within 30 days of signing, renaming Denali back to Mount McKinley in official maps and communications from the American federal government.<ref name=":7">Template:Cite press release</ref> The executive order does not change the name of Denali National Park.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> On January 23, 2025, the Department of the Interior changed the mountain's official federal name back to Mount McKinley.<ref name=":8" /><ref name=":9" /> The same day, the Associated Press announced that it would use Mount McKinley instead of Denali, with the reasoning that as president, Trump has the authority to change federal geographical names of features lying within national borders.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Hudson Stuck, the organizer of the Stuck-Karstens Expedition, which was the first confirmed team to summit the mountain, preferred the name Denali over McKinley, referring to it as Denali nearly exclusively in his account of the expedition.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

According to the Alaska Department of Commerce, Community, and Economic Development's official database of business licenses, businesses named after Denali outnumber those named after McKinley by a margin of six to one.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

Indigenous names for Denali can be found in seven different Alaskan languages. The names fall into two categories. To the south of the Alaska Range in the Dena'ina and Ahtna languages the mountain is known by names that are translated as 'big mountain'. To the north of the Alaska Range in the Lower Tanana, Koyukon, Upper Kuskokwim, Holikachuk, and Deg Xinag languages the mountain is known by names that are translated as 'the high one',<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> 'the tall one' (Koyukon, Lower and Middle Tanana, Upper Kuskokwim, Deg Xinag, and Holikachuk).<ref name="karijamden">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Asked about the importance of the mountain and its name, Will Mayo, former president of the Tanana Chiefs Conference, an organization that represents 42 Athabaskan tribes in the Alaskan interior, said: "It's not one homogeneous belief structure around the mountain, but we all agree that we're all deeply gratified by the acknowledgment of the importance of Denali to Alaska's people."<ref name=mayochiefsconference>Template:Cite news</ref>

The following table lists the Alaskan Athabascan names for Denali.<ref name="karijamden"/>

Literal meaning	Native language	Spelling in the local practical alphabet	Spelling in a standardized alphabet	IPA transcription
'The tall one'	Koyukon	lang}}	lang}}	main}}
	Lower Tanana	lang}}	lang}}	main}}
	Middle Tanana	lang}}	lang}}	main}}
	Upper Kuskokwim	lang}}	lang}}	main}}
	Deg Xinag	lang}}	lang}}	main}}
	Holikachuk	lang}}	lang}}	main}}
'Big mountain'	Ahtna	lang}}	lang}}	main}}
	Upper Inlet Dena'ina	lang}}	lang}}	main}}
	Lower Inlet Dena'ina	lang}}	lang}}	main}}

History

File:Stuck.Karstens.jpg

Hudson Stuck and Harry Karstens, co-leaders of the first successful expedition of four to reach the summit of Denali in 1913, the other members of the expedition being Robert G. Tatum and Walter Harper

The Koyukon Athabaskans, living in the Yukon, Tanana and Kuskokwim basins, were the first Native Americans with access to the flanks of the mountain.<ref name="gnis">Template:Cite gnis</ref> A British naval captain and explorer, George Vancouver, is the first European on record to have sighted Denali, when he noted "distant stupendous mountains" while surveying the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet on May 6, 1794.Template:Sfn The Russian explorer Lavrenty Zagoskin explored the Tanana and Kuskokwim rivers in 1843 and 1844, and was likely the first European to sight the mountain from the other side.Template:Sfn

William Dickey, a New Hampshire-born resident of Seattle, Washington, who had been digging for gold in the sands of the Susitna River, wrote, after his returning from Alaska, an account in the New York Sun that appeared on January 24, 1897.Template:Sfn His report drew attention with the sentence "We have no doubt that this peak is the highest in North America, and estimate that it is over Template:Convert high." Until then, Mount Logan in Canada's Yukon Territory was believed to be the continent's highest point. Though later praised for his estimate, Dickey admitted that other prospector parties had also guessed the mountain to be over Template:Convert.<ref>Template:Cite book See, particularly, chapter 4 (pp. 52–61): "Discoveries in Alaska" Template:Webarchive, 1897, by William A. Dickey.</ref> These estimates were confirmed in 1898 by the surveyor Robert Muldrow, who measured its elevation as Template:Convert.<ref name=Stuck1918>Template:Cite book</ref>

