Eight-thousander

File:Eight Thousanders Map.png

Locations of the world's 14 eight-thousanders, which are split between the Himalayan (right, including Nanga Parbat, left), and the Karakoram mountain ranges (left)

The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than Template:Convert in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone.

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were first summited by expedition climbers in the summer (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first to be summited in winter being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for every three summiters), followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat (one death for every four to five summiters), and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga (one for every six to seven summiters).

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer, became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022. In May 2025, Sirbaz Khan became the first Pakistani to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Issues with false summits (e.g. Cho Oyu, Annapurna I, and Dhaulagiri), or separated dual summits (e.g. Shishapangma and Manaslu), have led to disputed claims of ascents.<ref name=NYT1/> In 2022, after several years of research, a team of experts reported that they could only confirm evidence that three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja, had stood on the true geographic summit of all 14 eight-thousanders.<ref name=Alpinist/>

Climbing history

First ascents

File:Flight over himalaya annotated.jpg

Flight over the Khumbu region; six eight-thousanders are visible

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.<ref name=Mummery1895/>

The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 using expedition climbing techniques as part of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition.<ref name=Herzog1951/> Due to its location in Tibet, Shishapangma was the last eight-thousander to be ascended, which was completed by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964 (Tibet's mountains were closed by China to foreigners until 1978).<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980;<ref>Template:Cite journal</ref> all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders.<ref name=PM5/> The final eight-thousander to be climbed in winter was K2, whose summit was ascended by a 10-person Nepalese team on 16 January 2021.<ref name=tele1>Template:Cite newsTemplate:Cbignore</ref>

Only two climbers have completed more than one first ascent of an eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl (Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak) and Kurt Diemberger (Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri). Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first ascent of one of the eight-thousanders. The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains.<ref name=PM5>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat),<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak), Krzysztof Wielicki (Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse) and Jerzy Kukuczka (Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, and Annapurna I).<ref name=PM5/>

All 14

File:Comparison of highest mountains.svg

Comparison of the heights of the Eight-thousanders (red triangles) with the Seven Summits and Seven Second Summits

File:30 highest peaks with more than 500m prominence.png

The 30–highest peaks in the world with over Template:Cvt in prominence<ref>PEAKBAGGER: World 7200-meter Peaks (Ranked Peaks have 500 meters of Clean Prominence)</ref>

On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat.<ref name=PM5/> Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat that was only repeated by the Swiss Erhard Loretan nine years later in 1995 (Kukuczka had used supplementary oxygen while summiting Everest and on no other eight-thousander<ref name=PM5/>).<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.<ref name="explorersOK">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.<ref name="BBC News">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Template:Ill on 11 May 2017.<ref name="ansa">Template:Cite news</ref><ref name=PM10>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.<ref name=PM10/><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

On 23 May 2023, Nepali guide Kami Rita summitted Everest for the 28th time (a record for Everest), becoming the first-ever person to climb an eight-thousander 38 times.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record of 6 months and 6 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with the use of supplementary oxygen.<ref name=GWR>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name=BBC>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name=NG>Template:Cite magazine</ref> On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a new speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with supplementary oxygen.<ref name="AlanA2023" /><ref name="K2_2023_1" />

Deadliest

citation

CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="economist2013">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Eight thousander	From 1950 to March 2012<ref name="economist2013"/>			Climber death rate <ref name="HDB1">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>Template:Efn
	Total ascentsTemplate:Efn	Total deathsTemplate:Efn	Deaths as % of ascentsTemplate:Efn
Everest	5656	223	3.9%	1.52%
K2	800	96	12%
Lhotse	461	13	2.8%	1.03%
Makalu	361	31	8.6%	1.63%
Cho Oyu	3138	44	1.4%	0.64%
Dhaulagiri I	448	69	15.4%	2.94%
Manaslu	661	65	9.8%	2.77%
Nanga Parbat	335	68	20.3%	–Template:Efn
Annapurna I	191	61	31.9%	4.05%
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)	334	29	8.7%	–Template:Efn
Broad Peak	404	21	5.2%	–Template:Efn
Gasherbrum II	930	21	2.3%	–Template:Efn
Kangchenjunga	243	40	16%	3.00%
Shishapangma	302	25	8.3%

