Curry

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Curry is a dish with a sauce or gravy seasoned with spices, mainly derived from the interchange of Indian cuisine with European taste in food, starting with the Portuguese, followed by the Dutch and British, and then thoroughly internationalised. Many dishes that would be described as curries in English are found in the native cuisines of countries in Southeast Asia and East Asia. The English word is derived indirectly from some combination of Dravidian words.<ref name="Online Etym Dict"/>

A first step in the creation of curry was the arrival in India of spicy hot chili peppers, along with other ingredients such as tomatoes and potatoes, part of the Columbian exchange of plants between the Old World and the New World. During the British Raj, Anglo-Indian cuisine developed, leading to Hannah Glasse's 18th century recipe for "currey the India way" in England. Curry was then spread in the 19th century by indentured Indian sugar workers to the Caribbean, and by British traders to Japan. Further exchanges around the world made curry a fully international dish.

Many types of curry exist in different countries. In Southeast Asia, curry often contains a spice paste and coconut milk. In India, the spices are fried in oil or ghee to create a paste; this may be combined with a water-based broth, or sometimes with milk or coconut milk. In China and Korea, curries are based on a commercial curry powder. Curry restaurants outside their native countries often adapt their cuisine to suit local tastes; for instance, Thai restaurants in the West sell red, yellow, and green curries with chili peppers of those colours, often combined with additional spices of the same colours. In Britain, curry has become a national dish, with some types adopted from India, others modified or wholly invented, as with chicken tikka masala, created by British Bangladeshi restaurants in the 20th century.

EtymologyEdit

File:To make a Currey the India Way - Hannah Glasse 1748.jpg
Hannah Glasse's recipe for "currey the India way", first published in her 1747 book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. It is the first known use of the word in English. (The recipe uses the long s, "ſ").

The word 'Curry' is "ultimately derived"<ref name="Online Etym Dict"/> from Dravidian kari in languages such as Middle Tamil.<ref name="Online Etym Dict">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The Oxford Dictionaries suggest an origin specifically from Tamil.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Other Dravidian languages, namely Malayalam (കറി kari, "hot condiments; meats, vegetables"<ref>Template:Cite dictionary</ref>), Middle Kannada and Kodava, have similar words.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Kaṟi is described in a 17th-century Portuguese cookbook<ref name="Taylor 2013"/> who were trading with Tamil merchants along the Coromandel Coast of southeast India, becoming known as a "spice blend ... called kari podi or curry powder".<ref name="Sahni 1980">Template:Cite book</ref> The first appearance in its anglicised form (spelt currey) was in Hannah Glasse's 1747 book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy.<ref name="Online Etym Dict" /><ref name="Taylor 2013">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

The term "curry" is not derived from the name of the curry tree, although some curries do include curry leaves among many other spices.<ref name="NPR 2011">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite book</ref> The cookery writer Pat Chapman noted the similarity of the words Karahi or Kadai, an Indian cooking dish shaped like a wok, without adducing evidence.<ref name="Gopal 2010">Template:Cite book</ref> "Curry" is not related to the word cury in The Forme of Cury,<ref name="Taylor 2013"/> a 1390s English cookbook;<ref>"Thys fourme of cury ys compyled of þe mayster cokes of kyng Richard þe secund ... by assent of Maysters of physik and of phylosophye". Things sweet to taste: selections from the Forme of Cury. 1996 Template:ISBN</ref> that term comes from the Middle French word cuire, meaning 'to cook'.<ref name="Online Etym Dict"/>

Cultural exchangesEdit

Ancient spice trade in AsiaEdit

Austronesian merchants in South East Asia traded spices along marine trade routes between South Asia (primarily the ports on the south eastern coast of India and Sri Lanka) and East Asia as far back as 5000 BCE.<ref name="Manguin2016">Template:Cite book</ref><ref>Template:Cite journal</ref> Archaeological evidence dating to 2600 BCE from Mohenjo-daro suggests the use of mortar and pestle to pound spices including mustard, fennel, cumin, and tamarind pods with which they flavoured food.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Black pepper is native to the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia and has been known to Indian cooking since at least 2000 BCE.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Pepper">Template:Harvnb</ref> The three basic ingredients of the spicy stew were ginger, garlic, and turmeric. Using starch grain analysis, archaeologists identified the residue of these spices in both skeletons and pottery shards from excavations in India, finding that turmeric and ginger were present.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="Lawler 2013">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Sauces in India before Columbus could contain black pepper or long pepper to provide a little heat, but not chili, so they were not spicy hot by modern standards.<ref name="Twilley Graber 2019 transcript">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Early modern tradeEdit

