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Solo climbing

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File:Mount Logan Knife ridge, east ridge by Christian Stangl (flickr).jpg
Solo climbing on Mount Logan

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Solo climbing (or soloing) is a style of climbing in which the climber ascends a climbing route alone and deliberately without the assistance of a belayer (or "second"), or being part of any rope team. By its very nature, solo climbing presents a higher degree of risk to the climber as they are entirely relient on their own skills and equipment and any problems may require a self-rescue.

Solo climbing is most common in mountaineering and more laterly in the sub-discipline of alpine climbing. The most dangerous form of solo climbing is free solo climbing, which means both climbing alone and without any form of climbing protection, and was dramatically portrayed in the climbing films, Free Solo (in rock climbing) and The Alpinist (in ice climbing and in alpine climbing).<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>

With climbing protectionEdit

The following types of solo climbing use some form of climbing protection, which typically involves around a mechanical self-locking device (or progress capture/assisted braking device) that — when used properly with a rope and standard protection — reduces the risk of serious or fatal injury to the climber:<ref name=CFS/>

  • Rope solo climbing is climbing alone but with a rope to help arrest a fall, or for a self-rescue if required.<ref name=CFS/><ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Instead of having a belayer, the climber uses a self-locking device that will hold the rope in the case of a fall, and leads the route in a traditional climbing manner, placing climbing protection as they ascend. One end of the rope is anchored below the climber and the climber pays-out the rope through the self-locking device as they ascend. Once they reach the top, they need to abseil down and re-ascend the route with an ascender, to remove the protection they placed earlier.<ref name=Alpinist/>
In 1992, French climber Catherine Destivelle used a self-locking device to rope-solo the first part of the traditional climbing route El Matador Template:Climbing grade, on the Devils Tower in Wyoming (she free soloed the second part), and was captured in the climbing film, Ballade à Devil's Tower.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref> In 1992, Destivelle used rope solo technique to create Voie Destivelle (VI 5.11b A5) on the west face of the Petit Dru, and was captured in the climbing film, 11 Days on the Dru.<ref name=PM5>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In 2016, Pete Whittaker rope-soloed the Template:Convert 35-pitch route Freerider in Yosemite in a single day.<ref name=Alpinist>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

  • Top rope solo climbing is a form of top roping where a single static fixed rope, anchored to the top of the route, is laid along the length of the climb. The climber then clips-into the fixed rope using at least one progress capture device (PCD) such as a Petzl Micro Traxion or a Camp Lift, that will allow the rope to pay-through as the climber ascends but will grip the rope tightly in the event of a fall.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • Auto belay indoor climbing is usually a form of top roping (there are lead auto-belay devices) where the belayer is replaced by a mechanical device fixed the top (or bottom for lead auto-belay) of the route.<ref name=CL20>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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Without climbing protectionEdit

Free solo climbing (sometimes also just called soloing)<ref name=CFS>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> is where the climber uses no climbing protection (or any form of climbing aids), except for climbing shoes and climbing chalk (for a rock-climber) or ice tools (for an ice-climber), to ascend a climbing route.<ref name=CFS/>

Free soloing is the most dramatic soloing-technique and in 2017 became an Oscar-winning documentary film, Free Solo that featured Alex Honnold free soloing the Template:Convert 35-pitch big wall climbing route Freerider in Yosemite, the world's first-ever free solo of a Template:Climbing grade big wall route in history.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

There are a number of sub-classes of free soloing:

  • Deep-water soloing (DWS), is a subtype of free solo climbing performed on rock faces that overhang above water where in the case of a fall, the climber lands in the water.<ref name=CFS/> Extreme deep-water solo routes have falls of over Template:Convert, and thus a risk of serious injury.<ref name=CFS/> Noted DWS climbers include Chris Sharma who created the world's first-ever Template:Climbing grade DWS route, Es Pontàs, in 2007.<ref name=A0>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

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  • FreeBASEing, is a subtype of free solo climbing performed on long multi-pitch big wall routes with a BASE jumping parachute as the sole means of protection, where a falling climber opens their parachute to arrest their fall.<ref name=CFS/> FreeBASEing was pioneered by Dean Potter who made a freeBASE ascent of Deep Blue Sea (5.12+) on the north face of the Eiger in 2008.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

  • Highball bouldering, is where the boulder exceeds Template:Convert in height, and therefore any fall, even where bouldering mats are used, presents a risk of serious injury.<ref name=CFS/> Where highball bouldering ends and free soloing begins is a source of debate amongst climbers.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref> Notable highball boulders include Nalle Hukkataival's Livin' Large Template:Boulder grade in Rocklands, South Africa.<ref>Template:Cite magazine</ref>

|CitationClass=web }}</ref> and Swiss ice climber, Dani Arnold, who has free soloed routes of grade WI7.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Related to this is the activity of mixed climbing free soloing (e.g. using ice climbing equipment on routes that are a combination of ice and rock).

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In filmEdit

A number of notable films have been made focused on solo (and free solo) climbing (on rock and/or on ice) including:<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

GalleryEdit

See alsoEdit

  • Aid climbing, where the climber uses mechanical aids to help ascend a route (i.e. not just for protection)
  • Traditional climbing, which requires the climber to place their climbing protection during the climb
  • Sport climbing, that uses pre-placed bolted climbing protection

ReferencesEdit

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External linksEdit

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