The eight-thousanders are the world's deadliest mountains. The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality (or death rate) is high.<ref name=SIA>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate (i.e. broad and narrow) that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest.<ref name=EBJ/><ref name=MIQ/>

• Broad death rate: The first metric is the ratio of total deathsTemplate:Efn on the mountain to successful climbers summiting over a given period.<ref name=EBJ/> The Guinness Book of World Records uses this metric to name Annapurna I as the deadliest eight-thousander, and the world's deadliest mountain with roughly one person dying for every three people who successfully summit, i.e. a ratio of circa 30%.<ref name=GB>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation

|CitationClass=web }}</ref> Using consistent data from 1950 to 2012, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski (see table) used this metric to show Annapurna is the deadliest mountain (31.9%), followed by K2 (26.5%), Nanga Parbat (20.3%), Dhaulagiri (15.4%) and Kangchenjunga (14.1%).<ref name=EBJ/> Other statistical sources including MountainIQ, used a mix of data periods from 1900 to Spring 2021 but had similar results showing Annapurna still being the deadliest mountain (27.2%), followed by K2 (22.8%), Nanga Parbat (20.75%), Kangchenjunga (15%), and Dhaulagiri (13.5%).<ref name=MIQ>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name=SIA/> Cho Oyu was the safest at 1.4%.<ref name=EBJ/><ref name=MIQ/>

• Narrow death rate: The drawback of the first metric is that it includes the deaths of any support climbers or climbing sherpas that went above base camp in assisting the climb; therefore, rather than being the probability that a climber will die attempting to summit an eight-thousander, it is more akin to the total human cost in getting a climber to the summit.<ref name="HDB1"/> In the Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the climber (or member) "Death Rate" is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp (calculated for 1950 to 2009), and is closer to a true probability of death (see table below).<ref name="HDB1"/> The data is only for the Nepalese Himalaya and therefore does not include K2 or Nanga Parbat.<ref name="HDB1"/> HDB estimates the probability of death for a climber attempting the summit of an eight-thousander is still highest for Annapurna I (4%), followed by Kangchenjunga (3%) and Dhaulagiri (3%); the safest is still Cho Oyu at 0.6%.<ref name="HDB1"/>

The tables from the HDB for eight-thousanders also show that the death rate of climbers for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period, i.e. climbing is becoming safer for the climbers attempting the summit.<ref name="HDB1"/>

List of first ascents

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021).

First ascent and first winter ascent for each of the 14 eight-thousanders<ref name=8000ersGen/><ref name="economist2013"/>