On November 5, 2012, the United States Mint released a twenty-five cent piece depicting Denali National Park. It is the fifteenth of the America the Beautiful Quarters series. The reverse features a Dall sheep with the peak of Denali in the background.<ref name="parkquarters">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Climbing history

During the summer of 1902 scientist Alfred Brooks explored the flanks of the mountain as a part of an exploratory surveying party conducted by the U.S. Geological Survey. The party landed at Cook Inlet in late May, then traveled east, paralleling the Alaska Range, before reaching the slopes of Denali in early August. Camped on the flank of the mountain on August 3, Brooks noted later that while "the ascent of Mount McKinley had never been part of our plans", the party decided to delay one day so "that we might actually set foot on the slopes of the mountain". Setting off alone, with good weather, on August 4, Brooks aimed to reach a Template:Convert shoulder. At Template:Convert, Brooks found his way blocked by sheer ice and, after leaving a small cairn as a marker, descended.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> After the party's return, Brooks co-authored a "Plan For Climbing Mt McKinley", published in National Geographic magazine in January 1903, with fellow party-member and topographer D. L. Raeburn, in which they suggested that future attempts at the summit should approach from the north, not the south.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> The report received substantial attention, and within a year, two climbing parties declared their intent to summit.<ref name=Sfraga1997>Template:Cite book</ref>

During the early summer of 1903, Judge James Wickersham, then of Eagle, Alaska, made the first recorded attempt to climb Denali, along with a party of four others. The group attempted to get as close to the mountain as possible via the Kantishna river by steamer, before offloading and following Chitsia Creek with a poling boat, mules and backpacks, a route suggested to them by Tanana Athabaskan people they met along the way. The party received further navigational assistance at Anotoktilon, an Athabaskan hunting camp, where residents gave the group detailed directions to reach the glaciers at the foot of Denali. On reaching the mountain, the mountaineers set up base camp on the lower portion of Peters Glacier. Aiming for the northwest buttress of Denali's north peak, they attempted to ascend directly; however, crevasses, ice fall and the lack of a clear passage caused them to turn and attempt to follow a spur via Jeffery Glacier where they believed they could see a way to the summit. After a dangerous ascent, at around Template:Convert, Wickersham found that the route did not connect as it had appeared from below, instead discovering "a tremendous precipice beyond which we cannot go. Our only line of further ascent would be to climb the vertical wall of the mountain at our left, and that is impossible." This wall, now known as the Wickersham Wall, juts Template:Convert upwards from the glacier to the north peak of Denali.<ref name=":0">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Because of the route's history of avalanche danger, it was not successfully climbed until 1963.Template:Sfn

Later in the summer of 1903, Dr. Frederick Cook directed a team of five men on another attempt at the summit. Cook was already an experienced explorer and had been a party-member on successful arctic expeditions commanded both by Robert Peary and Roald Amundsen.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">Template:Cite book</ref> Yet he struggled to obtain funding for his own expedition, eventually organizing it "on a shoestring budget"<ref name=":2">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> without any other experienced climbers.<ref name=":1" /> The party navigated up the Cook inlet and followed the path of the 1902 Brooks party towards Denali. Cook approached the mountain via the Peters Glacier, as Wickersham had done; however, he was able to overcome the ice fall that had caused the previous group to turn up the spur towards the Wickersham Wall. Despite avoiding this obstacle, on August 31, having reached an elevation of about Template:Convert on the northwest buttress of the north peak, the party found they had reached a dead end and could make no further progress. On the descent, the group completely circumnavigated the mountain, the first climbing party to do so.Template:Sfn Although Cook's 1903 expedition did not reach the summit, he received acclaim for the accomplishment – a 1,000-mile (1,609 km) trek in which he not only circled the entire mountain but also found, on the descent, an accessible pass northeast of the Muldrow Glacier following the headwaters of the Toklat and Chulitna rivers.<ref name=":0" />

