Fendi
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Fendi Srl ({{#invoke:IPA|main}}) is an Italian luxury fashion house producing fur, ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, fragrances, eyewear, timepieces and accessories. Founded in Rome in 1925 by fashion designers Edoardo Fendi and Adele Casagrande,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Fendi is known for its fur, fur accessories, and leather goods. Since 2001, Fendi has been part of the "Fashion & Leather Goods" division of the French group LVMH. Its headquarters are in Rome, in the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
HistoryEdit
Early yearsEdit
The house of Fendi was launched in 1925 by Adele and Edoardo Fendi (1904–1954) as a fur and leather shop in Via del Plebiscito, Rome.<ref name="LBM 2012">Template:Cite book</ref> In 1932 Adele and Edoardo Fendi opened a boutique in via Piave; the shop became a popular destination for tourists in Rome.<ref name="corriere">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
In 1946, the five sisters Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda joined the company in its second generation as a family-owned enterprise,<ref name="fragrantica">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> each owning 20 percent.<ref name="nytimes.com">Template:Cite news</ref> Karl Lagerfeld joined Fendi in 1965<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> and became the creative director for the fur and women's ready-to-wear collections (launched in 1977).<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>
In 1966, Lagerfeld created the company logo,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> a double F in a square, which would later be the subject of various reinterpretations. Also in 1966, Fendi presented its first high fashion collection, expanding its interests in the United States and Japan. In 1969, its first commercial line of fur was launched, and in the following years, cosmetics and men's accessories were released. In 1977, Fendi introduced clothing for the first time, its ready-to-wear collection.<ref name="rewind">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
1980s–1990sEdit
In the 1980s, Fendi expanded its range with perfumes in 1985,<ref name="corriere" /> as well as eyewear, jeans, and home furnishings in 1987.<ref name="wwd.com">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
In 1989, Fendi opened its first United States boutique in New York on 5th Avenue.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>
In 1994, Lagerfeld launched the Knicoat collection, a line of wool coats and sweaters designed to be worn together.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Also by 1994, fashion operations were responsible for 90 percent of the firm's total revenue, of which 50 percent came from leather goods and accessories, 20 percent from apparel and 20 percent from furs.<ref name="Fast Forward At Fendi">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> That year, Paola Fendi handed over the presidency of the company to her younger sister Carla.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Silvia Venturini Fendi, daughter of Anna, also joined the fashion house in 1994 and has since been the artistic director for accessories and co-designer of the women's line alongside Lagerfeld; in 1997 she designed the Baguette Bag, an iconic model that beat all sales and notoriety records.<ref name = "rewind" />
Edit
Fendi was a family-controlled company until 1999, when Prada and LVMH, the world's biggest luxury goods group, joined to buy 51 percent of Fendi for $545 million; competitor Gucci lost out in the bidding process.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> Under the deal, Prada and LVMH were obligated to acquire any of the 49 percent of Fendi, should the sisters decide to sell.<ref name="nytimes.com"/> The label lost approximately 20 million euros in 2001 and again in 2002.<ref name="Tracie Rozhon 2003">Template:Cite news</ref> In 2002, Prada agreed to sell its 25.5 percent stake to LVMH for $265 million.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> In 2002, LVMH acquired an additional 15.9 percent of the company.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Carla Fendi, a member of the founding family, continued to act as chairwoman and a minority owner until 2008.<ref name="Tracie Rozhon 2003"/>
On 19 October 2007, Fendi chose the Great Wall of China to present its spring-summer collection and with 88 models, the first fashion show there.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>
In 2009, Silvia Venturini Fendi created the Peekaboo bag, achieving a success comparable to the Baguette Bag.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
2010sEdit