Mountain<ref name=8000ersGen/>				First ascent<ref name=8000ersGen/>		First winter ascent<ref name=8000ersGen/>
Name	Height<ref name="pb">PeakBagger: World 8000–metre Peaks</ref>	Prom.<ref name="pb"/>	Country	Date	Summiter(s)	Date	Summiter(s)
Everest	Template:Convert<ref name="ME">Template:Cite news</ref>	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	29 May 1953Template:Efn	Template:Nowrap Template:Flagicon Template:Flagicon Template:Nowrap on British expeditionTemplate:Efn	17 February 1980	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
K2	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap<ref name="Karakoram">Template:Cite news</ref>	31 July 1954	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap on Italian expedition	16 January 2021<ref name=tele1/>	Template:FlagiconTemplate:Flagicon Nirmal PurjaTemplate:Refn Template:Flagicon Gelje Sherpa Template:Flagicon Mingma David Sherpa Template:Flagicon Mingma Gyalje Sherpa Template:Flagicon Sona Sherpa Template:Flagicon Mingma Tenzi Sherpa Template:Flagicon Pem Chhiri Sherpa Template:Flagicon Dawa Temba Sherpa Template:Flagicon Kili Pemba Sherpa Template:Flagicon Dawa Tenjing Sherpa
Kangchenjunga	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	25 May 1955	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap on British expedition	11 January 1986	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Lhotse	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	18 May 1956	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	31 December 1988	Template:Nowrap
Makalu	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	15 May 1955	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	9 February 2009	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Cho Oyu	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	19 October 1954	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	12 February 1985	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Dhaulagiri I	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap	13 May 1960	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	21 January 1985	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Manaslu	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap	9 May 1956	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	12 January 1984	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Nanga Parbat	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap	3 July 1953	Template:Nowrap on German–Austrian expedition	26 February 2016	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Annapurna I	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap	3 June 1950	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap on French expedition	3 February 1987	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	5 July 1958	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	9 March 2012	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Broad Peak	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	9 June 1957	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	5 March 2013	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Gasherbrum II	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	7 July 1956	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap	2 February 2011	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap
Shishapangma	Template:Convert	Template:Convert	Template:Nowrap	2 May 1964	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap Template:Flagicon Doji Template:Nowrap	14 January 2005	Template:Nowrap Template:Nowrap

List of climbers of all 14

Template:Multiple image There is no single undisputed source or arbitrator for verified ascents of Himalayan eight-thousander peaks.

Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.<ref name=NYT1>Template:Cite news</ref><ref name=AAJ1/>

Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database,<ref name="hdb">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas.<ref name="haw1"/><ref name="haw2"/> Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com,<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.<ref name=NYT1/><ref name=AAJ1/><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Verified ascents