In 1906, Cook initiated another expedition to Denali with co-leader Herschel Parker, a Columbia University professor of electrical engineering with extensive mountaineering experience. Belmore Browne, an experienced climber and five other men comprised the rest of the group. Cook and Parker's group spent most of the summer season exploring the southern and southeastern approaches to the mountain, eventually reaching a high point on Tokositna glacier, Template:Convert from the summit.Template:Sfn During their explorations the party mapped out many of the tributaries and glaciers of the Susitna river along the mountain's south flank.<ref name=":0" /> As the summer ended, the team retreated to the coast and began to disperse. In September 1906, Cook and a single party-member, horseman Robert Barrill, journeyed towards the summit again, in what Cook later described as "a last desperate attempt" in a telegram to his financial backers.<ref name=":0" /> Cook and Barrill spent 12 days in total on the attempt, and claimed to have reached the summit via the Ruth Glacier.<ref name=":2" />

Upon hearing Cook's claims, Parker and Browne were immediately suspicious. Browne later wrote that he knew Cook's claims were lies, just as "any New Yorker would know that no man could walk from the Brooklyn Bridge to Grant's Tomb [a distance of eight miles] in ten minutes."<ref name=":2" /> In May 1907, Harper's Magazine published Cook's account of the climb along with a photograph of what appeared to be Barrill standing on the summit. By 1909, Barrill had recanted at least part of his story about the climb, and others publicly questioned the account; however, Cook continued to assert his claim.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The controversy continued for decades. In 1956, mountaineers Bradford Washburn and Walter Gonnason tried to settle the matter, with Gonnason attempting to follow Cook's purported route to the summit. Washburn noted inconsistencies between Cook's account of locations of glaciers and found a spot, at Template:Convert and Template:Convert southeast of the summit that appeared identical to the supposed summit image. Gonnason was not able to complete the climb, but because he was turned back by poor weather, felt that this did not definitely disprove Cook's story.<ref>Template:Cite magazine</ref> In 1998, historian Robert Bryce discovered an original and un-cropped version of the "fake peak" photograph of Barrill standing on the promontory. It showed a wider view of surrounding features, appearing to definitively discount Cook's claim.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

File:Denali high camp.jpg

High camp (Template:Convert) of the West Buttress Route pioneered by Bradford Washburn, photographed in 2001

Given the skepticism concerning Cook's story, interest in claiming the first ascent remained. Miners and other Alaskans living in Kantishna and Fairbanks wanted the honors to go to local men. In 1909, four Alaska residents – Tom Lloyd, Peter Anderson, Billy Taylor, and Charles McGonagall – set out from Fairbanks, Alaska during late December with supplies and dogs that were in part paid for by bettors in a Fairbanks tavern. By March 1910, the men had established a base camp near one of the sites where the Brooks party had been and pressed on from the north via the Muldrow glacier. Unlike some previous expeditions, they discovered a pass, since named McGonagall Pass, which allowed them to bypass the Wickersham Wall and access the higher reaches of the mountain. At roughly Template:Convert, Tom Lloyd, old and less physically fit than the others, stayed behind. According to their account, the remaining three men pioneered a route following Karstens Ridge around the Harper Icefall, then reached the upper basin before ascending to Pioneer Ridge. The three men carried a Template:Convert spruce pole. Around Template:Convert, Charles McGonagall, older and having exhausted himself carrying the spruce pole, remained behind. On April 3, 1910, Billy Taylor and Peter Anderson scrambled the final few hundred feet to reach the north peak of Denali, at Template:Convert high, the shorter of the two peaks. The pair erected the pole near the top, with the hope that it would be visible from lower reaches to prove they had made it.<ref name=":4">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