File:Curry's origins.svg
Origin and spread of curry around the world. Mild spices were traded between India and East Asia from 5000 BCE.<ref name="Manguin2016"/> The Columbian Exchange brought chili peppers to India.<ref name="Batsha 2020"/> Anglo-Indian food came to Britain in the 17th century.<ref name="Twilley Graber 2019 transcript"/> The word "curry" was first recorded in print in Hannah Glasse's 1747 English cookery book.<ref name="Online Etym Dict" /> In the 19th century, curry spread to the Caribbean<ref name="Mishan 2017"/> and to Japan,<ref name="Itoh 2011"/> and from there to Chinese people, starting in Singapore.<ref name="Lim 1886"/> Further migration and globalisation (not shown) made curry a fully international dish.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/>

The establishment of the Mughal Empire, in the early 16th century, influenced some curries, especially in the north. Another influence was the establishment of the Portuguese trading centre in Goa in 1510, resulting in the introduction of chili peppers, tomatoes and potatoes to India from the Americas, as a byproduct of the Columbian Exchange.<ref name="Batsha 2020">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The scholar of food culture Lizzie Collingham suggests that the Portuguese in Goa (in West India) heard and adopted words adopted into a local language from the Dravidian words from South India, becoming caril or carree as transcribed by British travellers of the time. This adoption resulting eventually in curry's modern meaning of a dish, often spiced, in a sauce or gravy.<ref name="Twilley Graber 2019">Template:Cite news</ref> In 1598, an English translation of a Dutch book about travel in the East Indies mentioned a "somewhat sour" broth called Carriel, eaten with rice.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/> The later Dutch word {{#invoke:Lang|lang}} was used in the Dutch East Indies from the 19th century; many Indians had by then migrated to Southeast Asia.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/>

British influenceEdit

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File:How Anglo-Indians made Curry.svg
Anglo-Indian cooks created what they called curry by selecting regional ingredients from all over British India using them in Indian dishes from other regions. Lizzie Collingham describes their taste as "eclectic", "pan-Indian", "lacking sophistication", embodying a "passion for garnishes", and forming a "coherent repertoire"; but it was eaten only by the British. Among their creations were kedgeree, and Madras curry, which were served with chutneys, pickles, Bombay duck, and poppadoms.Template:Sfn

Curry was introduced to English cuisine from Anglo-Indian cooking in the 17th century, as spicy sauces were added to plain boiled and cooked meats.Template:Sfn That cuisine was created in the British Raj when British wives or memsahibs instructed Indian cooks on the food they wanted, transforming many dishes in the process.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Anglo-Indian">Template:Harvnb</ref> Further, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, when there were few British women in India, British men often lived with Indian mistresses, acquiring the local customs, language, and food.Template:Sfn Curry was first served in coffee houses in Britain from 1809.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Indian cooks in the 19th century prepared curries for their British masters simplified and adjusted to Anglo-Indian taste. For instance, a quarama from Lucknow contained (among other ingredients) ghee, yoghurt, cream, crushed almonds, cloves, cardamom, and saffron; whereas an 1869 Anglo-Indian quorema or korma, "different in substance as well as name",Template:Sfn had no cream, almonds, or saffron, but it added the then-standard British curry spices, namely coriander, ginger, and black peppercorns.Template:Sfn<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Curry, initially understood as "an unfamiliar set of Indian stews and ragouts",Template:Sfn had become "a dish in its own right, created for the British in India".Template:Sfn Collingham describes the resulting Anglo-Indian cuisine as "eclectic", "pan-Indian", "lacking sophistication", embodying a "passion for garnishes", and forming a "coherent repertoire"; but it was eaten only by the British.Template:Sfn Collingham writes that "The idea of a curry is, in fact, a concept that the Europeans imposed on India's food culture. Indians referred to their different dishes by specific names... But the British lumped all these together under the heading of curry.Template:Sfn