The "No O₂" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

citation

CitationClass=web }}</ref>	Order	Order (No O2)	Name	Period climbing eight-thousanders	Born	Age	Nationality
1	1	Reinhold Messner	1970–1986	1944	42	Template:Flagicon Italian
2		Jerzy Kukuczka	1979–1987	1948	39	Template:Flagicon Polish
3	2	Erhard Loretan	1982–1995	1959	36	Template:Flagicon Swiss
4	<ref>Carlos Carsolio required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988.</ref>	Carlos Carsolio	1985–1996	1962	33	Template:Flagicon Mexican
5		Krzysztof Wielicki	1980–1996	1950	46	Template:Flagicon Polish
6	3	Juanito Oiarzabal	1985–1999	1956	43	Template:Flagicon Spanish
7		Sergio Martini	1983–2000	1949	51	Template:Flagicon Italian
8		Park Young-seok	1993–2001	1963	38	Template:Flagicon Korean
9		Um Hong-gil	1988–2001	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	40	Template:Flagicon Korean
10	4	Alberto Iñurrategi	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1968	33	Template:Flagicon Spanish
11		Han Wang-yong	1994–2003	1966	37	Template:Flagicon Korean
12	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	Ed Viesturs	1989–2005	1959	46	Template:Flagicon American
13	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref> {{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	Silvio Mondinelli	1993–2007	1958	49	Template:Flagicon Italian
14	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	Iván Vallejo	1997–2008	1959	49	Template:Flagicon Ecuadorian
15	8<ref> {{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	Denis Urubko	2000–2009	1973	35	Template:Flagicon Kazakhstani
16		Ralf Dujmovits	1990–2009	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	47	Template:Flagicon German
citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	Veikka Gustafsson	1993–2009	1968	41	Template:Flagicon Finnish
citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>		Andrew Lock	1993–2009	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	48	Template:Flagicon Australian
19	10	João Garcia	1993–2010	1967	43	Template:Flagicon Portuguese
citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>		Piotr Pustelnik	1990–2010	1951	58	Template:Flagicon Polish
citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>		Edurne Pasaban	2001–2010	1973	36	Template:Flagicon Spanish
citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>		Abele Blanc	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1954	56	Template:Flagicon Italian
23		Mingma Sherpa	2000–2011<ref name="8000ers.com"/>	1978	33	Template:Flagicon Nepali
24	11	Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner	1998–2011<ref name="8000ers.com"/>	1970	40	Template:Flagicon Austrian
25		Template:Ill	2001–2011<ref name="8000ers.com"/>	1975	36	Template:Flagicon Kazakhstani
26	12	Maxut Zhumayev	2001–2011<ref name="8000ers.com"/>	1977	34	Template:Flagicon Kazakhstani
27		Template:Ill	2000–2011<ref name="8000ers.com"/>	1961	50	Template:Flagicon Korean
citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	13	Mario Panzeri	1988–2012	1964	48	Template:Flagicon Italian
citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>		Hirotaka Takeuchi [ja]	1995–2012<ref name="nikkei0526"/>	1971	41	Template:Flagicon Japanese
30		Chhang Dawa Sherpa	2001–2013<ref name="8000ers.com"/>	1982	30	Template:Flagicon Nepali
31	14	Kim Chang-ho	2005–2013<ref name="8000ers.com"/>	1970	43	Template:Flagicon Korean
32		Template:Ill	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1968	45	Template:Flagicon Spanish
33	15	Radek Jaroš	1998–2014<ref name="8000ers.com"/>	1964	50	Template:Flagicon Czech
34/35<ref name="meroi">Nives Meroi and Romano Benet climbed all the Eight-thousanders together, it wasn't revealed if one of them climbed the last peak a few moments before the other, thus they share the same position</ref>	16/17<ref name="meroi" />	Nives Meroi	1998–2017<ref name=":0">Template:Cite news</ref><ref name=":1">Template:Cite news</ref>	1961	55	Template:Flagicon Italian
34/35<ref name="meroi" />	16/17<ref name="meroi" />	Template:Ill	1998–2017<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>	1962	55	Template:Flagicon Italian / Template:Flagicon Slovenian
36		Template:Ill	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1964	52	Template:Flagicon Slovak
37	18	Azim Gheychisaz	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1981	37	Template:Flagicon Iranian
38		Ferran Latorre	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1970	46	Template:Flagicon Spanish
39	19	Òscar Cadiach	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1952	64	Template:Flagicon Spanish
40		Kim Mi-gon	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1973	45	Template:Flagicon Korean
41		Sanu Sherpa	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1975	44	Template:Flagicon Nepali
42		Nirmal Purja	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>Template:Efn	1983	36	Template:FlagiconBritishTemplate:R
43		Mingma Gyabu Sherpa	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1989	30	Template:Flagicon Nepali
44		Kim Hong-bin	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="TheKoreaTimes">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="AdventureMountain">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1964	57	Template:Flagicon Korean
45		Nima Gyalzen Sherpa	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1985	37	Template:Flagicon Nepali
46		Dong Hong Juan	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1981	42	Template:Flagicon Chinese
47		Kristin Harila	2021–2023<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1986	37	Template:Flagicon Norwegian
48		Template:Ill	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="RFI">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="Explorersweb_2023_06_26">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="EverestChronicle_2023_06_26">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1968	55	Template:Flagicon Swiss / Template:Flagicon French / Template:Flagicon Canadian
49		Tunç Fındık	2001–2023<ref name="Explorersweb_2023_06_26" /><ref name="EverestChronicle_2023_06_26" />	1972	51	Template:Flagicon Turkish
50		Tenjen Lama Sherpa	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="K2_2023_1">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="Seven Sumit Treks">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>		citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	Template:Flagicon Nepali
51		Gelje Sherpa	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	30	Template:Flagicon Nepali
52		Chris Warner	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1965	58	Template:Flagicon American
53	20	Marco Camandona	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1970	54	Template:Flagicon Italian
54		Naoki Ishikawa	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1977	47	Template:Flagicon Japanese
54		Tracee Metcalfe	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="ImagineNepal_2024_10" />		50<ref name=":2" />	Template:Flagicon American
54		Sirbaz Khan	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="ImagineNepal_2024_10">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1987	37	Template:Flagicon Pakistani
54		Dawa Gyalje Sherpa	?–4 October 2024<ref name="ImagineNepal_2024_10" />			Template:Flagicon Nepali
54	21	Mingma Gyalje Sherpa	?–4 October 2024<ref name="ImagineNepal_2024_10" />			Template:Flagicon Nepali
59	22	Template:Ill	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref> {{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1964	60	Template:Flagicon Italian
59		Naoko Watanabe [ja]	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="yahoo050225">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1981	42	Template:Flagicon Japanese
59		Adrian Laza	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	1963	60	Template:Flagicon Romanian
59		Pasang Nurbu Sherpa	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>			Template:Flagicon Nepali
59		Shehroze Kashif	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	2002	22	Template:Flagicon Pakistani
59		Template:Ill	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="Wspinanie2024_10">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>			Template:Flagicon Polish
59		Adriana Brownlee	2021–9 October 2024<ref name="THT_2024_10" />	2001	23	Template:Flagicon British
59		Nima Rinji Sherpa	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	18	Template:Flagicon Nepali
59		Alasdair McKenzie	2022–9 October 2024<ref name="THT_2024_10" />	2004	20	Template:Flagicon French / Template:Flagicon British
59		Alina Pekova	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>			Template:Flagicon Russian
59		Ko-Erh Tseng	?–9 October 2024<ref name="THT_2024_10" />			Template:Flagicon Taiwanese
70		Mingtemba Sherpa	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>			Template:Flagicon Nepali
71		Tejan Gurung	2022-2024<ref>https://www.si.com/onsi/adventure/mountaineering-feed-page/british-army-veterans-make-mountaineering-history-with-summit-of-shishapangma-</ref><ref>https://www.si.com/onsi/adventure/mountaineering-feed-page/celebrations-held-in-kathmandu-recognizing-nepalis-mountaineers-accomplishments</ref>			Template:Flagicon Nepali / Template:Flagicon British
72		Pasang Tendi	2011-2024<ref>https://www.si.com/onsi/adventure/mountaineering-feed-page/celebrations-held-in-kathmandu-recognizing-nepalis-mountaineers-accomplishments-</ref>			Template:Flagicon Nepali