After the expedition, Tom Lloyd returned to Fairbanks, while the three others remained in Kantishna to mine. In Lloyd's recounting, all four men made it to the top of not only the north peak, but the higher south peak as well. When the remaining three men returned to town with conflicting accounts, the entire expedition's legitimacy was questioned.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Several years later, another climbing group would claim to have seen the spruce pole in the distance, supporting their north peak claim.<ref name=":4" /> However, some continue to doubt they reached the summit. Outside of the single later climbing group, who were friendly with some of the Sourdough expedition men, no other group would ever see it. Jon Waterman, author of the book Chasing Denali, which explored the controversy, outlined several reasons to doubt the claim: There was never any photographic evidence. The four men climbed during the winter season, known for much more difficult conditions, along a route that has never been fully replicated. They were inexperienced climbers, ascending without any of the usual safety gear or any care for altitude sickness. They claimed to have ascended from Template:Convert to the top in less than 18 hours, unheard of at a time when siege-style alpinism was the norm.<ref name=":5">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Yet Waterman says "these guys were men of the trail. They didn't care what anybody thought. They were just tough SOBs."<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> He noted that the men were largely unlettered and that some of the ensuing doubt was related to their lack of sophistication in dealing with the press and the contemporary climbing establishment.<ref name=":5" />

In 1912, the Parker-Browne expedition nearly reached the summit, turning back within just a few hundred yards/meters of it due to harsh weather. On July 7, the day after their descent, a 7.4-magnitude earthquake shattered the glacier they had ascended.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref>Template:Cite book</ref>

The first ascent of the main summit of Denali came on June 7, 1913, by a party directed by Hudson Stuck and Harry Karstens, along with Walter Harper and Robert Tatum. Karstens relocated to Alaska in the gold rush of 1897, and in subsequent years became involved in a variety of endeavors beyond mining, including helping establish dog mushing routes to deliver mail across vast swathes of territory and supporting expeditions led by naturalist Charles Sheldon near the base of Denali.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Stuck was an English-born Episcopal priest who came to Alaska by chance. He became acclimated to the often harsh Alaskan environment because of his many travels between far-flung outposts within his district, climbing mountains as a hobby.<ref name=":6">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> At 21 years old, Harper was already known as a skilled and strong outdoorsman, the Alaska-born son of a Koyukon-Athabascan mother and Irish gold prospector father.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite magazine</ref> Tatum, also 21 years old, was a theology student working at a Tanana mission, and the least experienced of the team. His primary responsibility on the trip was as a cook.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>

The team approached the peak from the north via the Muldrow glacier and McGonagall pass. While ferrying loads up to a camp at around Template:Convert, they suffered a setback when a stray match accidentally set fire to some supplies, including several tents. The prior year's earthquake had left what had previously been described by the Parker-Browne expedition as a gentle slope ascended in no more than three days as a dangerous, ice-strewn morass on a knife-edged ridge (later named Karstens ridge). It would take the team three weeks to cover the same ground, as Karstens and Harper laboriously cut steps into the ice. On May 30, the team, with the help of some good weather, ascended to a new high camp, situated at Template:Convert in the Grand Basin between the north and south peaks. On June 7, the team made the summit attempt. Temperatures were below Template:Convert at times. Every man, and particularly Stuck, suffered from altitude sickness. By midday, Harper became the first climber to reach the summit, followed seconds later by Tatum and Karstens. Stuck arrived last, falling unconscious on the summit.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Using the mountain's contemporary name, Tatum later commented, "The view from the top of Mount McKinley is like looking out the windows of Heaven!"Template:Sfn During the climb, Stuck spotted, via binoculars, the presence of a large pole near the North Summit; this report confirmed the Sourdough ascent, and it is widely believed presently that the Sourdoughs did succeed on the North Summit. However, the pole was never seen before or since, so there is still some doubt. Stuck also discovered that the Parker-Browne party were only about Template:Convert of elevation short of the true summit when they turned back. Stuck and Karstens' team achieved the uncontroversial first ascent of Denali's south peak; however, the news was met with muted interest by the wider climbing community. Appalachia Journal, then the official journal of the American Alpine Club, published a small notice of the accomplishment a year later.<ref name=":6" />

The mountain is climbed regularly nowadays. In 2003, around 58% of climbers reached the top. But by that time, the mountain had claimed the lives of nearly 100 mountaineers.<ref name="glickman">Template:Cite news</ref> The vast majority of climbers use the West Buttress Route, pioneered in 1951 by Bradford Washburn,<ref name="roberts">Template:Cite journal</ref> after an extensive aerial photographic analysis of the mountain. Climbers typically take two to four weeks to ascend Denali. It is one of the Seven Summits; summiting all of them is a challenge for mountaineers.