Elsewhere in the 19th century, curry was carried to the Caribbean by Indian indentured workers in the British sugar industry.<ref name="Mishan 2017"/><ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/>

GlobalisationEdit

Since the mid-20th century, curries of many national styles have become popular far from their origins, and increasingly become part of international fusion cuisine.<ref name="Mishan 2017">Template:Cite news</ref> Alan Davidson writes that curry's worldwide extension is a result of the Indian diaspora and globalisation, starting within the British Empire, and followed by economic migrants who brought Indian cuisine to many countries.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry">Template:Harvnb</ref> In 1886, 咖喱 (Gālí) (Chinese pronunciation of "curry") appeared among the Chinese in Singapore.<ref name="Lim 1886">Template:Cite book</ref> Malay Chinese people then most likely brought curry to China.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Curry"/>

In India, spices are always freshly prepared for use in sauces.<ref name="Davidson 2014 Powder">Template:Harvnb</ref> Derived from such mixtures (but not containing curry leaves<ref name="Davidson 2014 Leaves">Template:Harvnb</ref>), curry powder is a ready-prepared spice blend first sold by Indian merchants to European colonial traders. This was commercially available from the late 18th century,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="ChaudhuriStrobel1992">Template:Cite book</ref> with brands such as Crosse & Blackwell and Sharwood's persisting to the present.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> British traders introduced the powder to Meiji era Japan, in the mid-19th century, where it became known as Japanese curry.<ref name="Itoh 2011">Template:Cite news</ref>

TypesEdit

There are many varieties of curry. The choice of spices for each dish in traditional cuisine depends on regional cultural traditions and personal preferences.<ref name="eb">Template:Cite encyclopedia</ref> Such dishes have names such as dopiaza and rogan josh that refer to their ingredients, spicing, and cooking methods.Template:Sfn Outside the Indian subcontinent, a curry is a dish from Southeast Asia which uses coconut milk and spice pastes, and is commonly eaten over rice.<ref name="Van Esterik">Template:Cite book</ref> Curries may contain fish, meat, poultry, or shellfish, either alone or in combination with vegetables. Others are vegetarian. A masala mixture is a combination of dried or dry-roasted spices commonly homemade for some curries.<ref name=eb/>

Dry curries are cooked using small amounts of liquid, which is allowed to evaporate, leaving the other ingredients coated with the spice mixture. Wet curries contain significant amounts of sauce or gravy based on broth, coconut cream or coconut milk, dairy cream or yogurt, or legume purée, sautéed crushed onion, or tomato purée.<ref name=eb/> Curry powder, a commercially prepared mixture of spices marketed in the West, was first exported to Britain in the 18th century when Indian merchants sold a concoction of spices, similar to garam masala, to the British East India Company returning to Britain.<ref name=eb/>

Ways curries can vary<ref name="Dillon 2024"/><ref name=eb/>
Type of variation From To
Mild ↔ Hot   Korma (aromatic spicesTemplate:Efn) Madras (chili)
Watery ↔ Creamy Rogan josh (broth) Korma (yoghurt or cream)
Dry ↔ Wet Tikka (skewered meat, spices) Tikka masala (tomato, cream)
 Sour ↔ Sweet Dopiaza (onion, lemon) Pasanda (almonds, sugar)
 Stir-fry ↔ Simmer Balti (oil, onion, potato) Dhansak (lentils, spices, tomato)

By regionEdit

United KingdomEdit

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File:Chicken Tikka Masala-01.jpg
Chicken tikka masala has been called Britain's national dish.<ref name="Spinks 2005"/>