Disputed ascents

Claims have been made for summiting all 14 peaks for which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent; the disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses in the table below. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered a definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases (e.g. AdventureStats.com).<ref name="haw1">If a mountaineer wants worldwide recognition that they have reached the summit of some of the most formidable mountains in the world, they will need to get the approval of Elizabeth Hawley.{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="haw2">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The Eberhard Jurgalski List is also another important source for independent verification of claims to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.<ref name=NYT1/><ref name=AAJ1/>

Name and details	Period climbing eight-thousanders	Born	Age	Nationality
Template:Ill (Lhotse 1997)<ref name="liz2">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Small	1983–1998	1952	46	Template:Flagicon Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="liz">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Small	1987–2005	1954	53	Template:Flagicon British
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma (West) 2000, Broad Peak 1995<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>)<ref> {{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Small	1993–2004 (deceased)	1953	49	Template:Flagicon Ukrainian
Oh Eun-sun (Kangchenjunga 2009)<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref name="bbc">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>What would appear to be the most serious blow to Miss Oh, on 26 August this year the Korean Alpine Federation, the nation's largest climbing association, concluded that Miss Oh had not reached the top of Kangchenjunga.{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Small<ref name="bbc"/>	1997–2010	1966	44	Template:Flagicon Korean
Template:Ill (Shishapangma 2012)<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Small<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>	2001–2013	1963	50	Template:Flagicon Spanish
citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref> Template:Small	2000–2018	1964	54	Template:Flagicon Chinese

Verification issues

A recurrent problem with verification is the confirmation that the climber reached the true peak of the eight-thousander. Eight-thousanders present unique problems in this regard as they are so infrequently summited, their summits have not yet been exhaustively surveyed, and summiting climbers are often suffering the extreme altitude and weather effects of being in the death zone.<ref name=NYT1/><ref name=AAJ1/>