Accidents

From 1947 to 2018 in the United States "2,799 people were reported to be involved in mountaineering accidents"<ref name="14 June 2022">Template:Cite journal</ref> and 11% of these accidents occurred on Denali.<ref name="14 June 2022"/> Of these 2,799 accidents, 43% resulted in death and 8% of these deaths occurred on Denali.<ref name="14 June 2022"/>

Timeline

File:McKinelyWestbuttress.jpg

Denali's West Buttress (lower left to upper right), August 2010

File:Mount Mckinley 3D.gif

A three-dimensional representation of the mountain created with topographic data

• 1896–1902: Surveys by Robert Muldrow, George Eldridge, Alfred Brooks.Template:Sfn
• 1913: First ascent, by Hudson Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper, and Robert Tatum via the Muldrow Glacier route.<ref>Stuck, Hudson. The Ascent of Denali.</ref>
• 1932: Second ascent, by Alfred Lindley, Harry Template:Not a typo, Grant Pearson, Erling Strom. (Both peaks were climbed.)Template:Sfn<ref name="verschoth">Template:Cite news</ref>
• 1947: Barbara Washburn becomes the first woman to reach the summit while her husband Bradford Washburn becomes the first person to summit twice.Template:Sfn
• 1951: First ascent of the West Buttress Route, led by Bradford Washburn.<ref name="roberts" />
• 1954: First ascent of the very long South Buttress Route by George Argus, Elton Thayer (died on descent), Morton Wood, and Les Viereck. Deteriorating conditions behind the team pushed them to make the first traverse of Denali. The Great Traleika Cirque, where they camped just below the summit, was renamed Thayer Basin, in honor of the fallen climber.<ref name="nps-climbinghistory" /><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• 1954 (May 27) First ascent via Northwest Buttress to North Peak by Fred Beckey, Donald McLean, Charles Wilson, Henry Meybohm, and Bill Hackett<ref>Selters, Andy (2004) Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO: the American Alpine Club Press. Template:ISBN</ref>
• 1959: First ascent of the West Rib, now a popular, mildly technical route to the summit.<ref name="nps-climbinghistory" />
• 1961: First ascent of the Cassin Ridge, named for Riccardo Cassin and the best-known technical route on the mountain.<ref name="summitpost">Template:Cite summitpost</ref> The first ascent team members are: Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Airoldi, Luigi Alippi, Giancarlo Canali, Romano Perego, and Annibale Zucchi.<ref name="supertopo" /><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

File:Denali3.jpg

South view from Template:Convert

• 1962: First ascent of the southeast spur, team of six climbers (C. Hollister, H. Abrons, B. Everett, Jr., S. Silverstein, S. Cochrane, and C. Wren)<ref name="look 19621009">Template:Cite magazine</ref>
• 1963: A team of six climbers (W. Blesser, P. Lev, R. Newcomb, A. Read, J. Williamson, F. Wright) made the first ascent of the East Buttress. The summit was attained via Thayer Basin and Karstens Ridge. See AAJ 1964.
• 1963: Two teams make first ascents of two different routes on the Wickersham Wall.<ref name="geiger">Template:Cite book</ref><ref name="natgeo2">Template:Cite magazine</ref>
• 1967: First winter ascent, via the West Buttress, by Gregg Blomberg, Dave Johnston, Art Davidson and Ray Genet.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• 1967: The 1967 Mount McKinley disaster; Seven members of Joe Wilcox's twelve-man expedition perish, while stranded for ten days near the summit, in what has been described as the worst storm on record. Up to that time, this was the third worst disaster in mountaineering history in terms of lives lost.<ref name="tabor">Template:Cite book</ref> Before July 1967 only four men had ever perished on Denali.<ref name="babcock">Template:Cite book</ref>
• 1970: First solo ascent by Naomi Uemura.Template:Sfn
• 1970: First ascent by an all-female team (the "Denali Damsels"), led by Grace Hoeman and the later famous American high altitude mountaineer Arlene Blum together with Margaret Clark, Margaret Young, Faye Kerr and Dana Smith Isherwood.Template:Sfn<ref name="nps-climbinghistory" />
• 1972: First descent on skis down the sheer southwest face, by Sylvain Saudan, "Skier of the Impossible".<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• 1976: First solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge by Charlie Porter, a climb "ahead of its time".<ref