In 2015, Fendi celebrated fifty years of business with Karl Lagerfeld and organized its first haute couture fashion show dedicated to furs, Haute Fourrure, at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées in Paris.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Later the brand celebrated its 90th anniversary with a fashion show at the Trevi fountain in Rome<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> and planned to move its headquarters to Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana,<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> paying 2.8 million euros per annum to occupy the space;<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> Fendi instead opened a hotel and its largest store at the location in 2016.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>
In 2017, Fendi collaborated with Rimowa on an aluminum multiwheel suitcase.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Also in 2017, Fendi released a customization shop in collaboration with e-commerce platform Farfetch for made-to-order handbag designs.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
By 2018, Fendi crossed the 1 billion euro ($1.2 billion) threshold in annual sales<ref name="reuters.com">Template:Cite news</ref> and had 3,000 employees worldwide, including around 400 in specialist leather and fur ateliers in Italy, and operated a network of 215 stores.<ref name="reuters.com"/>
2020sEdit
In September 2020, English designer Kim Jones was announced as artistic director of Fendi's women's collection, formerly occupied by Lagerfeld.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Under his leadership, Fendi collaborated on a clothing collections with Kim Kardashian West's shapewear brand Skims (2021),<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> Versace (2022)<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> and Stefano Pilati (2023).<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
In May 2024, Fendi announced its return to the perfume market with a first collection of seven scents directly inspired by its origins.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
In October 2024, LVMH announced the departure of Kim Jones from Fendi.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> There was no announcement of a successor.
Other activitiesEdit
Diffusion linesEdit
In 1983, Fendi launched the Fendissime diffusion line of furs, ready-to-wear clothing and handbags, then designed by Silvia, Maria Teresa and Federica Fendi.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> From 1987 to 1992, Silvia Venturini Fendi served as the label's designer.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> The Fendissime line closed in 2001.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Other diffusion lines have included Fendi 365, Fendi Country (later Fendi Jeans),<ref name="Fast Forward At Fendi"/> and Fendi Maglia knitwear.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Through licensing agreements, Gruppo Nadini manufactured and distributed several of these lines.
Fendi KidsEdit
The Fendi Kids label made its debut in Spring/Summer 2011.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
FragrancesEdit
All previous Fendi fragrances were removed from the market after the end of the brand's beauty license with Gucci Group's YSL Beauté division in 2005.<ref name="LVMH Pulling Fendi Scent">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
In 2007, Fendi introduced its Fendi Palazzo women's fragrance but stopped selling it in 2009 already.<ref name="LVMH Pulling Fendi Scent"/> In 2010, the brand launched a new fragrance – Fan di Fendi –, the first Fendi scent to be unleashed under LVMH Fragrance Brands, before discontinuing its fragrances in 2015.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In 2024, Fendi unveiled a high-end fragrance collection consisting of seven scents.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
EyewearEdit
From 2013 until 2021, the company had a brand licensing agreement with Safilo for the design, production and worldwide distribution of Fendi sunglasses and optical frames.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>
In 2021, Fendi ended its partnership with Safilo and entered into an agreement with LVMH-owned Thelios to create, produce, and distribute its eyewear collection.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>
Fendi CasaEdit
Fendi started its first line of home furnishings in 1987.<ref name="wwd.com"/> Fendi Casa terminated its collaboration with licensee Luxury Living and instead partnered with Design Holding, jointly controlled by Investindustrial and The Carlyle Group, on creating Fashion Furniture Design (FF Design) to produce and distribute Fendi Casa.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="wwd.com"/>
Real estateEdit
In 2016, Fendi collaborated with the interior designer Fanny Haim on the Fendi Château Residences, a 12-story beachfront condo in Surfside designed by the architecture firm Arquitectonica.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>
Artistic directorsEdit
After 2019 Karl Lagerfeld's direction (1965–2019), Silvia Venturini Fendi took over both the men's and women's collections.