Cho Oyu for example, is a recurrent problem eight-thousander as its true peak is a small hump about a thirty minutes walk into the large flat summit plateau that lies in the death zone. The true peak is often obscured in very poor weather, and this led to the disputed ascent (per the table above) of British climber, Alan Hinkes (who has refused to re-climb the peak).<ref>I have summited Cho Oyu 4 times and will be heading for my fifth this coming season. Each time I have watched the Koreans and Japanese go only to where they can see Everest, not the summit because they know this is what will be asked.{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref><ref>Many people who climb Cho Oyu in Tibet stop at a set of prayer flags with views of Everest and believe they’ve reached the top, unaware they still have to walk for 15 minutes across the summit plateau until they can see the Gokyo Lakes in Nepal.{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Shishapangma is another problem peak because of its dual summits, which despite being close in height, are up to two hours climbing time apart and require the crossing of an exposed and dangerous snow ridge.<ref name=NYT1/><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> When Hawley judged that Ed Viesturs had not reached the true summit of Shishapangma (which she deduced from his summit photos and interviews), he then re-climbed the mountain to definitively establish his ascent.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref name=NYT1/>

In a May 2021 interview with the New York Times, Jurgalski pointed out further issues with false summits on Annapurna I (a long ridge with multiple summits), Dhaulagiri (misleading false summit metal pole), and Manaslu (additional sharp and dangerous ridge to the true summit, like Shishapangma), noting that of the existing 44 accepted claims (as per the table earlier), at least 7 had serious question marks (these were in addition to the table of disputed ascents), and even noting that "It is possible that no one has ever been on the true summit of all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks".<ref name=NYT1/> In June 2021, Australian climber Damien Gildea wrote an article in the American Alpine Journal on the work that Jurgalski and a team of international experts were doing in this area, including publishing detailed surveys of the problem summits using data from the German Aerospace Center.<ref name=AAJ1>Template:Cite aaj</ref>

In July 2022, Jurgalski posted conclusions of the team's research (the wider team being of Rodolphe Popier and Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database, and Damien Gildea, Federico Bernardi, and Thaneswar Guragai).<ref name="Alpinist" /><ref name="OutsideOnline1">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> According to their analysis, only three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja have stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders, and no female climber had yet done so.<ref name="Alpinist" /> Viesturs is also the first to have done so without the use of oxygen.<ref name="Alpinist" /> Jurgalski allowed for the fact that they had deliberately not stood on the true summit of Kangchenjunga out of religious respect.<ref name="Alpinist">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The team has not formally published their work, and according to Popier, they had not decided about "the best respectful form to present it".<ref name="Alpinist" />

Proposed expansion

In 2012, to relieve capacity pressure and overcrowding on the world's highest mountain, greater restrictions were placed on expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest.<ref name="bbc2">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}Template:Cbignore</ref> To address the growing capacity constraints, Nepal lobbied the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (or UIAA) to reclassify five subsidiary summits (two on Lhotse and three on Kanchenjunga), as standalone eight-thousanders, while Pakistan lobbied for a sixth subsidiary summit (on Broad Peak) as a standalone eight-thousander.<ref name="bbc1">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> See table below for list of all subsidiary summits of eight-thousanders.