Curry is very popular in the United Kingdom, with a curry house in nearly every town.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Such is its popularity that it has frequently been called its "adopted national dish".<ref name="Spinks 2005">Template:Cite news</ref> It was estimated that in 2016 there were 12,000 curry houses, employing 100,000 people and with annual combined sales of approximately £4.2 billion.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> The food offered is cooked to British taste, but with increasing demand for authentic Indian styles.<ref name=NYT11415>Template:Cite news</ref> In 2001, chicken tikka masala was described by the British foreign secretary Robin Cook as "a true British national dish, not only because it is the most popular, but because it is a perfect illustration of the way Britain absorbs and adapts external influences."<ref name=Guardian2001>Template:Cite news</ref> Its origin is not certain, but many sources attribute it to British Asians; some cite Glasgow as the city of origin.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="ghosh bb">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> It may derive from butter chicken, popular in the north of India.<ref name="Handbook">Template:Cite book</ref>

Curries in Britain are derived partly from India and partly from invention in local Indian restaurants. They vary from mildly-spiced to extremely hot, with names that are to an extent standardised across the country, but are often unknown in India.<ref name="Dillon 2024">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Range of strengths of British curries<ref name="Dillon 2024"/>
Strength Example Place of origin Date of origin Description
Mild Korma Mughal court, North India 16th century Mild, creamy; may have almond, coconut, or fruit
Medium Madras British Bangladeshi restaurants 1970s Red, spicy with chili powder
Hot Vindaloo British Bangladeshi restaurantsTemplate:Efn 1970s Very spicy with chili peppers and potatoesTemplate:Efn
Extreme Phall British Bangladeshi, Birmingham 20th century High-strength chili pepper e.g. scotch bonnet, habanero

South AsiaEdit

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File:Handi-and-karahi.jpg
Traditional karahi (left) and handi (right) serving dishes

Many Indian dishes are spicy. The spices chosen for a dish are freshly ground and then fried in hot oil or ghee to create a paste.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The content of the dish and style of preparation vary by region.<ref name="Jaffrey 1982"/> The sauces are made with spices including black pepper, cardamom, chili peppers, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, fennel seed, mustard seed, and turmeric.<ref name="Jaffrey 1982"/> As many as 15 spices may be used for a meat curry.<ref name="Jaffrey 1982"/> The spices are sometimes fried whole, sometimes roasted, sometimes ground and mixed into a paste.<ref name="Jaffrey 1982"/> The sauces are eaten with steamed rice or idli rice cakes in south India,<ref name="Jaffrey 1982">Template:Cite book</ref> and breads such as chapatis, roti, and naan in the north.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The popular rogan josh, for example, from Kashmiri cuisine, is a wet dish of lamb with a red gravy coloured by Kashmiri chillies and an extract of the red flowers of the cockscomb plant (mawal).<ref>"Rogan Josh". In Khan Mohammed Sharief Waza, Khan Mohammed Shafi Waza, and Khan Mohammed Rafiq Waza (2007). Wazwaan: Traditional Kashmiri Cuisine. New Delhi: Roli & Janssen. p. 34.</ref> Rice and curry is the staple dish of Sri Lanka.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

East AsiaEdit

Japanese curry is usually eaten as {{#invoke:Lang|lang}} – curry, rice, and often pickled vegetables, served on the same plate and eaten with a spoon, a common lunchtime canteen dish. It is less spicy and seasoned than Indian and Southeast Asian curries, being more of a thick stew than a curry. British people brought curry from the Indian colony back to Britain<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> and introduced it to Japan during the Meiji period (1868 to 1912), after Japan ended its policy of national self-isolation ({{#invoke:Lang|lang}}), and curry in Japan was categorised as a Western dish.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Its spread across the country is attributed to its use in the Japanese Army and Navy which adopted it extensively as convenient field and naval canteen cooking, allowing even conscripts from the remotest countryside to experience the dish. The Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force traditionally have curry every Friday for lunch and many ships have their own recipes.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> The standard Japanese curry contains onions, carrots, potatoes, and sometimes celery, and a meat that is cooked in a large pot. Sometimes grated apples or honey are added for additional sweetness and other vegetables are sometimes used instead.<ref>"The Curry Rice Research". Template:Webarchive (in Japanese)</ref>

Curry spread to other regions of Asia. Curry powder is added to some dishes in the southern part of China. The curry powder sold in Chinese grocery stores is similar to Madras curry powder, but with the addition of star anise and cinnamon.<ref name="Sen2009">Template:Cite book</ref> The former Portuguese colony of Macau has its own culinary traditions and curry dishes, including Galinha à portuguesa ("Portuguese-style chicken") and curry crab. Portuguese sauce is a sauce flavoured with curry and thickened with coconut milk.<ref name="HoustonPTChicken">Template:Cite news</ref>