name="supertopo">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• 1979: First ascent by dog team achieved by Susan Butcher, Ray Genet, Brian Okonek, Joe Redington, Sr., and Robert Stapleton.<ref name="nps-climbinghistory">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• 1984: Uemura returns to make the first winter solo ascent, but dies after summitting.<ref name=aaj_1985_1/> Tono Križo, František Korl and Blažej Adam from the Slovak Mountaineering Association climb a very direct route to the summit, now known as the Slovak Route, on the south face of the mountain, to the right of the Cassin Ridge.<ref name=aaj_1985_2/>
• 1988: First successful winter solo ascent. Vern Tejas climbed the West Buttress alone in February and March, summitted successfully, and descended.<ref name="climbinghistorytimeline">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• 1989: Japanese climbing team of Noboru Yamada, Teruo Saegusa [ja] and Kozo Komatsu died of a presumed fall and exposure while making a winter attempt via the West Buttress route.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• 1990: Anatoli Boukreev climbed the West Rib in 10 hours and 30 mins from the base to the summit, at the time a record for the fastest ascent.<ref name="ABspeed">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• 1995: French skiers Jean-Noel Urban and Nicolas Bonhomme, made the first ski descent down the Wickersham Wall, most of the face was 50°.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref>

• 1997: First successful ascent up the West Fork of Traleika Glacier up to Karstens Ridge beneath Browne Tower. This path was named the "Butte Direct" by the two climbers Jim Wilson and Jim Blow.<ref name="aaj2">Template:Cite journal</ref>Template:Sfn
• 2015: On June 24, a survey team led by Blaine Horner placed two global positioning receivers on the summit to determine the precise position and elevation of the summit. The summit snow depth was measured at Template:Convert. The United States National Geodetic Survey later determined the summit elevation to be Template:Convert.<ref name=ADN/>
• 2019: On June 20, Karl Egloff (Swiss-Ecuadorian) set new speed records for the ascent (7h 40m) and round-trip (11h 44m), starting and returning to a base camp at Template:Convert on the Kahiltna Glacier.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Weather station

File:Mount McKinley and Denali National Park Road 2048px.jpg

The east side viewed from Denali National Park and Preserve, which surrounds the mountain

The Japanese Alpine Club installed a meteorological station on a ridge near the summit of Denali at an elevation of Template:Convert in 1990.<ref name="rozell">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In 1998, this weather station was donated to the International Arctic Research Center at the University of Alaska Fairbanks.<ref name="rozell"/> In June 2002, a weather station was placed at the Template:Convert level. This weather station was designed to transmit data in real-time for use by the climbing public and the science community. Since its establishment, annual upgrades to the equipment have been performed with instrumentation custom built for the extreme weather and altitude conditions. This weather station is the third-highest weather station in the world.<ref name="japantimes">Template:Cite news</ref>

The weather station recorded a temperature of Template:Convert on December 1, 2003. On the previous day of November 30, 2003, a temperature of Template:Convert combined with a wind speed of Template:Convert to produce a North American record windchill of Template:Convert.

Even in July, this weather station has recorded temperatures as low as Template:Convert and windchills as low as Template:Convert.