From September 2020, the women's collection was entrusted to Kim Jones, former stylist for the Dior men's collection, who was appointed artistic director of couture and womenswear. Jones' debut collection was for Fall / Winter 2021/2022.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> During his tenure at Fendi, he frequently referenced Lagerfeld's ready-to-wear.<ref name="Kim Jones is Stepping Down at Fendi">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> He left the company in 2024.<ref name="Kim Jones is Stepping Down at Fendi"/>
Silvia Venturini remains artistic director of accessories and menswear.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In 2021 Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Silvia's daughter, was appointed artistic director of jewelry.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
CinemaEdit
Fendi has often collaborated with cinema; the maison has designed the clothes for Once Upon a Time in America, Evita and The Royal Tenenbaums.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Many famous film directors in the 1970s, including Luchino Visconti, Federico Fellini, Franco Zeffirelli, and Mauro Bolognini, chose Fendi furs for their characters.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Fendi has also dressed Sophia Loren, Diana Ross, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Soraya, and Liza Minnelli.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
CampaignsEdit
Lagerfeld himself was responsible for the photography of most of Fendi's ad campaigns before his death; since then, Fendi has worked with Philip-Lorca diCorcia (2001),<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Nick Knight,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Craig McDean<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> and Steven Meisel.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Past campaigns have featured Mark Ronson (2012),<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Catherine Zeta-Jones (2019),<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Zoey Deutch (2020),<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Linda Evangelista (2022),<ref>Vanessa Friedman (10 September 2022), Linda Evangelista, the It Bag and 'Sex and the City' The New York Times.</ref> Naomi Campbell (2023)<ref>Kristopher Fraser (23 March 2023), Naomi Campbell Stars in Fendi's Peekaboo Bag Spring 2023 Campaign Women's Wear Daily.</ref> and Nicholas Galitzine (2023),<ref>Sandra Salibian (13 June 2023), Nicholas Galitzine Named Fendi's First Global Menswear Ambassador Women's Wear Daily.</ref> among others.
PhilanthropyEdit
Heritage restorationEdit
In 2013, Fendi pledged more than 2 million euros to sponsor projects, including a clean-up of the Quattro Fontane<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> and the restoration of the Trevi Fountain in Rome, and held the company's 90th anniversary show over the fountain using a plexiglas floor.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>
In 2019, Fendi committed 2.5 million euros to restore the Temple of Venus and Roma, when it held its couture show at the site.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> By 2021, Fendi completed the temple's restoration.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
In December 2023, Fendi joined the restoration of heritage at Villa d'Este. In partnership with the Villas Adriana and d'Este, Fendi announced its new sponsorship project which consisted in the restoration of the grotto of Diana in the gardens of the Villa d'Este in Tivoli, near Rome.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Visual artsEdit
In 2017, Fendi installed Foglie di Pietra [Leaves of Stone], a sculpture by Giuseppe Penone, in Rome's Largo Goldoni and donated to the city; Fendi committed to maintaining and preserving the monument for 30 years.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Also in 2017, Fendi sponsored the Italian pavilion at the 57th Venice Biennale.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
In 2018, Fendi signed a partnership with the Galleria Borghese to support the museum's exhibitions for the following three years.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Other activitiesEdit
In 2021, Fendi collaborated with a non-profit organization to create a 'charity project' which consisted of designing a kids' unisex T-shirt whose money would be devoted to realize the wishes of kids who suffer from serious sicknesses.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
In 2021 and 2022, Fendi collaborated with the Juilliard School on assigning the Fendi Vanguard Award – including a cash prize and a mentorship program – to four out of Juilliard's final-year students enrolled in the bachelor's, master's and advanced diploma programs.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>
ControversyEdit
Fendi sued Burlington in 1986 for selling counterfeit handbags, and filed a new lawsuit in 2006 after concluding the company was violating the injunction.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> In 2010, a U.S. Magistrate recommended that Burlington pay Fendi just over $5.6 million in damages, attorney's fees and costs to settle a dispute dating to 1986 over the alleged sale of counterfeit Fendi-branded leather goods. Burlington subsequently agreed to pay $10.05 million.<ref name="Jonathan Stempel 2010">Template:Cite news</ref>
Also in 2010, Fendi reached a $2.5 million settlement with the former parent company of Filene's Basement to resolve counterfeiting claims.<ref name="Jonathan Stempel 2010"/>