In 2012, the UIAA initiated the ARUGA Project, with an aim to see if these six new Template:Cvt-plus peaks could feasibly achieve international recognition.<ref name="bbc1"/> The proposed six new eight-thousander peaks have a topographic prominence above Template:Cvt, but none would meet the wider UIAA prominence threshold of Template:Cvt (the lowest prominence of the existing 14 eight-thousanders is Lhotse, at Template:Convert).<ref name="horr1"/><ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> Critics noted that of the six proposed, only Broad Peak Central, with a prominence of Template:Convert, would even meet the Template:Convert prominence threshold to be a British Isles Marilyn.<ref name="horr1">{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref> The appeal noted the UIAA's 1994 reclassification of Alpine four-thousander peaks used a prominence threshold of Template:Cvt,Template:Efn amongst other criteria; the logic being that if Template:Cvt worked for Template:Cvt summits, then Template:Cvt is proportional for Template:Cvt summits.<ref>{{#invoke:citation/CS1|citation |CitationClass=web }}</ref>

Template:As of, there has been no conclusion by the UIAA and the proposals appear to have been set aside.

citation

CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Proposed new eight-thousander	Height (m)	Prominence (m)	Dominance (Prom / Height) as a %<ref name="ed"/>	citation	CitationClass=web }}</ref>
Broad Peak Central	8011	181	2.26	B2
Kangchenjunga W-Peak (Yalung Kang)	8505	135	1.59	C1
Kangchenjunga S-Peak	8476	116	1.37	C2
Kangchenjunga C-Peak	8473	63	0.74	C2
Lhotse C-Peak I (Lhotse Middle)	8410	65	0.77	C2
Lhotse Shar	8382	72	0.86	C2
K 2 SW-Peak	8580	30	0.35	D1
Lhotse C-Peak II	8372	37	0.44	D1
Everest W-Peak	8296	30	0.36	D1
Yalung Kang Shoulder	8200	40	0.49	D1
Kangchenjunga SE-Peak	8150	30	0.37	D1
K 2 P. 8134 (SW-Ridge)	8134	35	0.43	D1
Annapurna C-Peak	8051	49	0.61	D1
Nanga Parbat S-Peak	8042	30	0.37	D1
Annapurna E-Peak	8026	65	0.81	C2
Shisha Pangma C-Peak	8008	30	0.37	D1
Everest NE-Shoulder	8423	19	0.23	D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle III	8383	13	0.16	D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle III	8327	10	0.12	D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle II	8307	12	0.14	D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle I	8290	10	0.12	D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle II	8282	25	0.30	D2

Gallery

• Everest kalapatthar crop.jpg

  No. 1 – Mount Everest

• K2 2006b.jpg

  No. 2 – K2

• Kangchenjunga.JPG

  No. 3 – Kangchenjunga

• Lhotse-fromChukhungRi.jpg

  No. 4 – Lhotse

• Makalu from Island Peak.jpg

  No. 5 – Makalu

• ChoOyu-fromGokyo.jpg

  No. 6 – Cho Oyu

• DhaulagiriMountain.jos.500pix.jpg

  No. 7 – Dhaulagiri

• Manaslu, from base camp trip.jpg

  No. 8 – Manaslu

• Nanga parbat, Pakistan by gul791.jpg

  No. 9 – Nanga Parbat

• AnnapurnaSouthMountain.jos.500pix.jpg

  No. 10 – Annapurna

• HiddenPeak.jpg

  No. 11 – Gasherbrum I

• 7 15 BroadPeak.jpg

  No. 12 – Broad Peak

• Gasherbrum2.jpg

  No. 13 – Gasherbrum II

• Shishapangma.jpg

  No. 14 – Shishapangma

See also

• List of deaths on eight-thousanders
• List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
• List of ski descents of eight-thousanders
• Three Poles Challenge, the North Pole, the South Pole, and Mount Everest
• Explorers Grand Slam, the North Pole, the South Pole, and the Seven Summits
• Volcanic Seven Summits, the highest volcanos on each continent
• Fourteener, peak with at least 14,000 ft. elevation
• List of mountains by elevation

External links

• 8000ers.com, a site dedicated to statistics on 8000m peaks and climbs
• PeakBagger.com World 8000-meter Peaks, a database of global peaks
• The Himalayan Database, statistics on Nepalese Himalayan (but not Pakistan Himalaya) climbs from 1905 to 2018
• Template:Usurped, a site dedicated to recording adventure statistics
• NASA Earth Observatory: The Eight-Thousanders

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