Historical record

According to the National Park Service, in 1932 the Template:Not a typo-Lindley expedition recovered a self-recording minimum thermometer left near Browne's Tower, at about Template:Convert, on Denali by the Stuck-Karstens party in 1913. The spirit thermometer was calibrated down to Template:Convert, and the lowest recorded temperature was below that point. Harry J. Liek took the thermometer back to Washington, D.C. where it was tested by the United States Weather Bureau and found to be accurate. The lowest temperature that it had recorded was found to be approximately Template:Convert.<ref name="dixon">Template:Cite book</ref> Another thermometer was placed at the Template:Convert level by the U.S. Army Natick Laboratory, and was there from 1950 to 1969. The lowest temperature recorded during that period was also Template:Convert.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Subpeaks and nearby mountains

File:Mount McKinley Shrouded 2048px.jpg

Denali, here shrouded in clouds, is large enough to create its own localized weather

Besides the North Summit mentioned above, other features on the massif which are sometimes included as separate peaks are:

• South Buttress, Template:Convert; mean prominence: Template:Convert
• East Buttress high point, Template:Convert; mean prominence: Template:Convert
• East Buttress, most topographically prominent point, Template:Convert; mean prominence: Template:Convert
• Browne Tower, Template:Convert; mean prominence: Template:Convert

Nearby peaks include:

• Mount Crosson
• Mount Foraker
• Mount Silverthrone
• Mount Hunter
• Mount Huntington
• Mount Dickey
• The Moose's Tooth

Taxonomic honors

File:Ice Sheets on Mt. Denali.jpg

Ice sheets on Denali

• denaliensis
  • Ceratozetella denaliensis (formerly Cyrtozetes denaliensis Behan-Pelletier, 1985) is a species of moss mite in the family Mycobatidae
  • Magnoavipes denaliensis Fiorillo et al., 2011 (literally "bird with large feet found in Denali") is a Magnoavipes ichnospecies of bird footprint from the Upper Cretaceous of Alaska and was a large heron-like bird (as large as a sandhill crane) with three toes and toe pads.
• denali
  • Cosberella denali (Fjellberg, 1985) is a springtail in the genus Cosberella.
  • Proclossiana aphirape denali Klots, 1940 is a Boloria butterfly subspecies in the family Nymphalidae.
  • Symplecta denali (Alexander, 1955) is a species of crane fly in the family Limoniidae.
  • Tipula denali Alexander, 1969 is a species of crane fly in the family Tipulidae.
• denalii
  • Erigeron denalii A. Nelson, 1945 or Denali fleabane is an Erigeron fleabane species.
• mckinleyensis or mackinleyensis
  • Erebia mackinleyensis (Gunder, 1932) or Mt. McKinley alpine is a butterfly species of the subfamily Satyrinae of family Nymphalidae.
  • Oeneis mackinleyensis Dos Passos 1965 or Oeneis mckinleyensis Dos Passos 1949 is a butterfly species of the subfamily Satyrinae of family Nymphalidae (synonym of Oeneis bore)
  • Uredo mckinleyensis Cummins 1952 (sometimes spelled Uredo mackinleyensis) is a rust fungus species.
• others:
  • Papaver mcconnellii Template:Au, synonym Papaver denalii Template:Au, is a poppy species.

In popular culture

• In 2019, American educational animated series Molly of Denali premiered on PBS and CBC Kids. The show depicts the daily life and culture of Molly, a young Alaskan Native girl and vlogger.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="playback2">"PBS Kids orders animated series from Atomic Cartoons" Template:Webarchive. Playback, May 9, 2018.</ref><ref name="cbcupfront2">"Upfronts '18: CBC debuts 17 new series" Template:Webarchive. Playback, May 24, 2018.</ref> The animated series has received acclaim for its representation of Indigenous Alaskan culture.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref name="Peabody">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

See also

• List of mountain peaks of North America
  • List of mountain peaks of the United States
    • List of mountain peaks of Alaska
• List of U.S. states by elevation
• List of the highest major summits of the United States
• List of the most prominent summits of the United States
• List of the most isolated major summits of the United States
• Extremes on Earth

Bibliography

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Further reading

• Template:Cite book Also titled The Rescue Season: The Heroic Story of Parajumpers on the Edge of the World. About the US Air Force's 210th Rescue Squadron during the 1999 climbing season on Denali.

External links

• Mt. McKinley Weather Station
• Denali at SummitPost
• Timeline of Denali climbing history, National Park Service Template:Webarchive
• Template:Gutenberg
• Mount Mckinley Quadrangle Publications, Alaska Division of Geological & Geophysical Surveys