Curry was popularized in Korean cuisine when Ottogi entered the Korean food industry with an imported curry powder in 1969.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref name="sohn">Template:Cite news</ref> Korean curry powder contains spices including cardamom, chili, cinnamon, and turmeric.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Curry tteokbokki is made of tteok (rice cakes), eomuk (fish cakes), eggs, vegetables, and gochujang, fermented red chili paste. As in India, chilis were brought to Korea by European traders. Spicy chili sauce then replaced the soy sauce formerly used in tteokbokki.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>

Southeast AsiaEdit

In Burmese cuisine, curries are broadly called hin. Burmese curries contains meat simmered in a curry paste containing onion, garlic, shrimp paste, tomato, and turmeric. Burmese curries are often mild, without chili, and somewhat oily.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite book</ref>

Thai curries are called {{#invoke:Lang|lang}}, and usually consist of meat, fish or vegetables in a sauce based on a paste made from chilies, onions or shallots, garlic, and shrimp paste.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> A few stir-fried Thai dishes use {{#invoke:Lang|lang}}, an Indian style curry powder.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In the West, Thai curries are often colour-coded green, yellow, and red, with green usually the mildest, red the hottest. Green curry is flavoured with green chili, coriander, kaffir lime, and basil; yellow, with yellow chili and turmeric; and red, with red chili.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Malaysian Indian cuisine adapted curries (such as {{#invoke:Lang|lang}}, with coconut milk) via the region's Indian population,<ref>Template:Cite journal</ref> but it has become a staple among the Malay and Chinese populations there. Malaysian curries have many varieties, but are often flavoured with cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, coconut milk, shallots, chili peppers, and garlic.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Indian Indonesian cuisine consists of adaptations of authentic dishes from India, as well as original creations inspired by the diverse food culture of Indonesia. Curry in Indonesian is kari and in Javanese, kare. In Indonesian cuisine especially in Bandung, there is a dish called lontong kari, a combined of lontong and beef yellow curry soup.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In Javanese cuisine, kare rajungan, blue swimmer crab curry has become a delicacy of Tuban Regency, East Java.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

In Vietnamese cuisine, influenced by both Thai and Indian cooking, curry is known as cà ri. It is made with coconut milk, Madras curry powder with plenty of turmeric, and a variety of fresh ingredients such as coriander, lemongrass, and ginger.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

In the Philippines, a dish that may have been directly inspired by Indian curries is the oxtail stew {{#invoke:Lang|lang}}, possibly influenced by Sepoy expatriates during the brief British occupation of Manila (1762–1764), or indirectly via Southeast Asian spicy dishes.<ref name="Villar">Template:Cite news</ref> {{#invoke:Lang|lang}} are native dishes using coconut milk,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> which as in the case of Filipino chicken curry can be called 'curries' when curry powder is added.<ref name="pp">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

South AfricaEdit

Curry spread to South Africa with the migration of people from the Indian subcontinent to the region in the colonial era. African curries, Cape Malay curries and Natal curries include the traditional Natal curry, the Durban curry, Bunny chow, and roti rolls. South African curries appear to have been created in both KwaZulu-Natal and the Western Cape, while others developed across the country over the late 20th and early 21st centuries to include ekasi, coloured, and Afrikaner varieties.<ref name="seid">Template:Cite news</ref> Durban has the largest population of Indians outside of India in the world.<ref name="ishay">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Bunny chow or a "set", a South African standard, consists of either lamb, chicken or bean curry poured into a tunnelled-out loaf of bread to be eaten with one's fingers by dipping pieces of the bread into it.<ref name=seid/><ref name=ishay/> 'Bunny chow' means 'Indian food', from Banian, an Indian. The method of serving the curry was created because apartheid forbade black people from eating in Indian restaurants; the loaves could speedily be taken away and eaten in the street.Template:Sfn

See alsoEdit

NotesEdit

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ReferencesEdit

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Further readingEdit

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